The Ford Barn

Rubatoguy · 09-18-2012, 08:26 PM

1st timer at engine removal with hoist.

Do I have to take the engine and transmission out at the same time, or is there a way to remove the engine while leaving the transmission in the car?

I'm looking to do what is easiest.

thanks,
Todd

bogdonj · 09-18-2012, 08:30 PM

some guys remove the engine and tranny as one but I find it easier to just remove the engine if that's all your working on.

jkeesey · 09-18-2012, 08:45 PM

Ive always found it easiest to leave the trans in the car and pull just the engine. Its pretty straight forward on removal pull the flywheel housing bolts and everything on the front and the engine will slide away from the transmission.

ScottNW/Ohio · 09-18-2012, 08:49 PM

My vote would be pull the entire assy (engine and trans together)
It would be less hassle trying to re-install the engine with the trans still in the car and trying to keep it "blocked" in place
Especially if this car is "new to you" you may want to inspect the trans bearing and the universal joint
Just my opinion
Scott

Tom Wesenberg · 09-18-2012, 10:22 PM

I like to leave the tranny in the car and support it on a floor jack, or use a 2 x 4 and ratchet strap to support it.

msmaron · 09-18-2012, 10:59 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Why Tom that looks like the Ole Chipper back in the day!!

Tom Wesenberg · 09-18-2012, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msmaron

Why Tom that looks like the Ole Chipper back in the day!!

Yep, that's the one back in it's not so glory days!

Fred K-OR · 09-19-2012, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottNW/Ohio

My vote would be pull the entire assy (engine and trans together)
It would be less hassle trying to re-install the engine with the trans still in the car and trying to keep it "blocked" in place
Especially if this car is "new to you" you may want to inspect the trans bearing and the universal joint
Just my opinion
Scott

I also vote with Scott. I have only pulled an engine and tranny a couple of times but I prefer to do both.

RonC · 09-19-2012, 05:03 PM

When you reinstall the engine you can open the bell housing access plate, reach in and rotate the transmission spline so the engine will mate.

Jerry Parr WI · 09-19-2012, 05:15 PM

Obviously it can be done both ways. I prefer to pull the engine separately. Pulling them together requires removing the pedal assembly and the trans cover. Then you need to cover the trans to keep out junk. It also leaves you dealing with a larger heaver assembly. I made two heavy wire hooks to hang the transmission from the motor mounts. Serves the same purpose as Tom's 2X4. I also find it easier to reassemble them separately.

jw hash · 09-20-2012, 08:18 AM

I will add one more little tid bit, if you only pull the engine you can leave the head light bar on, the 28-29 that is no big deal but the 30 -31 can be a pain.

TinCup · 09-20-2012, 09:22 AM

For me it depends on what needs to be done. If you have been thru the tranny and ujoint before just pull the motor. If you haven't then pull them as a unit. Make sure you have one of these they make it so much easier.

Head Puller

Tinker · 09-20-2012, 09:38 AM

Tom, Geez, why didn't I think of that! 2x4 and strap, simple and direct. Much better then just the jack alone.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I like to leave the tranny in the car and support it on a floor jack, or use a 2 x 4 and ratchet strap to support it.

walt jones · 09-20-2012, 01:40 PM

Tom's ideas are always good. I varied his approch by threading allthead down on each side into the tansmission top bolt holes. It was long enough to reach up through holes drilled in a two by four mounted across the car just above the transmission. I slid fender washers over the allthread down against the top of the two by four. I then ran nuts down against the washers and used them to for adjustment and support of the transmission.

sturgis 39 · 09-20-2012, 03:07 PM

I have always pulled just the engine. Installing the engine can be hard. The frame, sometimes, needs to be spread so the rear engine mounts will a slide in the frame. This is kind of tough when working alone. I built a frame spreader from some angle iron and placed a Porta Power on the floor.The frame spreader was made out of three pieces of 1/4x2x2 angle. The angles where just bolted together and this provided a hing when the Porta Power was energized.

