Radiator baffle?

[SteveM]

I have heard of a baffle in the upper radiator or filler neck to prevent coolant from going out the overflow pipe due to velocity from the water pump.

I don't see anything in mine - I can see the tubes through the filler neck.

If I add coolant to cover the tubes, I get overflow, so I'm guessing that it's from the speed of the pump.

I don't see a radiator baffle in the parts catalogs. Am I missing something and can I make / install one without dismantling the radiator?

Steve
1931 Deluxe Coupe

[Mike V. Florida]

I don't think you would be able to make one and fit it into the neck of the radiator and then position so the overflow tube goes through the top.

Each car seems to like a certain water level. If it is a real concern to you try this;

Fill it so it just covers the tubes.
Drive it for a set number of miles, say 25. That should be more than enough to get it up to temp and then some.
Measure the amount of water it takes to fill it to just over the tubes again.
Drive it again for the same number of miles.
Measure the amount of water it takes to fill it again.

If it only takes a pint or two, it's ok in my book. If it takes more then try this;

Bend the overflow tube towards the back of the radiator (towards the firewall). You may also go to a hobby shop for some model fuel tubing and put it over the overflow tubing and up under the cap.

[BCCHOPIT]

you have to cut the top tank off and find a good one from a junk tank and put it all back together. or bring all the parts to a good radiator shop. they can clean all your tube at the same time.

[Jack '29 Sport Coupe]

I agree with everything Mike says. On mine, if I can't see the water, I check it with a battery filler. If I can suck water up when I squeeze the bulb, it's ok. If not, I "sip" water in a little at a time until the battery filler sucks up the water. I hold the filler at a slight angle to get the tube all the way in. Ever since I started doing this, the overflow problems stopped. If I can easily see water in the radiator on my coupe, it will overflow just as sure as God made little green apples!

Jack

[Tom Wesenberg]

I lost 2 to 3 quarts of coolant for every 50 mile run until I installed a thermostat a year ago. Now I haven't added any since then. I run 50/50 antifreeze year round.

[Ed Northrop]

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My car was missing the baffle I took mine to a good radiator shop they removed top tank cleaned tubes and made a new baffle.

[Mike V. Florida]

Here is more info from Marco.

[Bob A.]

Besides doing what Tom said, I would try to move (by bending) the overflow tube toward the fan side of the radiator. I did this by slipping a narrow Phillips screw driver in the tube and gently pushing it back. In addition, you can slip a small piece of rubber hose on the tube to raise it up a bit.

[SteveM]

Thanks guys. I'll try bending it back and extending it (and maybe the washer trick while I'm in there).

Steve

[Larry Seemann]

Steve, If you don't have a baffle you can make one from a short piece of kitchen sink drain pipe - the type that is chrome plated thin brass. Just find one that is the same diameter as the rad neck then cut a length the depth of the neck down to the core. Then drill a hole in the side to slip over the overflow tube. When you slide the pipe down into the neck with the overflow sticking up inside the pipe the water from the pump just hits the pipe and flows around it and onto the core. Serves the same purpose as the factory baffle. Cheap, easy to make, and out of sight.

[Ron/IA]

Larry - Thank you for the discription using the a sink drain pipe. I knew there was a way, but never seen anyone publish it.

I have a question: Would the pipe be resting on top of the radiator core, and would I need to worry about it rubbing against it?

Thanks,

[TinCup]

I had this same issue when I first got my A and tried some of the same procedures mentioned here. Right up until I tried to move the overflow for the last time and it broke off. So off to Homers Radiator Shop here in OKC and a baffle and a little repair later all was well with the world. That was 4 years ago. Sure could have used Marco's diagram then.

[msmaron]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I lost 2 to 3 quarts of coolant for every 50 mile run until I installed a thermostat a year ago. Now I haven't added any since then. I run 50/50 antifreeze year round.

TOM ;..dont you think that is a patch and should really not be needed?

[30Tudor]

After trying to find the right level of fluid in my radiator and after watching my fellow club members spew gallons of glycol onto the road during tours, I decided to try putting a coolant recovery system on my car. This set-up works fabulously and cost me less than $20.00. The following is an excerpt from an article that I wrote for our club magazine.

