The Ford Barn

The Ford Barn (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/index.php)
-   Early V8 (1932-53) (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=4)
-   -   Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34 (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=344259)

34 fordor owner 03-03-2025 03:29 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by koates (Post 2373141)
Dont even think about any type of electronic ignition for your original 6 volt 34 flathead. The original twin points distributor is an excellent and reliable unit. You say you have spark at the plugs so why the concentration on the ignition system ? Spark plugs have not been mentioned and can be troublesome with modern fuels. Recommend you fit NEW plugs and run fresh fuel. Old plugs do give quite a bit of trouble especially on starting. Regards, Kevin.


Last time it ran was 2-3 years ago with fresh plugs would sitting that long with plugs make them less functional?

tubman 03-03-2025 03:37 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner (Post 2373566)
Last time it ran was 2-3 years ago with fresh plugs would sitting that long with plugs make them less functional?

When I went through the same type of situation, it wasn't the plugs; it was the points. I had put my Corvette in storage for a couple of years. When I went to get it, no start. Somehow, the points had developed some sort film on them. I had to clean it off and reset them. Fired right off.

slowforty 03-03-2025 03:40 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

I dont know if the car has an ignition resistor. I had a bad one on my 40. It would fail intermittingly. Drove me nuts looking for the problem. Any way strap it out, to by pass it and see what happens.

34 fordor owner 03-03-2025 03:41 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubman (Post 2373567)
When I went through the same type of situation, it wasn't the plugs; it was the points. I had put my Corvette in storage for a couple of years. When I went to get it, no start. Somehow, the points had developed some sort film on them. I had to clean it off and reset them. Fired right off.


Have not tried to clean the points because I have spark but doesn’t hurt to try right?? Points on a dome distributor are not the easiest to access while on the car but I’ll give it a go.

FlatheadTed 03-03-2025 03:56 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

Stale Fuel can coat the plugs to ,Tow start it,Remove the Dome to clean the points.

Seth Swoboda 03-03-2025 04:05 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubman (Post 2373567)
When I went through the same type of situation, it wasn't the plugs; it was the points. I had put my Corvette in storage for a couple of years. When I went to get it, no start. Somehow, the points had developed some sort film on them. I had to clean it off and reset them. Fired right off.

I woke up a '37, 221 flathead from a 20+ year sleep and all it needed was the points cleaned. I pulled a piece of emery cloth through the points one time and she fired right off with a fresh battery and a temporary gas can set up.

rockfla 03-03-2025 04:18 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

Just an "aside" here BUT have you checked your battery with a Hydrometer to see IF all three cells are good??? You can have a low or bad cell and still get a 6 + Volt reading with a multi meter BUT you will have a tremendous loss of amps as well as cold cranking amps!!! SO make sure you have a good strong battery with three good cells

35fordtn 03-03-2025 04:26 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

If only one set of points is contacting you can still have a spark albeit weak but the timing would be so far off that it would never start (especially if its the RH side) I would clean BOTH sets of points, and run a ohm test from the end of each plug with to the inner dist cap terminals. If someone local to you has a sun machine with a FH adapter you could test the distributor and know it's good or not.

Some 600 or 400 grit folded over sand paper between the contacts and a quick spray of brake cleaner usually gets the corrosion off and allows contact. If stored in a wet of humid area they can corrode rather quick and lose contact

34 fordor owner 03-03-2025 04:29 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockfla (Post 2373581)
Just an "aside" here BUT have you checked your battery with a Hydrometer to see IF all three cells are good??? You can have a low or bad cell and still get a 6 + Volt reading with a multi meter BUT you will have a tremendous loss of amps as well as cold cranking amps!!! SO make sure you have a good strong battery with three good cells


Just installed a new battery and resistor a week ago, working on points and getting fresh plugs. It has 6 volt at the coil points close 3 open. Tried starting and it’s right there has a little get up like it wants to crank then go back to normal crank sound. Maybe it is the plugs so points and plugs. Running autolite 386.

Flathead Fever 03-03-2025 04:41 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? Β‘34
 

If the fuel is bad and it won't start but you keep cranking it, then the plugs could be fouled to. When I have a car that won't start, I remove the hose from the fuel pump and hook up a can of new fuel to it. Plus, I drain the fuel from the carb before I pump the new fuel into it. I go through this every once in a while, here. I have something like 12 cars that sit around for years and then I decide to start one of them. I don't even attempt to start them on the old fuel. My dad's '32 roadster set for 15-years while he had it, and the fuel turned solid and plugged the line from the tank. I have to replace all the lines, 120 lb.'s of air won't even blow the line clean. I have the tank out of the car and sand blasted the inside of it. Then I had a stroke and it's waiting for me to get out there and put it ack together.

Squirt some fuel down the carb and see if it will try and start. If it won't then check the plugs to see if they are wet, while you have them out do a compression check. My dad's roadster ran fine, set for 15-years and now an intake valve is stuck in the open position. My '66 Shelby sits for years and then I drain the fuel, rebuild the carb and it runs great. Then it set again and now I have to go through it all again. I was professional mechanic for 30-years, but I had back surgery and I just don't do what stuff around here like I used to, I can't keep up with everything.

rockfla 03-03-2025 04:42 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner (Post 2373585)
Just installed a new battery and resistor a week ago, working on points and getting fresh plugs. It has 6 volt at the coil points close 3 open. Tried starting and it’s right there has a little get up like it wants to crank then go back to normal crank sound. Maybe it is the plugs so points and plugs. Running autolite 386.

Have you checked your "New" battery with a hydrometer??? The reason I ask IS we went through 5 "new" 6V batteries (O"'Riely's) BEFORE we found "1" good one!!! You can get a "new" battery with a low to bad cell!!!! Just sayin'. I never got to the battery "gettin" place for a new 6V battery without my hydrometer.
ALSO, as Michael at Third Gen said, have your distributor set up on a Sun Machine....He can do it OR IF you like you can send it to me and I can run it on my Sun for you!!!

FlatheadTed 03-03-2025 09:41 PM

Re: Chasing same issues again any ideas? ‘34
 

I do work for a Museum of 200 x cars some of them have been dormant for 20 years or so and Towing them works for a 1st start up ,it can pump up the rings with oil increasing compression .We did a 29 Dodge with Fouled plugs ,thought it was the Model A carb on it we fitted that to a chev it ran nice so that narrowed it down to plugs that were near new ,


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:31 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.