Carb Rebuild Kits

[40fordpu]

A couple months ago I decided to tear down my carb and rebuild it. I bead blasted the carb but now need a kit. I was told months ago to make sure to buy a USA made kit. Where is the best place to buy kits? What comes in a kit? How much do kits cost?

The engine is a 8ba. The carb markings are 8ba and 94.

Thanks for your help.

[wga]

Try Early Ford in San Dimas.

[Seth Swoboda]

Two suggestions, contact KenCt or Charlie in NY (in no particlular order) for carb kits/questions. Both of them are 97 & 94 carb experts. Maybe one of them will read this thread and contact you.

[Ol' Ron]

Daytona carburetors.

[ora masters]

Originally Posted by 40fordpu

A couple months ago I decided to tear down my carb and rebuild it. I bead blasted the carb but now need a kit. I was told months ago to make sure to buy a USA made kit. Where is the best place to buy kits? What comes in a kit? How much do kits cost?

The engine is a 8ba. The carb markings are 8ba and 94.

Thanks for your help.

i got my kit from NAPA

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

You might as well forget getting a kit from any parts store, they all have rubber pumps and rubber needel and seats and bad power valves. This corn gas we have now will ruin those parts in no time. Get in touch with Ken or Charlie and get leather pump and steel n-seat and good p-valve. Walt

[JM 35 Sedan]

Contact Uncle Max for any stromberg parts/kits you may need. Look him up in the members list under community and send him a PM.
check out this website to determine parts/kits that you need....http://www.stromberg-carburetors.com...storation.html
Also, there is a great on line tech article with pictures on how to rebuild stromberg carbs. I'm away from my computer right now so can't get you the website url. Maybe someone else can post this info for you

[41panelmark]

Get them from Ken.

[Paul/Woodinville]

I got mine for Ken in CT and everything was top of the line.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Well, Ken CT just let me know that I made a mistake and did not read the original post correctly and he is correct. Thanks for letting me know Ken. I didn't catch the last part of the message on my little iPhone screen that said 8ba carb. Uncle Max does not do 94's but he is about the best there is on 97's IMO.
Maybe I have had a little too much 'shine doun here at the Moonshine Festival

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Well, Ken CT just let me know that I made a mistake and did not read the original post correctly and he is correct. Thanks for letting me know Ken. I didn't catch the last part of the message on my little iPhone screen that said 8ba carb. Uncle Max does not do 94's but he is about the best there is on 97's IMO.
Maybe I have had a little too much 'shine doun here at the Moonshine Festival

Oh you little kids with your little iphones and camara phones!!!!! ken ct.

[Charlie ny]

40,
Ken and I both use Daytona Parts accelerator pumps....correct
length and leather piston. We also exclusively use brass seats and
stainless needles unless requested by customers not to. I make my own
kits up for my own use and have settled on genuine Holley power valves
which require a bit of machining inside the bowl for head clearance. I've
used other PV's until recently but....well. My PV choice is 3.5 "/hg.
I've mentioned this in the past but think it may be time to say it
again. The heart of the 94 style carb is the vacuum operated PV. This
device really sort of reads what the motor wants by the presence or lack
of vacuum. Repeatedly the fly in this ointment is the bottom of the bowl
which forms the critical vac chamber with the iron base. It is not unusual
to find this face from .010 to .030 out of flat making a long lasting vac
seal tough. The top face of the base and the bottom face of the bowl
should be absolutely flat so that a minimum thickness gasket will be
properly squeezed and form a good vac tight seal. My choice is to
MACHINE these faces flat....I'm too clumsy to get this right with a
file.
Vacuum holds the PV closed, lack of or reduced vacuum allows
the valve to open. Lack of vac occurs when you jump on the gas
such as in passing situations or drag racing...your motor needs extra fuel
and the PV opens and supplies it. IF the carb has a vac leak between
base and bowl the PV will inadvertently open because it doesn't know
that the lower vac is due to the leak and not the motor under a load.
Like most Flathead components the carbs are pretty simple it's
just the little obscure details that muck things up.
Charlie ny

[ken ct]

You got it Charlie,i dont have your machine setup but im pretty good with some files i have. LOL ken ct.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by ken ct

Oh you little kids with your little iphones and camara phones!!!!! ken ct.

Ken, some of us act like kids while others are like old stubborn 'Goats' LOLOL

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by 40fordpu

A couple months ago I decided to tear down my carb and rebuild it. I bead blasted the carb but now need a kit. I was told months ago to make sure to buy a USA made kit. Where is the best place to buy kits? What comes in a kit? How much do kits cost?

The engine is a 8ba. The carb markings are 8ba and 94.

Thanks for your help.

I hope you didn't try and wash out all the GB's from the parts you blasted. All you got to do is blow them off after bead blasting with hi-pressure air hose. If you wet them after you will never get them all out of there,they clump up when wet them and will never come out.Got to do it all dry. ken ct

[ANNIE40]

How can I contact kenct?

[JM 35 Sedan]

Click here https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57148 He just made this post about having computer problems.

[Junknshit]

While I do my own carbs, I am not a carb expert, but if you are going to attempt your own you need to know that there are basically two types of kits available to the public. Rebuild kits and "jiffy kits". "Jiffy kits" are NOT a rebuild kit, but more of a refresh kit with gaskets and a few parts. You can also put a rebuild kit in your carb and do it right as far as installing everything but still have a poor performing carb due to worn shafts, bent linkage pieces (from someone "adjusting" it in the past), and various other things.

While I think it is great that someone wants to do things themselves, remember, trying to save money by doing something you haven't done before can often turn out more expensive than just letting an expert do it in the beginning.

How patient are you? Can you work your way thru things without getting upset easily? Do you have a lot of good info on your carb? Have you studied it?

Everything you need to know to rebuild that carb has been covered in the barn forums by Ken and others.

Before you tear into the carb, make sure it really is a carb problem, and not maybe ignition, or a vacuum leak, etc.

Are you going to run mutiple carbs, so maybe need extended shafts? Different jets or power valves?

Lot of things to be sure of first.

Just my opinions
"Junk"

[mcd560]

I have an Edelbrock SU 349 with three 8ba's. Its been sitting around a while and the carbs should be rebuilt. I see some threads referencing Ken and Charlie for carb kits, but I also see Junk's thread regarding modifications for tripple applications etc. Can I use the same rebuild kits for all these carbs, or do I need to use different kits for the different applications?

[tiquer]

Are the 94 style a wise choice then for a duel carb set up if the power valves are that vacuum sensitive. With the extra carb opening would they not be lower vacuum than just one and thus be running rich??