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#1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Washington State
Posts: 45
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Need some help on the mounting holes in the rear subframe. My body panels (both sides) were rotted out along the bottom. I trimmed and welded on new metal, but the holes in the subframe for mounting the panels I don't know if there are extra holes. Note the three small holes in a triangle at the 21" mark. There are several rivets that along the subframe that don't do anything, don't know if i should drill them out for fasteners or not.
A picture of existing installation showing fastener pattern would be great. I put the tape measure on so if no one has pictures maybe they could give me some reference measurements for fastener locations. And I can weld up any unnecessary holes. I burned the first inch, so ya have to take that into consideration (that's a habit of mine). Thanx for any help on this. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Upper Peninsula Michigan
Posts: 142
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Don’t know if these photos help you but this is the crumbling mess I had found.
Patched in a large section of sub rails to repair. I am past all that now and is getting to final paint soon. Stay at it, slow and steady and you will get there. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Upper Peninsula Michigan
Posts: 142
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Me Again, I believe those holes and/or rivets at your 5,7,9,10,13 and 28 tape locations are for the rivet locations to attach wheel well sheet metal. The three triangular grouped holes are a mystery to me. What is also puzzling is yours has no offset or step in sub rail as shown in my photo. My Phaeton is a late ‘29 and perhaps there were changes made in this area.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: May 2023
Location: Washington State
Posts: 45
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I removed the paint from the previous work and found only rivets were the two for the subframe cross member. Those two rivets are missing on the other side. I'm going to just leave the three holes arranged in a triangle, maybe I'll find out later about that. I'll just put fasteners in the open holes that I have in the subframe and install rivets in the two missing crossmember. keep driving on. I do thank you for the pictures; also I have two patch panel for the area, but didn't use them as they were way to light weight of gage metal. Used raw flat stock steel.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Upper Peninsula Michigan
Posts: 142
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I recycled rusted splash apron steel for the patches (same gage). I formed the patch panels in a vice as best as I could and MIG welded. Actually didn’t turn out too bad. Not going to be a points car or concourse but will look respectable. Body was stripped and is in high build primer now. On to filler and block sanding.
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#6 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2025
Posts: 3
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