Last time I installed a Float a Motor mounts from Sacramental Vintage Ford. This made installing the engine a one man operation. No frame spreader was required, just a pin bar for aligning the holes.

I use a lifting eye that screws into the spark plug hole.

wi0v · 09-21-2012, 10:55 AM

I just pulled my engine and had it overhauled. Pulled engine only using a Harbor freight engine leveling bar and two lifts in the #2 and #4 spark plug holes. Held the trans up with a strap and 2x4. When going back in, used all thread about 8 inches long to align the trans to the engine and if you use the two piece crankshaft pulley you can leave the pulley off until you get the engine back in. Took less than an hour working by my self.

Rubatoguy · 09-21-2012, 11:37 AM

At least it will not be a one-man operation. I have a helper!
I will probably just pull the engine as the transmission was recently rebuilt and should be good.

Rubatoguy · 03-11-2013, 03:48 AM

So, I decided to just pull the engine, I removed all the bolts around the flywheel, the front engine mount, and rear engine mount bolts, and gas pedal assembly. I can lift the engine up and down, and I have about a quarter-inch separation between the engine and bellhousing, but I can't get the engine to move forward. (I have the transmission strapped with a 2x4.) I don't want to lift up too much as I don't want to crack anything. It seems the engine should just slide forward, but no luck. Should I try to tap out the rear mounts? Any suggestions?

thanks,
Todd

Mike V. Florida · 03-11-2013, 04:16 AM

Try raising the tranny a bit, I think your shaft is binding.

Dick Deegan · 03-11-2013, 06:45 AM

I use a long pry bar to pry the engine off the tranny, especially from the bottom. Just make sure that everything looks to be lined up before prying. You do not want to bend anything. If you look at videos on U Tube, most show the mechanic using a pry bar.

Good Luck

Dick

09-18-2012, 08:26 PM	#1
Rubatoguy Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Oregon City Posts: 47	Model A Engine Removal from car 1st timer at engine removal with hoist. Do I have to take the engine and transmission out at the same time, or is there a way to remove the engine while leaving the transmission in the car? I'm looking to do what is easiest. thanks, Todd

09-18-2012, 08:45 PM	#3
jkeesey Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Glenmoore Pa Posts: 1,644	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car Ive always found it easiest to leave the trans in the car and pull just the engine. Its pretty straight forward on removal pull the flywheel housing bolts and everything on the front and the engine will slide away from the transmission.

09-18-2012, 10:22 PM	#5
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car I like to leave the tranny in the car and support it on a floor jack, or use a 2 x 4 and ratchet strap to support it.

09-18-2012, 10:59 PM	#6
msmaron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wauconda, IL Posts: 3,604	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Why Tom that looks like the Ole Chipper back in the day!! __________________ A7191-Sport Coupe 29 Roadster 29-Town Sedan 29-Original Special Coupe

09-19-2012, 05:03 PM	#9
RonC Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 1,868	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car When you reinstall the engine you can open the bell housing access plate, reach in and rotate the transmission spline so the engine will mate.

09-18-2012, 08:30 PM	#2
bogdonj Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Walkerton, Ont. Canada Posts: 623	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car some guys remove the engine and tranny as one but I find it easier to just remove the engine if that's all your working on. __________________ _________________________________________ 1931 Ford Model A Tudor 1930 Ford Model A Deluxe Roadster 1930 Ford Original Rolling Chassis- Restoring

09-18-2012, 08:49 PM	#4
ScottNW/Ohio Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Convoy, Ohio Posts: 124	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car My vote would be pull the entire assy (engine and trans together) It would be less hassle trying to re-install the engine with the trans still in the car and trying to keep it "blocked" in place Especially if this car is "new to you" you may want to inspect the trans bearing and the universal joint Just my opinion Scott

09-19-2012, 05:15 PM	#10
Jerry Parr WI Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 619	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car Obviously it can be done both ways. I prefer to pull the engine separately. Pulling them together requires removing the pedal assembly and the trans cover. Then you need to cover the trans to keep out junk. It also leaves you dealing with a larger heaver assembly. I made two heavy wire hooks to hang the transmission from the motor mounts. Serves the same purpose as Tom's 2X4. I also find it easier to reassemble them separately.