Here is what you need:

• 1 coolant recovery bottle (eg. Dorman 603-001)
• Approximately 6 ft of 5/16” rubber fuel line – don’t be cheap like me and have to go back to buy a longer length later because you were 6” short the first time. Measure twice, cut once, buy once!
• 1 - ½” hose clamp
• Black and white plastic tie wraps

I picked up most of this stuff at NAPA.

Start by attaching the hose to the end of your radiator overflow tube (on the back of the radiator left hand side) with the hose clamp. After checking the level of fluid is safely below the top of the tube inside the radiator, put the radiator cap on and suck on the end of the rubber hose. You should be able to create a small vacuum that will hold your tongue on the end of the hose for at least 15 seconds. If you can’t create a small vacuum then you have to check the seal of your radiator cap – assuming there are no major leaks somewhere else. It is very important that the system be air tight except for the vent on the recovery bottle. If there is the slightest air leak, the fluid will not return on cooling. I have a quail hood ornament cap so I had to remove the top rubber seal and shim it up slightly on the bottom with a paper gasket I cut out of a file folder. I also ultimately ended up replacing the lower cap gasket about a week later which resulted in a dramatic improvement in the system’s operation.

Next – drill a hole in the bottom of the recovery bottle outlet as described in the instructions that come with the Dorman bottle. Then mount the bottle to the left radiator support rod with the white tie wraps. I have a hood prop kit installed on my car which runs across the two support rods so I used this to secure the bottle to stop it from swinging back and forth. This was accomplished with a couple of tie wraps wrapped around the bottle and the hood prop support.

Now with a small loop at the bottom of the hose coming out of the overflow tube, so it won’t kink, run the hose up the left side of the radiator to the top and then along the left support rod to the bottle. Secure the hose with the black tie wraps. Connect the hose to the recovery bottle again using a black tie wrap to secure it.

If the fluid in your radiator is at the right level – just above the top fins - then add about an inch of additional fluid in the bottle. Now take your car for a drive. After your engine cools down (an hour at least) you should find that the fluid in the bottle has been sucked back into the radiator. I suggest you check that the fluid level has indeed being raised in the radiator or you may have a leak somewhere. Next time when you go for a drive and the car is sufficiently warmed-up, you should find fluid back in the bottle. Now when you are on a big hill climb on a hot day, most of the radiator overflow should end up in the bottle, unless of course you have a serious boil over.

One last consideration: If you don’t have a thermostat installed in your upper radiator hose, you should consider this addition as well. The thermostat makes sure the engine warms up properly which should help to prolong its life. All the Model A parts suppliers carry a thermostat that will work for around $15.00.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by msmaron

TOM ;..dont you think that is a patch and should really not be needed?

No, it works so I'll leave it. A thermostat is good for quicker warm up anyway, and the quicker the enginne gets to operating temperature, the better.

[Pete]

The info from Marco will work but it is a bandaid, not a fix for the basic problem.
A top tank baffle is not a primary cure for puking water out.
It is primarily designed to stop aereation. The secondary benefit of this is
stopping water from being forced out due to expansion from air trapped in the water.
A proper baffle will cover the whole top section of the radiator inside the top tank. It will have openings along the side and ends and have 1/2 inch holes spaced regularly throughout to center area. These holes will be approximatelt 3 inches apart. The side openings will vary in size according to the capacity of the radiator.
Another common belief is that slowing the water down will make it cool better. That is wrong. If you don't buy that, look up Boyle's laws of thermodynamics or ask an engineer involved in cooling processes.
You don't need water hoses the size of a fire hose to cool a flathead either. You DO need them to look proper for judging though.

[1931 flamingo]

neat idea, any way you could post a few photos for us?
Paul in CT

[Pete]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

neat idea, any way you could post a few photos for us?
Paul in CT

Here's a rough sketch..The baffle has the edges bent up about 1/2 inch and is soldered in the tank before the tank is put on the core.

[30Tudor]

Here is a picture of my radiator overflow bottle setup as descriped in a previous post on this thread.

[Louis]

i've read here before that each car finds it own level. about 2 mo's ago i filled my 31 to the top with 50/50, every time i drove it to ths store and back it would spit up some 50/50, after about a week it quit spiting up fluid. i checked the level it was about 2 in. down and when i shook the car i could see the fluid moving around, i left it at that level and have not added any fluid to it.
i see some people at car shows that carry a gallon of water in their car to keep their rad. full all the time's, i don't think this will let the car find it's own level. JMHO.