276 stroker from 35 years of parts

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by cadillac512

I made a slug that fit in the centers with both flywheels together. Then drilled the early wheel's bolt holes all the way through. Set on top of the 8BA wheel, transfer punch marked the holes, drilled pilot holes then proper holes to tap 5/16-18. Tapped the holes in the drill press by hand. Works great in the Merc with 10" clutch. But hey...you're probably done with yours by now!

He left about a half hour ago. He turned I pilot that fit my pilot bearing, we did a bunch of measuring and decided to go from the ID of the heavy clamping plate so turned a disc about 6" and machined to be snug in the interior of the plate. He had transfer punches and center drill. I NEED both! All holes line up perfectly in the speedway assembly in all three positions. Since it's his day off, I told him to head for home and I'd tap them. He pointed out that it was gonna be easy to start them straight because of the deep counterbore for the shoulder bolts. Upon careful inspection after he left, I could not be happier with the results. And yes, 8ba flywheels are drilled through. YAY!

[cadillac512]

Excellent. Country smarts for the win!

[GB SISSON]

Yes, it was a big relief. Great guy too. I remember when his folks brought him home from the hospital. Little Jimmy. Now he's 6-5 and 200 lbs and comes and bails me out. My wife and I used to think about selling the ten acres and getting a small place on the mainland as things are so expensive here and its hard to deal with doctor appointments and the like. But then there's times like this, and it all seems right.
Now I have to ask about lock washers on the pressure plate bolts. Jimmy measured the depth of the counterbore on a factory drilled hole off the face of the flywheel. .250", so that's what he set up for. I just tried the new pressure plate in one of those factory holes and the bolt bottomed out before the PP was clamped down. Two possibilities, after having it surfaced the counterbores shoulda been made deeper, or if lock washerers are in order, they are ok. On a general search I see some people say 'never, ever use lock washers on a PP, and then some say 'Ive never seen a PP on without lock washers.' So what's the scoop? Oh, and many said those twisty star washers because they dont break.

[Bored&Stroked]

It is nice to have a milling machine and rotary table for this sort of stuff - but the "pilot and transfer punch" method works just fine (if done properly).

Every flathead I've ever taken apart had 5/16 lock washers on it. Also, I usually put some blue Loctite on the bolt threads for extra protection.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

It is nice to have a milling machine and rotary table for this sort of stuff - but the "pilot and transfer punch" method works just fine (if done properly).

Every flathead I've ever taken apart had 5/16 lock washers on it. Also, I usually put some blue Loctite on the bolt threads for extra protection.

Thanks Dale, I just found my green bible and it shows lockwashers and I was gonna do locktite no matter what the outcome on the washer thing. So a fresh start tomorrow morning with lockwashers AND locktite. But first I need to bolt the flywheel to the crank, I have wire type bolts and stainless aircraft wire AND I have self locking later type bolts, I also have the four hole thin plate. I don't see how those lines in the head 'self lock' anything so maybe it's the safety wire type. Whichever method will get locktite'd. Maybe I can get the engine/trans combo set in the frame before I have to go meet up with lumber delivery truck from the mainland. Damn day job always gettin' in the way.

[cas3]

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I've torn apart many different breeds in my life of playing with cars, and never seen a PP bolt without lock washers.

[Mart]

Always lock washers here too. Re the crank bolts. Make sure the back face of the clutch hub, where the springs are, clears the stock bolt heads. Flathead clutches have no stickout beyond the friction surface. Many others do stick out by varying amounts. I have used thin head 12 sided bolts for a Chevy or later Ford to give clearance with a sticky out plate.

Mart.

[GB SISSON]

Great info again and thanks. The 9" S10 clutch that came with the transmission had springs and a flange sticking out on back. The 10" clutch that was in Monday's mail from speedway was recessed in the back. Maybe purpose built for this application. Was listed as a 'flathead to T5' disc. I've got loctite, I've got lockwashers and factory bolts and I have a plan. So off to the shop I go.

