model A brake light switch hook up?

[69daytona]

I just bought my first model A, A 1931 coupe with dual side mounts, Car was sitting in a garage since 56 and last registered in 62, Came with all the original parts in good shape plus a new model B engine and Transmission.
I just finished installing the new B engine and trans. and have done just enough wiring to make it run.
The car came with new head light switch and wiring but the problem I have is How to hook up the brake light switch, looks like its mechanical but I cant see how it is hooked up to activate it. Still has the original brake light switch on back side of frame cross member.

[1931 flamingo]

Welcome to the barn. I don't have it handy to post but you need to acquire parts catalogs from several of the A vendors. many have detailed drawings of many diff mechanisms. Also Les Andrews book (s), at least vol 1. Someone else will "chime" in here I'm sure.
Paul in CT

[69daytona]

Thanks. I have 7 different model A vendors catalogs and a few different restoration manuals that came with the car but none show the brake light switch hook up.
Once it drys up outside I will go lay under the car and try to figure it out.

[Tom Wesenberg]

The brake pedal rod should have a button end that hits the brake switch rod and pushes the switch OFF when the brake pedal is released. The brake switch mounts on the rear of the center crossmember and the switch rod fits through the hole in the crossmember. Be sure the switch rod doesn't rub on the edge of the crossmember hole, or it may bind.

I don't have a picture since my 1928-9 style brake switch mounts on the tranny cover.

[Tom Endy]

The brake light switch has two wire terminals on it. The wire on one terminal runs to the brake light(s). The wire on the other terminal runs to the light bail on the bottom of the steering column. Inside the bail the wire attaches to battery power.

I have often wondered why Henry wired it that way. The brake light switch could easily pick up its battery power from a number of places rather than enter the rats nest of wiring inside the bail.

A practical tip is to remove the wire on the switch from the bail and tape it off. Run a separate wire from the fuse (if you have one installed) to the switch terminal where you removed the bail wire. When wired this way if you are ever out on the road and there is a short inside the bail you can easily remove the wire that runs from the cut-out (or alternator) to the bail. This will remove all power from the bail. You wont have any headlights, tail lights, or cowl lights, but you can continue on during day light hours and the brake lights will be operational.

Tom Endy

[Duffy1]

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Do a search . Lot of info on 31 light switch . After reading the info from your search you will understand why I suggest you use a 28-29 switch .

[Jimczeb]

I have a question regarding wiring directionals. It has to do with the wire that goes from the directionals unit to the brake light switch. I have seen 2 ways of wiring it and need some input. One way is to connect the unit to the hot wire on the switch and the wire that used to go to the brakes to ground. Others have said to leave the second wire unconnected. Which is correct.
Thanks - Jim Czebiniak - 1930 fordor

[Badpuppy]

First way will short battery to ground when you step on the brake. Neither is correct.

The wire running to the brake lights is rerouted to the turn switch. Switch splits the brake signal between normal (both steady), left flash, and rignt flash to the two brake lights.

[old31]

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