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-   -   Model B Crankshaft (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=144079)

daveymc29 07-10-2014 03:45 PM

Model B Crankshaft
 

Will a Model B crankshaft work in a Model A block. Any real changes necessary?

Joe K 07-10-2014 03:50 PM

Re: Model B Crankshaft
 

Other than the obvious (journal/rod diameters) the only other issue I've heard of is a tendency of the rods to hit against the sides of the crankcase. I believe the B block is relieved a bit for clearance at this place.

It is possible to compensate for this.

I explored the option but have yet to act on it.

Joe K

Purdy Swoft 07-10-2014 03:53 PM

Re: Model B Crankshaft
 

The main beartings will need to be cut down to model A size. You will need model B or aftermarket special connecting rods. If model B rods are used, special rod nuts will be needed or the oil pan will need some minor mods to clear.

Joe K 07-10-2014 03:54 PM

Re: Model B Crankshaft
 

A quick look to refresh my memory confirms Purdy on this.

See http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...engine.506451/

Joe K

Chris Haynes 07-10-2014 04:20 PM

Re: Model B Crankshaft
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft (Post 908198)
The main beartings will need to be cut down to model A size. You will need model B or aftermarket special connecting rods. If model B rods are used, special rod nuts will be needed or the oil pan will need some minor mods to clear.

The minor mods of the oil pan are extremely minor. Bolt the pan in place and turn over the engine. A rod will hit the pan. Remove the pan and with a ball peen hammer install some clearance for the rod. You will have to R&R the pan at least 8 times to get all you locations marked. Not rocket science. :D

daveymc29 07-10-2014 06:24 PM

Re: Model B Crankshaft
 

Thanks, it all sounds rather simple, just time consuming and a few bucks for the machining.

hardtimes 07-10-2014 06:37 PM

Re: Model B Crankshaft
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveymc29 (Post 908274)
Thanks, it all sounds rather simple, just time consuming and a few bucks for the machining.

Hey davey,
The rods will clear block, but will touch pan..ergo pan dimples, as said. You will have the benefit of larger/stronger rod journals and use any B crank that you wish to do this, i.e.- Ford first edition..without counterweights, right up thru C crank.

If I were you, I'd get a copy of member Jim Brierley's book and you will not only have answers to the instant inquiry....but much/much more, IMO :) ! And, if you do not comprehend what you are reading (my problem,eh :p !), you can contact Jim B to clarify such. He (Mr. F.A.S.T.) is easy to talk to and most knowledgeable !

Purdy Swoft 07-10-2014 07:02 PM

Re: Model B Crankshaft
 

The beaver tail crankshaft isn't a mobel B crankshaft. The beaver tail crankshaft was used in 1928 and has the same journal sizes as the later model A crankshaft

Gavin 07-11-2014 02:22 AM

Re: Model B Crankshaft
 

daveymc29,

I recently did this. Had the mains ground to standard A size and used Snyders B rods which had nuts that did not contact the sump. Also fitted a modern rear seal which I hope will not leak too much. I expect to run this engine in the next month or so.

Cheers,
Gavin

colin1928 07-11-2014 02:38 AM

Re: Model B Crankshaft
 

The oil slinger is a different size and needs to be machined to fit the A block if it is off by just a few thou diameter, thickness and taper it will leak
find a machine shop that has done this
or you have you have it machined for a modern seal easier

Jim Brierley 07-11-2014 09:02 AM

Re: Model B Crankshaft
 

use ARP nuts, the 12-point kind and they clear the A pan with no mods needed.


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