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Old 10-25-2015, 04:05 PM   #1
Fred K-OR
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
Default Am learning a bit about how to rebuild a carburetor.

For those of you that know how to effectively rebuild a carburetor, skip this dissertation on how I messed up trying to rebuild one.

To start this, I had an extra carb that I had used on my coupe that worked OK except when I would come up to a stop the engine would die. I know this problem has been discussed many times on the old Barn.

But I will add my experiences with this problem with the hope that someone as ignorant as I am about rebuilding carbs may gain some helpful information.

First of all I ordered all new parts from Bratton's for the old carb. I figured I had a quality vendor for parts so that without all the testing equipment I would not have to do testing of parts. BTW this assumption worked OK-their parts were great. Then I thought I would make things look "Professional" so I went down to the parts store and bought a gallon of carb cleaner. Cleaned up the carb and painted it the way it should be painted. Blew out all passages, used paperclips to check them out and reassembled it. I did put in a "ball" type float valve rather that the original type. Thinking here with the ball type it may raise the height of the float. (common solution for engine die at stop). Reassembled carb with one washer under float valve (like before), checked the 1 inch required for the float valve which was right on and installed the carb on the coupe. Started it up and it ran like it has never run before!

So took it out of the shop, warmed it up a bit and went down the driveway and slammed on the brakes. Great it did not die! Problem fixed (I thought).

Went back to the shop and parked it there. Took the old carb I had just taken off and took it all apart. Thought I may as well tune it up also. While working on the old carb I kept hearing this noise that sounded like a "clicking" sound. Just thought it was the electric fence charger I had on the wall. Well after a half hour or so I went back to the coupe and found what the clicking noise was. It was gas dripping from the "new" carb on the piece of cardboard I had under the coupe. What a puddle of gas!

Checked to see where the gas was coming from and it seemed like it was coming out of the little hole in the choke area. Took the "new" carb off again, went to the bench, put another washer under the float valve to lower it, (BTW it now measured more that the one inch it was suppose to be) put it back together and installed it back on the coupe. Started it up and the old coupe would run for a little while and then quit. Pulled the choke and it would run for a little more and then quit. Then I thought I needed to pull the carb again and see what was wrong now. Well as I was taking the carb off the manifold, I felt the gasket between the carb and manifold was sticking out the back-I had not put the gasket between the carb and the manifold on one of the bolts-shows my mechanical skills. Reinstalled that bolt and gasket the way it was supposed to be installed and bolted it back on. Took the old coupe out to test it at a stop and it worked great without killing the engine and also had no gas leak in the carb.

Well the points of all the these words are:

1. It does make a difference what the float level is in the carb to stop the gas from leaking out the choke hole and to keep the engine from killing at a stop. I still need to road test it to see how things work. I may still have to adjust the height of the float level.

2. Check your work-don't be as sloppy as I am in doing mechanical work.

Hope I did not bore you to much and maybe helped some non mechanical person like me to try to solve a carb problem.
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Fred Kroon
1929 Std Coupe
1929 Huckster
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