09-20-2012, 08:18 AM	#11
jw hash Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auburn Washington Posts: 2,662	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car I will add one more little tid bit, if you only pull the engine you can leave the head light bar on, the 28-29 that is no big deal but the 30 -31 can be a pain.

09-20-2012, 09:22 AM	#12
TinCup Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok. Posts: 1,977	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car For me it depends on what needs to be done. If you have been thru the tranny and ujoint before just pull the motor. If you haven't then pull them as a unit. Make sure you have one of these they make it so much easier. Head Puller __________________ Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group.

09-20-2012, 01:40 PM	#14
walt jones Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kansas City, Mo. Posts: 101	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car Tom's ideas are always good. I varied his approch by threading allthead down on each side into the tansmission top bolt holes. It was long enough to reach up through holes drilled in a two by four mounted across the car just above the transmission. I slid fender washers over the allthread down against the top of the two by four. I then ran nuts down against the washers and used them to for adjustment and support of the transmission. __________________ Walt

09-20-2012, 03:07 PM	#15
sturgis 39 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Lead. South Dakota Posts: 963	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car I have always pulled just the engine. Installing the engine can be hard. The frame, sometimes, needs to be spread so the rear engine mounts will a slide in the frame. This is kind of tough when working alone. I built a frame spreader from some angle iron and placed a Porta Power on the floor.The frame spreader was made out of three pieces of 1/4x2x2 angle. The angles where just bolted together and this provided a hing when the Porta Power was energized. Last time I installed a Float a Motor mounts from Sacramental Vintage Ford. This made installing the engine a one man operation. No frame spreader was required, just a pin bar for aligning the holes. I use a lifting eye that screws into the spark plug hole. __________________ IF IT CAN NOT BE FIXED WITH BLASTING WIRE, JB WELD OR DUCT TAPE ---IT CAN NOT BE FIXED Do not get me started on the stupidity of ethanol. I think one of the monitors is from Iowa and he will delete the thread. Last edited by sturgis 39; 09-20-2012 at 03:12 PM. Reason: made a few changes

09-21-2012, 10:55 AM	#16
wi0v Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Chadron, Nebraska Posts: 135	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car I just pulled my engine and had it overhauled. Pulled engine only using a Harbor freight engine leveling bar and two lifts in the #2 and #4 spark plug holes. Held the trans up with a strap and 2x4. When going back in, used all thread about 8 inches long to align the trans to the engine and if you use the two piece crankshaft pulley you can leave the pulley off until you get the engine back in. Took less than an hour working by my self. __________________ Gary Danford Chadron, Nebraska 816-258-2300 [email protected]

03-11-2013, 03:48 AM	#18
Rubatoguy Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Oregon City Posts: 47	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car So, I decided to just pull the engine, I removed all the bolts around the flywheel, the front engine mount, and rear engine mount bolts, and gas pedal assembly. I can lift the engine up and down, and I have about a quarter-inch separation between the engine and bellhousing, but I can't get the engine to move forward. (I have the transmission strapped with a 2x4.) I don't want to lift up too much as I don't want to crack anything. It seems the engine should just slide forward, but no luck. Should I try to tap out the rear mounts? Any suggestions? thanks, Todd

03-11-2013, 04:16 AM	#19
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florida between Sarasota and TampaSouth Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car Try raising the tranny a bit, I think your shaft is binding. __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

03-11-2013, 06:45 AM	#20
Dick Deegan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 527	Re: Model A Engine Removal from car I use a long pry bar to pry the engine off the tranny, especially from the bottom. Just make sure that everything looks to be lined up before prying. You do not want to bend anything. If you look at videos on U Tube, most show the mechanic using a pry bar. Good Luck Dick