[GB SISSON]

Looks like the time stamp on this morning's post was 6:09 am. Dang, that was a long time ago. Finished up some clutch details, made a pilot tool, (Jimmy made the first half of it yesterday)installed the clutch, then the heads started uo with 3 coats of copper coat, 65-70 lbs torque seemed like a good plan so I went to 67 lbs in 3 stages. I've always used the comp gaskets in the past but these copper ones gave a real feeling of satisfaction, squishing down evenly with each stage of torque. The lumber truck missed his ferry so his transfer to us wood guys took place at 7pm. Got home, had a late dinner, watched a show and the missus went off to bed. Well I just had to go down and check something and well, two hours later we were all bolted up. I wish I could say it was Easy! There are a tremendous amount of bolts to dig outa coffee cans, sort out, clean up on the wire wheel and then lock washers. This hogshead, bell housing,starter plate, truck pan setup is brutal on the bolt scavenging.....I have used 90% thick head old bolts in good condition on this build. I especially loved the head bolts. Their proportions are most excellent and they are beautifully made.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Looks like the time stamp on this morning's post was 6:09 am. Dang, that was a long time ago. Finished up some clutch details, made a pilot tool, (Jimmy made the first half of it yesterday)installed the clutch, then the heads started uo with 3 coats of copper coat, 65-70 lbs torque seemed like a good plan so I went to 67 lbs in 3 stages. I've always used the comp gaskets in the past but these copper ones gave a real feeling of satisfaction, squishing down evenly with each stage of torque. The lumber truck missed his ferry so his transfer to us wood guys took place at 7pm. Got home, had a late dinner, watched a show and the missus went off to bed. Well I just had to go down and check something and well, two hours later we were all bolted up. I wish I could say it was Easy! There are a tremendous amount of bolts to dig outa coffee cans, sort out, clean up on the wire wheel and then lock washers. This hogshead, bell housing,starter plate, truck pan setup is brutal on the bolt scavenging.....I have used 90% thick head old bolts in good condition on this build. I especially loved the head bolts. Their proportions are most excellent and they are beautifully made.

[GB SISSON]

Thanks Pete! Good day so far, but just got outa the greasy clothes to build somebody a maple bed frame and headboard. Had the devil's own time fighting the Y pipe til I realized it was hitting the truck pan! Pounded a flat into the pipe, now clears by 3/8". Had to chop off the exhaust for the crossmember, but a short 'S' section of tubing will fix it. Driveshaft was perfect fit. I'm waiting for some upper rad hoses , but still plenty to do. Thinking Saturday for engine trial run. Don't touch that dial.....

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Don't touch that dial.....

:-) This sure is entertaining, armchair build from here

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Thanks Pete! Good day so far, but just got outa the greasy clothes to build somebody a maple bed frame and headboard. Had the devil's own time fighting the Y pipe til I realized it was hitting the truck pan! Pounded a flat into the pipe, now clears by 3/8". Had to chop off the exhaust for the crossmember, but a short 'S' section of tubing will fix it. Driveshaft was perfect fit. I'm waiting for some upper rad hoses , but still plenty to do. Thinking Saturday for engine trial run. Don't touch that dial.....

[Bored&Stroked]

The new driveshaft looks to be the perfect length - nice job by you and the company that made it.

[cmbrucew]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

The new driveshaft looks to be the perfect length - nice job by you and the company that made it.

Gary
What are the angles for the u-joints?


Bruce

[GB SISSON]

Thanks Dale. Looks like I'll have a couple hours this evening. My wife's working late so I won't have to stop for dinner. Just finished up in wood shop. Hmmmm, what to attack? Maybe fuel pump and oil filter and work forward.....

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by cmbrucew

Gary
What are the angles for the u-joints?


Bruce

I guess I don't know. They certainly aren't anything extreme. I have an angle finder I can look tonight and report back. Not that I can do much, but maybe shims at leaf springs.

[cas3]

I like the winch mounted on the wall...must be the engine hoist...Cool!

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by cas3

I like the winch mounted on the wall...must be the engine hoist...Cool!

Thanks Skip, it's the 'everything picker upper'. It's actually on a 6x6 post. Nice when you come home with something cool and heavy in the back of your truck. It's a Bebee brothers 5 ton winch. I've picked up my big stover hit n miss engine at 2250 lbs and that was scary. But 10,000? Didn't get that much done tonight. Spent half of the 2 hours looking for fittings and fastenings I've picked up at the hardware store recently and put in a 'safe place'. I think I'm attaining the 50/50 level of actually doing stuff, and looking for stuff (that I just set down). Did get the clutch lever in and adjusted and it acts like a ford clutch. No hang ups. Then plumbed in a manual OP gauge with a tee. No U joint angles yet.