The Ford Barn

Dune Country · 04-23-2012, 02:18 PM

Hi,
I’m restoring a ’31 CCPU.
I have removed (pried/cut) the box sides off of the sub frame. Everything has been straightened and blocked, now ready to rivet everything back together.
Where the bottom curve of the sides meets the sub frame and cannot be seen is primer sealer good enough or coat with rustoleum or East wood heavy-duty Anti Rust?
My thought is the anti-rust, if the heat from the rivets damage the coating it might reseal better.

Same for where the splash shield sits on the frame.

Your thoughts?

Ghost of elmirage · 04-23-2012, 02:20 PM

Don't heat anything!!

Ed Saniewski · 04-23-2012, 05:30 PM

I heated the rivets then hammered them with a rivet gun( air chisel) and bucking tool. It was a lot of work. We primed the steel then filled in seam sealer where we could, then put a lot of paint down those spaces. In hind sight, I should have just bought a re-pop bed and kept the old bed for a trailer. We spent a lot of time and energy fixing the old bed.

midgetracer · 04-23-2012, 06:06 PM

I riveted it together with the rivets cold and with epoxy primer in the area I could not see when done. It was a two man job... one holding the bucking bar and one on the air hammer. It took a few rivets to get the hang of it, but it went well. It was an exhausting job and I questioned why I didn't order a repro box when I was in the middle of it.

Dune Country · 04-23-2012, 08:24 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thanks guys, budget can't afford repop box, exoxy paint and I like the seam sealer idea
aiming for better than a 20/20 paint job.

04-23-2012, 02:18 PM	#1
Dune Country Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Winchester Bay OR Posts: 93	CCPU bed sides Hi, I’m restoring a ’31 CCPU. I have removed (pried/cut) the box sides off of the sub frame. Everything has been straightened and blocked, now ready to rivet everything back together. Where the bottom curve of the sides meets the sub frame and cannot be seen is primer sealer good enough or coat with rustoleum or East wood heavy-duty Anti Rust? My thought is the anti-rust, if the heat from the rivets damage the coating it might reseal better. Same for where the splash shield sits on the frame. Your thoughts?

04-23-2012, 02:20 PM	#2
Ghost of elmirage Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Worcester , Mass Posts: 300	Re: CCPU bed sides Don't heat anything!! __________________ [email protected]

04-23-2012, 05:30 PM	#3
Ed Saniewski Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Denville NJ Posts: 964	Re: CCPU bed sides I heated the rivets then hammered them with a rivet gun( air chisel) and bucking tool. It was a lot of work. We primed the steel then filled in seam sealer where we could, then put a lot of paint down those spaces. In hind sight, I should have just bought a re-pop bed and kept the old bed for a trailer. We spent a lot of time and energy fixing the old bed. __________________ Model A Ford Club of New Jersey http://www.mafcnj.org Model A Pick Up Owners and Enthusiasts https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/group.php?groupid=5

04-23-2012, 06:06 PM	#4
midgetracer Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bismarck ND Posts: 1,189	Re: CCPU bed sides I riveted it together with the rivets cold and with epoxy primer in the area I could not see when done. It was a two man job... one holding the bucking bar and one on the air hammer. It took a few rivets to get the hang of it, but it went well. It was an exhausting job and I questioned why I didn't order a repro box when I was in the middle of it.

04-23-2012, 08:24 PM	#5
Dune Country Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Winchester Bay OR Posts: 93	Re: CCPU bed sides Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks guys, budget can't afford repop box, exoxy paint and I like the seam sealer idea aiming for better than a 20/20 paint job.