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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,009
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Is it true that there is a dead spot on the starter, away from the brushes?
Does the Bendix sometimes stick? Would a Wack with a rubber hammer loosen the Bendix and manually cranking the engine rotate the starter to a more favorable location? 1933 Model 4 ford |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,195
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Take the cover band off and rotate the commutator with a stick , look at the surface of the commutator where the brushes rub, it should look even all around .
Sometimes the commutator wears in a localized area. If you see a burned area between a couple segments it could mean the commutator connection to the windings is bad. If the starter is mechanically jamming the bendix there could be worn teeth on the ring gear or bendix sometimes whacking the starter jiggles sticking brushes It’s easier to look if you remove the starter, then you can easily spin the starter shaft by hand and watch the brushes, if they move up- down as you rotate the shaft the commutator is not true and can cause a dead spot |
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#3 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wa.
Posts: 5,423
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A gear drive starter eliminates all of those problems.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Location: Nordland, WA
Posts: 43
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I had a car many years ago that would not crank at all, and then it would crank just fine. I finally found that the armature when in a certain position would be shorted.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Dighton, Mass
Posts: 1,231
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don't overlook the solonoid may have corroded contacts put a test light on the starter cable if it lights its the starter most likely the mica needs to be cut
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,805
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Too much, then have the starter removed and rebuilt tell the rebuilder not to repaint if you want to keep the petina. Last edited by Terry,OH; 03-10-2024 at 11:04 AM. |
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