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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 62
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'30 Coupe. New wiring, altenator, amp meter, coil and battery. Drove perfectly just a couple months ago, now not getting anything electrical! Safety fuse good. Horn and lights work every now and then. Won't crank at all! Starter doesn't even engage. I'm at my wits end. Could bad points be the culprit? Acts as if no electrical power at all.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Redding Cal
Posts: 1,388
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Bad ground? I think 98% of the electrical problems I've had over the years have been bad grounds.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Crete, Illinois
Posts: 306
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The first thing is to check the battery. Cables and all connections. Do you have 6.3 volts or more on the battery? Do we have 6.3 volts at the starter cable on the switch? Are the cells full of water? Did we do a hydrometer test. Batterys can have 6 volts and still not be good. Check these things first, then if thats okay, follow the flow of electricity though out the rest of the circuit. Disconnect the fuse block for test purposes. They are known to not be the best made items. Vibrations causes loose contact and all sort of things seem to be wrong.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma
Posts: 2,411
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You need to get a volt meter and a wireing schematic( like on page 92 in Brattons catalog), and start with battery voltage, and go from there. Are you battery connections clean(post & clamp?) is your ground cable the same, some times old cables have hard to see corrosion, that would act the way you describe. Chuck
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 62
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Thanks guys for your suggestions. I may replace my battery disconnect switch and see how it goes from there. All your other suggestions all check out ok.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,360
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Bob |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 62
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Thks Bob, I will try that. I only thought about changing it because it's a cheaper plastic version and it feels as though it may be broken inside. That may be my mystery electrical problem
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma
Posts: 2,411
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I'm bettin that it!!
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma
Posts: 2,411
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Please let us know what you find.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kalamazoo
Posts: 1,656
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For sure, it's not the points.
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 76
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Regarding the battery cutoff switch, there was an article in the February 2013 Skinned Knuckles magazine about that exact problem. The cutoff is the one that mounts on a battery terminal and has a green plastic handle. Evidently there was a poor contact causing heat to impact how the bolt contacted the parts. The author had to make some changes to the bolt to make it work again so don't assume this part is foolproof.
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 62
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An update guys. I replaced the battery disconnect switch, put new battery cables on and cleaned the crossmember where ground strap goes. Put new bolt on ground strap. Fired right up! Thanks for all your help!
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#13 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 6
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Check the gounds in the car.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 4,610
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I think you should check the grounds on the car.
Was this said already? Joe K
__________________
Shudda kept the horse. |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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POST # 12 SAYS IT'S FIXED ! ! ! !
Paul in CT |
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