The Ford Barn

Tom - ATL · 03-31-2013, 06:55 PM

Probably been asked before, but could not find it. What is a good coating for New oak wood? What did Henry use? Probably an inexpensive petroleum base product? How about an oil base pain?

Thanks; Tom

Drive Shaft Dave · 03-31-2013, 07:00 PM

I just used oil based exterior paint.

Tom Wesenberg · 03-31-2013, 07:54 PM

Same here, just oil based black paint.

400A-64 · 03-31-2013, 08:08 PM

For all of my SW Sedan top wood, I used 3 coats of tongue oil,letting it dry for two or three days ,paying extra attention to the end cuts. It is great for sealing out moisture.
Bruce Davis

Terry, NJ · 03-31-2013, 08:27 PM

I sealed my wood with two coats of polyurethane and one coat of black paint.
Terry

eagle · 03-31-2013, 09:13 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

My car is original, I believe, and its got a thick black coating on all of the wood. It reminds me of oil base paint without hardener after about 3 days of drying. Its not completely hard, in places where its ran, you can still press your thumbnail into it. If its not original it was done before 1950 because I've documented it back to there. Have a feeling its done drying by now...!

Jim Mason · 03-31-2013, 09:53 PM

the m sheet for 'water repellent black concentrate' calls out Wax, gums, oil, asphaltum as the non volatiles and petroleum sprits and other solvents as the volatiles. the m sheet for 'water repellent black solution calls out 'water repellent black concentrate and special spirits. " the wood parts are to be dipped must be dry, and after dipping in the above solution shall air dry in 30 minutes. I made some up, but never achieved the drying time. It is a thin, (grain of the wood shows through), black covering with a waxy look. rustoleum 'wrought iron black' is a fairly good match.

Mike V. Florida · 03-31-2013, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eagle

My car is original, I believe, and its got a thick black coating on all of the wood. It reminds me of oil base paint without hardener after about 3 days of drying. Its not completely hard, in places where its ran, you can still press your thumbnail into it. If its not original it was done before 1950 because I've documented it back to there. Have a feeling its done drying by now...!

Wolman 1G Woodlife Creocoat Black Wood Preservative seems to be the closest stuff to original sold today. When dry it still had a waxy feel.

H. L. Chauvin · 03-31-2013, 10:27 PM

Original wood on 1930 Town Sedan was & still is in excellent shape.

However, termites & high humidity in this Town Sedan's new location.

From underside, first sanded exposed porous black finish & applied green wood preservative, followed by two (2) coats of POR 15.

Underside of wood is now definitely as hard as steel.

It would probably take a termite a full set of dental root canals, & probably about 50 change outs of tooth caps to eat through the first layer of POR 15, plus about 40 bottles of Pepto-Bismol to digest the PoR 15 -- don't think they could afford all of this at today's prices.

Looks good.

Arlen · 03-31-2013, 10:51 PM

I used min wax black

pat in Santa Cruz · 04-01-2013, 01:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 400A-64

For all of my SW Sedan top wood, I used 3 coats of tongue oil,letting it dry for two or three days ,paying extra attention to the end cuts. It is great for sealing out moisture.
Bruce Davis

so how do you get the slivers out of your tongue after licking all that wood three times?

Tom - ATL · 04-01-2013, 12:10 PM

Thanks to all who answered. Probably will use the Black Exterior Oil Based. Thin it for the first coat or two (so it will penetrate in good) then top coat.

Thanks Again; Tom

400A-64 · 04-01-2013, 12:29 PM

Hey "PAT IN SANTA CRUZ" at my age ...I'm tough all over.... I consider slivers as tooth picks for the few teeth I have left!!!

Dale G. · 04-02-2013, 09:08 AM

Ask Don Turley to post my recipe for Model A wood preservative. Thanks.

Richard Wilson · 04-02-2013, 10:55 AM

Cabot Ebony Wood Stain followed by Minwax Spar Urethane Clear Semigloss.

msmaron · 04-02-2013, 11:24 AM

DP90 AND clear coat

Doug in NJ · 04-02-2013, 05:38 PM

One part Minwax Ebony wood stain, and one part Rustoleum flat black enamel.

Doug

Rich in Tucson · 04-02-2013, 10:22 PM

Just wondering about the often-proposed method of "Thin it for the first coat or two (so it will penetrate in good) then top coat."

Does it really penetrate any better (assuming it is specified for hard wood application in the first place) and where does all that thinning solvent go after it has penetrated when covered by a top coat?

Not being a wood expert, I just ask these questions. I too use Woodlife (a real wood preservative designed by experts) on wood in old cars, to preserve them.

