Correct Fender Welting

[BadgerA]

I know this has been discussed in the past,,, but here goes anyway. I am trying to determine the most accurate fender welting to original. I know a lot of people like the product made by Roy Nacewicz,,, but have been told by more than one respected model a restorer that the original welting did not have either the finish or pattern he uses. Instead, it was stated that the original was smoother and shinier. It was said that his reproduction would be more accurate to cars later in the 30s. Again, I am going for accuracy. What say ye?

[Mike V. Florida]

This is from a previous post from Rusty Nelson;

Roy Nacewicz. He said the welting he sells is very close to what was originally used. Below is what it says in his catalog:

FENDER WELTING-our own reproduction of original Ford Pyroxylin cloth covered, paper twine-filled fender welting. This is machine sewn, in house, utilizing original materials. The “Box grain” generated on the pyroxilyn cloth is unique to our product. All other welting on the market is produced from extruded vinyl and therefore the “box” pattern is not achievable. Our material is produced on one of the original tools used by one of Ford’s primary suppliers. Likewise, the twisted paper core is still produced for us by an original Ford supplier.

[Arlen]

Roy is who I use. As for shine, remember the welting gets painted so you decide on the shine by what paint you use. Www.fordbolts.com

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Arlen

Roy is who I use. As for shine, remember the welting gets painted so you decide on the shine by what paint you use. Www.fordbolts.com

I was of the opinion the majority of the welting really does not get painted on most A's. Based on what I have researched, the original welting was not sewn originally and the paper core was rolled, and I do not believe Roy's core is the same diameter based on some original samples I have.

If we are speaking of Fine-point adjudication, the standard mindset with the judges seems to be that if it is totally undistinguishable from original, then it should not receive any deductions. There is a HOWEVER, in that the practice in recent years seems to follow the pattern that if the item is a reproduction, then it receives a 50% deduction (50% of 5 points on welting) ...and then they will look at Craftsmanship (the installation) and deduct further from there if they feel it is needed. The mindset used to be that if the Restorer made an attempt to modify any reproduction part to more closely resemble the original item, then some "credit" was given towards the 50% deduction. I do not find that practice is carried out much in adjudication these days. Again, the attitude is the reproduction item must be exactly like the originally manufactured piece, or it is to be scored as a reproduction piece which receives the major point deduction.

.

[BadgerA]

Interesting input Brent. Your opinion closely matches that of two other restorers I have been in contact with including a FP judge. As I am putting together a car for FP judging, this is the thrust of my question. For a nice driver, Roy's welting seems very nice. However, my sources tell me that it does not pass muster in FP judging. I have some older welting that is more of of a smooth texture, larger core, and shinier black color and was told that this was much closer to original. Again, since I do not want to be "gigged" for a repro part, I am looking for opinions on what is correct for this item. I have not been able to locate any original welting as of yet,,, so am looking at alternatives as a fall back position.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by BadgerA

Interesting input Brent. Your opinion closely matches that of two other restorers I have been in contact with including a FP judge. As I am putting together a car for FP judging, this is the thrust of my question. For a nice driver, Roy's welting seems very nice. However, my sources tell me that it does not pass muster in FP judging. I have some older welting that is more of of a smooth texture, larger core, and shinier black color and was told that this was much closer to original. Again, since I do not want to be "gigged" for a repro part, I am looking for opinions on what is correct for this item. I have not been able to locate any original welting as of yet,,, so am looking at alternatives as a fall back position.

While I really did NOT want to engage in a debate about right/wrong with fine-point judging, ...my point is even if yours is "much closer" to original than anyone else's, I am finding most teams will make the call that it is still NOT exactly like original and therefore it is a reproduction part, and as such will receive 50% off. So I guess it boils down to do you want to replicate something that exactly mimicks the original welt, --or are you willing to lose the 2½ points out of the 500 points and just use your current welting or Roy's welt??

BTW, in your defense I might add this if it will make you feel better. Although it has been awhile since I judged Sheetmetal, as I recall all the Stds instructs the Judge to evaluate on that it is a lacquered cloth with a paper core (-which Roy's or your present welting is). It really does not instruct the judge to verify the shininess of the welt, nor the exact diameter, or the pattern on that lacquered cloth. Controvercial, I know.

.

[d.j. moordigian]

Well.....how about this Brent...Badger?

...........Fender welt...is this correct?...............