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#1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 134
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On a previous thread I had asked about Base coat/clearcoat and single stage/urethane.The consensus on the forum was Single stage/urethane for the fenders,aprons etc.
My body guy says use Base coat/clear coat for all the lower black because it is easier to repair damage.My question...What if anything is the down side to using Base coat/clear coat for all the lower parts?? Thanks. |
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#2 |
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Seems to me if you have a "professional body man' providing advice he would know more then folks on the chat. I used clear.base for the entire A I painted last. Its theone in my avatar.
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: South East NJ
Posts: 3,398
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The question is how close to factory do you want the patina.
The original paints were not the super wet gloss you find on todays BC/CC paints. Quite frankly, the cars do not look right with the BC/CC. They are just super wet all the time and look out of time. This is from someone who has seen original type paints so I know. Single stage paints can be buffed some to cut down the gloss look and get closer to the original patina of a factory car. I would recommend that you look at a BC/CC car vs single stage and decide for yourself what you would like. It is your car and you have to be happy with what it looks like. |
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: inside your RAM
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flattening agents are available if you don't like the gloss of clear coat. But a quality clear will protect the car better than a run-of-the-mill single stage, unless you get PPG Concept, a very high quality product. We will not use a clear other than PPG 2021. If someone doesn't like the cost of that superior product they will have to get someone else to paint for them. I have seen cheaper clears peel right off the car in big sheets
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'31 180A |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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The body man suggested BC/CC for the reason of easier damage repair. I live in an area where this kind of work isn't done any more. The replies on the Forum were valuable in the sense that some of those responding had more personnel experience than myself and there's the matter of trying to avoid a costly mistake. Thanks for your reply.
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
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#7 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 134
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I've looked at other cars. Most are BC/CC and the high gloss of it doesn't bother me although I do see your point on originality. Fenders and other lower body panels generally suffer the most abuse so in order to avoid expensive repairs due to single stage/urethane just use BC/CC if there was no downside ,such as ,poor durability. Thanks for your reply.
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#8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 134
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Do you think that BC/CC is less durable or prone to other problems that SS/URETHANE is not? Is bc/cc easier and less expensive to repair?Thanks.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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I do insist on the best materials and your post will be helpful. I'm just temporarily stuck on the process.Thanks
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
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you can also do some internet searches like this one
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236543 |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: South Coast NSW Australia
Posts: 2,596
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An A is a lot of single panels, so the idea that a BC/CC is easier to touch up is flawed.
Yes, on a modern car where the roof and quarters may all be one joined panel, and just a part of a quarter panel is to be touched up, then yes , clear coat is easier. But if you buy extra paint and have the correct colour over, a single stage is just as easy, as I doubt if any body man would blend a clear coat over such a small single panel as are on A/s. But, the catch is, you have to have the right colour match so you spray an entire fender or half a hood or a door etc. I doubt you would ever need to touch up a car by spray that is a toy, unless you had accident damage . A single stage with a paint chip is dead easy to fill and that is all you will probably ever need. I would not like to try and blend a single stage so having the correct left over colour is imperative. |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: lexington sc
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I agree with mitch the shinier the better when I paint my 30 tudor I will be using a high solid clear for the shine that lasts I am not doing a points car a driver and want to stand out
kevin 1930 model a tudor 1923 model t roadster p/u |
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Washington
Posts: 2,662
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if you go with BC/CC and you damage a panel, yes you can blend the color BUT you will pretty much need to clear coat the whole panel. I go with single stage for all the lower black. it works good for me. and it holds up good.
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#14 |
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There is shiney and then there is looking wet. I can't find it now but someone posted the percent shine and even an assembly line photo showing the reflection.
As for ease of repairability, what are we looking at? Are we looking at a scratch in the clear coat alone, does the scratch go through to the primer? Sure a clear coat scratch and the single stage scratch can be buffed out equally as easy. The scratch in the color to the prime has the problem of color matching for each, but the BC/CC also needs the CC sprayed again, two separate actions, paint, and labor.
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#15 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 134
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Thank you all for taking the time to give your thoughts on this issue.Your help is greatly appreciated!
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