1914 Hard to Start

[Ed in Maine]

Got the T out for the first time this summer. Very hard to start, hand cranked. I had some trouble last summer and the compression is not the greatest. This is the work that has been done:
1. Removed the head, had the head surfaced, new head gasket
2. Lapped the valves and they did look good, no burn out damage and installed new valve springs.
3. Installed Helicoils in all holes and torqued to 45-48 ft-lbs., used head gasket sealer.
4. Checked cylinder compression: #1 @ 38 lb.s, #2 @ 41 lb.s, #3 @ 37 lb.s and #4 @ 37 lb.s. The engine was slightly warm.

On the first start, I hand cranked the engine 5 times, ignition off with choke. I turned on the ignition and the engine jumped but did not start. With more hand cranks the engine just popped once and stopped. Two more cranks with choke and with choke off, the engine just popped once and did not start. I must have repeated this process six or seven times before the engine finally stayed running. This is a lot of work and the car was much better years ago.

What do you think? I'm beginning to wonder if there are other problems such as fuel supply or dirty timer problems. I hate to blindly take things apart when the item is unrelated to the starting problem.

Any suggestions are appreciated. I hate to take the car very far from home in fear that I will stall it and not be able to get it running again. Yesterday after I got the car running, it was fine, drove it a couple of miles and no overheating. Thanks for your help. Ed

[yachtsmanbill]

One of the most simple yet overlooked mtce issues is a yearly timer cleaning. Clean well and add a few squirts of oil. Ideally when oiled properly, the "dam" where the contacts are holds oil in front on the bowl part. A few drops of clean oil raises the level just enough for the roller to pick up a few drops. Lecture over... Leave the switch OFF and hook up a battery charger to the coil box post. At least youll hear the coils and maybe start on a twist or two. Compression readings are just a tad low, but yer not ready for bailing wire piston rings yet LOL... ws

[Mark W.]

Depending on where you are in Maine -I'm 20 minutes north of Belfast and have a hand-crank coil tester - if it is not the timer, the fuel supply, or plugs - that would be the next thing to check.

[Steve Jelf]

Bill's suggestion on oiling the timer applies to the stock roller timer. If you're using a New Day, no oil.

1 Clean timer.

2 Set timing.

3 If those don't help, investigate fuel. Junk in the line or carb? Sticking float valve?

Start with the simple and most obvious stuff and go from there. Properly set up, a T should start on one pull of the crank.

[CharlieB]

One thing you don't mention is if you have a battery (hot shot) for starting.The second thing that comes to mind is the coils. New capacitors and HCC set-up are a must. Of course the timer must be cleaned/oiled regularly. Check your carb needle setting and the choke operation.

[Jack Innes]

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With the switch on "bat" when you turn it over slowly you should hear a buzz for each plug - if not, the problem may be spark.

If you cranked it a lot with the choke on there should be gas on the ground - if not, the problem may be lack of fuel flow. Open the valve on the bottom of the carb first to see if it is clear to there.

There is a lot of truth in the theory that most electrical problems are fuel related and vise-versa.

[Ed in Maine]

Thank you for your comments. I do use a battery for start and mag while running. I do have some gas under the carb. I put a new Anderson timer in the car three years ago and have not cleaned or oiled it since. I will clean it and re-oil. I will check the screen at the fuel tank. Thanks for your help, Ed

[Royce P]

If the gas is more than 30 days old it may be the problem. I find a big difference starting my T's with new gas versus some that has been in a car that sat for a month without running.

[redmodelt]

Unless you have the proper lub, the Anderson should be run dry. I agree with check the fuel flow, not just a it's coming out but does it have a "GOOD" flow.

[nhusa]

My 19 does not have a starter.

Jack up a rear wheel, put a block in front of a wheel (not the one you jacked up), place the brake handle in neutral, and then try to start it.

BTW I only choke my 19 for two pulls when cold before trying to start for real.
I only do one pull if it is warm.
I get a free start about 50% of the time.