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Fillinjc 04-27-2017 08:06 PM

Manifold Stud Torque
 

Hi,

Installing a new intake on my 1930 coupe. Using studs and brass nuts I installed a year ago with the engine rebuild. I was torquing to 30 ft lbs. As I was finishing, the front stud began creaking to beat the band. Not even sure where the torque ended up. I am thinking to redo them using Anti-Seize. Les Andrews book says reduce torque by 45% using Anti-Seize. Torque to 17 ft lbs?

Thanks,
Jerry

SeaSlugs 04-27-2017 08:47 PM

Re: Manifold Stud Torque
 

i didnt think those nuts were brass....

did you check for flatness between the 2 manifolds?

JDupuis 04-27-2017 08:54 PM

Re: Manifold Stud Torque
 

Jerry, I've used the brass nuts in the past. I've also stripped them. Head nuts are the same size. I use old head nuts all the time. Good luck. Jeff

Larry Jenkins 04-27-2017 09:54 PM

Re: Manifold Stud Torque
 

It's the brass that is "squeaking."

Fillinjc 04-27-2017 10:00 PM

Re: Manifold Stud Torque
 

Ok, sounds like I have a plan. Dig up my old head nuts and lose the brass.

And yes I did check the manifolds with a straight edge. Could see no gap.

Thanks a lot!
Jerry

Mike V. Florida 04-27-2017 10:41 PM

Re: Manifold Stud Torque
 

A search will reveal a consensus prefers the copper clad "1931" gasket for the manifold.

J Franklin 04-27-2017 11:36 PM

Re: Manifold Stud Torque
 

Brass nuts are easier to remove than rusty steel nuts when you need to replace the gaskets. I would certainly use never-seize if using ferrous nuts. 25-35 ft#.

Patrick L. 04-28-2017 10:21 AM

Re: Manifold Stud Torque
 

I like brass nuts and anti-seize. Just make sure the hold-downs are installed correctly.

Unless the studs and nuts are really dry I'm concerned about your torque wrench. It is the nuts that are squealing and shouldn't be at at that torque value. 30-35# is plenty.

When using a 'clicker' type wrench always 'exercise' it before using it and start low and work your way up.

Fillinjc 04-28-2017 10:42 AM

Re: Manifold Stud Torque
 

Again. Thanks for the comments. My head nuts are among the missing so I will reuse the brass nuts with Anti-Seize. My torque wrench is a 35some year old Craftsman clicker. I have always backed it down when not in use. 6 or so years ago a Buell dealer verified it when processing a warranty claim on a stripped part. I have been torquing in 10 ft lb increments.

Thanks again.
Jerry

SeaSlugs 04-28-2017 11:05 AM

Re: Manifold Stud Torque
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick L. (Post 1465246)
I like brass nuts and anti-seize. Just make sure the hold-downs are installed correctly.

Unless the studs and nuts are really dry I'm concerned about your torque wrench. It is the nuts that are squealing and shouldn't be at at that torque value. 30-35# is plenty.

When using a 'clicker' type wrench always 'exercise' it before using it and start low and work your way up.

they will also squeal if theres a burr or damaged thread on the studs. Might want to visually check and or run a die down the threads just to make sure.
If all you have is brass then yea antisieze on the studs, use the later 31 copper gasket with spray copper gasket sealant, proper orientation of the fat "washers" and slowly torque them evenly and that should do it.


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