A rust converter in a fuel tank?

[Mike B]

A week or so ago, I'd used some Al brightener to dissolve the rust in my tank, after rinsing with water I put about 1/2 gallon of diesel in it, and have been sloshing it around..to keep it from flash rusting.

My neighbor (A boating man) stopped by as I was draining out the diesel and asked what I was doing.

After I explained to him, he said I just should have used a rust converter in the tank..like "Rust Mort"...sloshed it around, let it sit..drain and let it dry..and that's all that would have been needed.

He says that's what they do when they have tank rust.

I guess if the rust is "converted"...it won' rust anymore, but what about the "converted rust" flaking off?

Thanks.

[19Fordy]

I would think that the converted rust flakes would need to be removed. After all, they are still big enough to clog up your fuel system filter, etc. Can you put a hand full of nuts and bolts in the tank and shake it around real good? Do that once a day for a week and see what happens. Count the number of nuts and bolts that you put in and take out.

[Mike B]

My tank is fine now...I was just curious if this would be a viable solution in the future if needed.

I also was concerned of things flaking off as well...never used a rust converter, is why I asked

[ford38v8]

Rust Mort is a great product, and would probably be a good thing to do with a gas tank, but only after the nut rattle operation has removed the flakes. I've never heard of aluminum brightener being used in a tank, and wonder if it would be effective?

After the rust mort, though, a modern sealer would be good, and a marine additive in each tank ful of gas. Your diesel fuel coats the tank nicely, but is only temporary. The marine stuff outgasses above the fuel level, which is where you need the rust preventative. Good stuff.

[Mike B]

I'd opened a thread about the AL brightener a week or so back...it's widely used at truck stop washes, has HF and some inert acids as well...anyway, will look for the link and post it in a bit.

Pretty sure in my climate right now (dry and hot) I'll be good for a bit, but will look into sealer as well.

I was mostly curious if a converter was used (after getting the big chucks/flakes out), could you just install a tank and run it without worries?

I know that boat guys use lots of stuff in there fuel to keep it stable, etc, while the boat sits, and is this why they have good luck over the long term?...I really don't know.

Edit:

Alan...here's what I used and did, turned out real nice.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142779

[ford38v8]

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Mike, I missed your previous post, read it just now, Good info there! About the flash rust, this is what you want for the Rust Mort to be effective. The name that evaded me earlier was on your other post also: Stabil Marine is the product that emits a metal protecting fog above the fuel level in the tank. This stuff makes the original Stabil obsolete, as the original did not address the rust issue you get with corn gas.

[texas webb]

I've also heard that marine gas contains no ethanol.

[Mike B]

Good info there Gents!

[blucar]

I have always been quite amazed that so few people in the old car world are unaware of the properties of the various "rust transformers" on the market..
I'll not attempt to go into the chemistry of the many brands of rust transformers on the market, they all accomplish the same task, converting surface rust, not rust out, into a protective ready to paint surface.
Generally speaking the treated surface will turn dark gray and/or a light black if the transformer has done it's work. I have had car bodies and/or parts acid dipped to remove rust, in most cases I spray rust transformer on the bare metal to protect it. In many cases it might be several years before I get around to starting the painting process.
If a fuel tank repair kit is purchased from any of the vendors, Bill Hirsh, Eastwood, etc., their kit will contain a cleaning solution, a rust control and the coating solution.
I have never had much luck with the Navel Jelly product..

[AnthonyG]

Probably will get scolded for bringing it up again but I think I have many who agree. I speak from experience when I say as long as I can find an aftermarket tank which others have verified installed successfully I'll never try to clean, rinse treat another old tank, I'll buy and install new. The process from beginning to end is so much of a PIA, dirty and so time consuming, then there's still no guarantee it won't drain rust particulate trapped in the baffles forever into your nice clean gas.
Just my perspective after trying it then buying a new tank afterwards. Save the Agg's go new.
Tony

[TJ]

X2 Anthony.

[Mike B]

Ya, I agree with replacing, when cost effective, many have problems with after market parts and fitting correctly.

Not all of us have tanks about to rot through...nor need a new tank, and many of us don't have the $$ to replace a tank....

To adress another post/reply...about how some in this hobby "don't know about...."

Well, if there never was a need to have to use a product, how wold one know? I mean, I've made a habit of :

Body work...clean
Prime
Seal..

It would be akin to me asking "geez...you don't know how to rebuild and set up a rear end"?

(to no one in particular)


The good thing is, this site offers great info...hence my question...which I still haven't recieved a direct answer to, which is:

If you used a rust converter, can you just run gas in the tank then...pretty much what I was asking.

Myself and another member were discussng the "converted" rust, and possibiity of said converted rust, flaking off....

Anyways, don't know why-well, yes I do-I'm kinda worked up about this, maybe I need a new Thermostat to lower my temp some.

Apologize for my rant...not really directed at anyone in this thread...just not really happy with FB right now.

[texas webb]

Mike,I don't have a good answer to the "flake rust"issue other than a good filter after tank to check often.There are many sealers with talk of good to no good.The cleaning with nuts,washers and anything to knock the rust scale loose works good but baffles are hard to get to.A good ethanol additive is needed w/todays gas.

[AnthonyG]

Sorry Mike, didn't mean to fire you up. I spent $65 on the cleaner sealer kit and spent three days a couple of hours a day shaking, rattling and rolling the tank with a bunch of chain in it then a couple more flush and dry days, then another couple trying to seal and dry the sealer ( rust converter ). Results, I couldn't run the engine 20 minutes without changing the filter. The new tank only cost $185. Between my time, aggravation and the cost of the kit in hindsight the $185 for the tank I ended up buying seemed cheap. Just trying to save the guy the Agg's I went through. Kudos to those who were successful!

[Mike B]

No issues Tony...I should have just had a beer and relaxed...my issue of getting fired up here, really has no bearing on this thread...but the fingers were keeping up with the brain...lol.

Sorry if I offended you.

Edit:

PS-and anyone else.

[AnthonyG]

Mike, no prob, all good.