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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 11
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Hello All:
Have two questions that have stumped me so I thought I would post them here in the hope some can point me in the right direction. I have used various searches on the forums but haven't found any previous posts on either of these two questions, so here goes: Question #1: As part of the process of replacing the floorboards in my 1929 Model A Town Sedan, I bought the floorboard irons which came with a set of 8 rivets, 4 for each iron. I have attached a photograph of the rivets. I have never installed a rivet like this before. And after searching the net, have yet to find any helpful information. Can anyone point me in the right direction on how to correctly install these rivets. Question #2: I have successfully installed the felt window channel guides on both sides of the driver's side door. The kit I purchased from Synder's includes a rubber channel for the top. However, in researching this, I have found reference (which for the life of me I can't seem to find again) to a metal channel into which the rubber channel is placed (I presumed glued). I have attached a picture of the driver's side door and the area where I believe the metal channel should be placed. Progress on the car is moving ahead slow but sure. It is nice not being in a rush to get this done, am really enjoying the process of restoration. Thanks for any information you might be able to provide. Tom L. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Washington
Posts: 2,662
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#1 if you have a bratton`s catalog it shows you where to install the bars and how to install the rivets, they are barrel rivet and it take a rivet tool to fair the end of the rivet. they come in diffrent sizes, if you belong to a Model A club in your area the club should have one.
#2 just glue the rubber up inside the opening and roll your window up to hold it inplace until the glue dries, |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 619
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#1: I just finished a floorboard set. The rivets should be tubular type like a brake lining rivet only longer. I set mine with a small hand rivet tool from the hardware store. Worked great. The rivets should be installed with the head against the wood and the set end against the iron. Back the rivet heads solidly so they are firmly supported while setting them.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,099
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The punches on the left are hand punches for tubular/semi-tubular rivets. The small one is for 9/64" rivets used commonly on the body and hood. The larger one is 3/16" (if I recall correctly) for floorboard rivets.
The original upper window seal was moulded or vulcanized to a metal strip which held it's shape and made for easier installation. Without that strip the rubber is about as stable as a strand of cooked spaghetti and will conform to every irregularity in the base you are attaching it to. For best results it's helpful to first attach cardboard shims where there is no door skin to level the surface over it's entire length. Attach the rubber with contact cement or weatherstrip adhesive. ![]()
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#5 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 11
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Tom L. |
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