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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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i AM A lone repairman, a simple task like attempting to bolt a starter back into a car is a nightmare for a solo repairman. It would take one man to line the starter up with the holes and another person to screw the bolts in. If I could only get ONE bolt in then alignment with the other 2 holes should be easy. Any suggestions or do I have to ask my wife to help? OH NO, NOT THAT.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Buchanan, MI
Posts: 697
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Put a stud in the top hole & then the starter will support itself.
A stud could be a bolt with the head cut off. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,638
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Unless, of course, if you have one of the "new style" starter drives that sometimes just won't fit unless you do a little clearancing and grinding. If it is enclosed in a sheet metal housing, it's probably a new style.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 1,681
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If you are working from underneath the vehicle and just can't support the starter with one arm while attempting to begin one bolt ..... try propping up the starter with a stack of wood or old books or milk crate to get it right up there, make certain it is not going to fall over on you!
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1928 "A" Phaeton (mid year with many early features) 1933 "V8" Closed-Cab Pickup Truck (originally a Model B, 4 Cylinder dating to May, 1933)
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SoCal-Redlands
Posts: 3,413
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Quote:
The new style enclosed Bendix can be a PITA to install in a flathead V8. Not sure if the same applies to a 4 banger like the OP has.
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Making the simple complicated for over 30 years. |
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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![]() Quote:
I added a net to each stud and was able to fasten the starter in place. Then with it held in place I remove one stud at a time replacing it with the proper bolt. This way everything was completely lined up. Fantastic. I set aside this set of starter studs and nuts if I have to remove the start again. Thanks a million for your great idea. |
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Paducah Ky
Posts: 357
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I'm surprised that no one has mentioned using a transmission jack to position the starter in place while attaching the bolts. One is something like a floor jack, with a platform for leveling your workpiece.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Chicago
Posts: 926
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Or the scissor jack from your daily driver?
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#11 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Buchanan, MI
Posts: 697
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![]() Quote:
This may work on a v8- but the OP was asking about a 4 cylinder starter . When an early V8er can't hold a starter in place to start the fasteners, maybe it's time to hire it out. Last edited by 42merc; 07-03-2024 at 05:48 PM. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,601
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A jack would be of no help if the left hand engine splash pan is in place.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kerrville, Tx
Posts: 2,879
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Took some tape and made alignment marks on the starter and pan. Not as good as the long studs but it worked fine for me.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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The jack is also a great idea, never thought of it, I am really getting old, will be 75 by the end of this month.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 36 miles north of Albany NY
Posts: 3,198
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About 20 years ago I started keeping the scissor jacks from the cars I sold or traded in, and I have a few I modify for specific tasks.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Paducah Ky
Posts: 357
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The RV which I recently sold had a basement ac unit. I had to use a motorcycle jack to wrestle that thing in and out more than once. The proper tool Makes a hard job doable. Especially with me being 78 now.
Al Hook |
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