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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Victoria, B.C. Canada
Posts: 31
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Is there a sequence recommended for removing my radiator. ie. Should I remove the generator, and distributor, and pull rad. back towards the engine, or pull grill and rad out through the front. I'm not sure how the top of the grill emblem is fastened, and I don't want to break it. It looks like the grill needs to be pushed up to disconnect from the rad, but I'm not sure. Any advice would be helpfull. Thankyou, Gary C
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland
Posts: 10,876
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Here is a similar post that was recently on the EFV-8C/A website....
http://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/vie...=18&Topic=5960
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 2,706
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Sounds like a right PITA.. No wonder I gave up and didnt take mine out to flush it.. Let us know how you get on. I asume that a pickup is the same..
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"Came too close to dying to stop living now!" |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: At my kitchen table in Santa Rosa, Ca
Posts: 2,976
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I have to remove the Radiator in my 36 pickup. I am going to take the grill out , one good thing to having a old beater work truck is I don't worry to much about scratching the paint.
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If it would have been a snake it would have bit ya! i can't spell my way out of a paper bag! |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Victoria, B.C. Canada
Posts: 31
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Thankyou for your responses. I found that removing all of the side grill bolts and pulling the rad and grill together, up and out, worked OK. With the over flow boss on the top of the rad, I could only separate the grill from the rad by lifting it up from the rad when both were free of the fenders. I'm having my rad checked out and I have my fingers crossed, that a flush will help, as it keeps on overflowing every time it reaches a water temp of 180 degrees. Are there any after market rads available if I need another? Cheers, Gary C
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#6 |
Senior Member
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Last edited by FlatheadTed; 05-09-2013 at 02:27 AM. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 2,706
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Can you buy a 35 pressurized cap ??
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"Came too close to dying to stop living now!" |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland
Posts: 10,876
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The stock '35 has a non pressurized cooling system. You can make it a low pressure (3-4 psi) system by using one of Skip Haney's overflow check valves on the bottom of the overflow tube. I had a coolant loss problem which quickly turned into an over heating problem with my '35 fordor until I installed one of Skip's valves.
I don't know of any aftermarket radiator that will directly replace an original. Brassworks makes one that looks close based on pictures in their literature. Your best bet might be to have an original radiator record. I am about to try the full strength white vinegar flush on mine to see how that works before leaving on a cross country tour in June.
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 05-09-2013 at 08:23 AM. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
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You can also add a little back pressure wth a catch can .
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