03-31-2013, 06:55 PM	#1
Tom - ATL Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 25	Chassis wood coating Probably been asked before, but could not find it. What is a good coating for New oak wood? What did Henry use? Probably an inexpensive petroleum base product? How about an oil base pain? Thanks; Tom

03-31-2013, 07:00 PM	#2
Drive Shaft Dave Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: New hope Minnesota Posts: 742	Re: Chassis wood coating I just used oil based exterior paint.

03-31-2013, 07:54 PM	#3
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Chassis wood coating Same here, just oil based black paint.

03-31-2013, 08:08 PM	#4
400A-64 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Grass Valley,CA Posts: 295	Re: Chassis wood coating For all of my SW Sedan top wood, I used 3 coats of tongue oil,letting it dry for two or three days ,paying extra attention to the end cuts. It is great for sealing out moisture. Bruce Davis

03-31-2013, 08:27 PM	#5
Terry, NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks Co, Pa Posts: 3,749	Re: Chassis wood coating I sealed my wood with two coats of polyurethane and one coat of black paint. Terry

03-31-2013, 09:13 PM	#6
eagle Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Eagle Bend, MN Posts: 2,081	Re: Chassis wood coating Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) My car is original, I believe, and its got a thick black coating on all of the wood. It reminds me of oil base paint without hardener after about 3 days of drying. Its not completely hard, in places where its ran, you can still press your thumbnail into it. If its not original it was done before 1950 because I've documented it back to there. Have a feeling its done drying by now...!

03-31-2013, 09:53 PM	#7
Jim Mason Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 948	Re: Chassis wood coating the m sheet for 'water repellent black concentrate' calls out Wax, gums, oil, asphaltum as the non volatiles and petroleum sprits and other solvents as the volatiles. the m sheet for 'water repellent black solution calls out 'water repellent black concentrate and special spirits. " the wood parts are to be dipped must be dry, and after dipping in the above solution shall air dry in 30 minutes. I made some up, but never achieved the drying time. It is a thin, (grain of the wood shows through), black covering with a waxy look. rustoleum 'wrought iron black' is a fairly good match. __________________ www.jmodela.coffeecup.com Fwiw, jm.

03-31-2013, 10:27 PM	#9
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: Chassis wood coating Original wood on 1930 Town Sedan was & still is in excellent shape. However, termites & high humidity in this Town Sedan's new location. From underside, first sanded exposed porous black finish & applied green wood preservative, followed by two (2) coats of POR 15. Underside of wood is now definitely as hard as steel. It would probably take a termite a full set of dental root canals, & probably about 50 change outs of tooth caps to eat through the first layer of POR 15, plus about 40 bottles of Pepto-Bismol to digest the PoR 15 -- don't think they could afford all of this at today's prices. Looks good.

03-31-2013, 10:51 PM	#10
Arlen Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 524	Re: Chassis wood coating I used min wax black __________________ DMAFC

04-01-2013, 12:10 PM	#12
Tom - ATL Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 25	Re: Chassis wood coating Thanks to all who answered. Probably will use the Black Exterior Oil Based. Thin it for the first coat or two (so it will penetrate in good) then top coat. Thanks Again; Tom

04-01-2013, 12:29 PM	#13
400A-64 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Grass Valley,CA Posts: 295	Re: Chassis wood coating Hey "PAT IN SANTA CRUZ" at my age ...I'm tough all over.... I consider slivers as tooth picks for the few teeth I have left!!!

04-02-2013, 09:08 AM	#14
Dale G. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 292	Re: Chassis wood coating Ask Don Turley to post my recipe for Model A wood preservative. Thanks.

04-02-2013, 10:55 AM	#15
Richard Wilson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 908	Re: Chassis wood coating Cabot Ebony Wood Stain followed by Minwax Spar Urethane Clear Semigloss.

04-02-2013, 11:24 AM	#16
msmaron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wauconda, IL Posts: 3,604	Re: Chassis wood coating DP90 AND clear coat __________________ A7191-Sport Coupe 29 Roadster 29-Town Sedan 29-Original Special Coupe

04-02-2013, 05:38 PM	#17
Doug in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Princeton, NJ Posts: 966	Re: Chassis wood coating One part Minwax Ebony wood stain, and one part Rustoleum flat black enamel. Doug __________________ My '31 S/W sedan project:http://31ford.dougbraun.com My restoration diary: http://dougbraun.com/blog

04-02-2013, 10:22 PM	#18
Rich in Tucson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 374	Re: Chassis wood coating Just wondering about the often-proposed method of "Thin it for the first coat or two (so it will penetrate in good) then top coat." Does it really penetrate any better (assuming it is specified for hard wood application in the first place) and where does all that thinning solvent go after it has penetrated when covered by a top coat? Not being a wood expert, I just ask these questions. I too use Woodlife (a real wood preservative designed by experts) on wood in old cars, to preserve them.