The Ford Barn

SoCalCoupe · 05-13-2023, 04:24 PM

What the heck does that mean?

In the picture, if you look closely, you can see that the throttle shaft ball pull linkage end on the left hand carburetor is about 10 degrees more clockwise than on the right hand carburetor. I want to re-clock the linkage end on left hand carburetor to match the right hand carburetor.

Why bother? No one will notice. We'll, you can't see it in the picture, but on the left hand carb, the accelerator pump rod is acting as a stop preventing me from reducing the idle speed with the idle speed set screw.

No doubt I could remove the throttle rod, clamp it in a drill press and drill out the "rivet", or whatever it is, attaching the crank to the throttle rod and reattach it in the desired position. I've heard silver brazing might work but I have no idea where to find someone with that skill and equipment. Is there another way that's easy to do with more common tools and materials?

Before you ask if something else could be wrong, possibly, but I don't think so. Yes, I used a Unisyn to sync up the carbs and I don't think there's a vacuum leak. If I block off either carb, the car chokes to a stop. Don't think the idles too rich either. The plugs are clean and even an eighth of turn in on the screws chokes the car.

Suppose I could just buy a new shaft with bushings (the only ones I can find are oversize) and new throttle rod end that "locks" with asquared shaft, hole and a screw. Don't really want to get into replacing throttle shaft bushings. Don't know the diameter of my current rod, my micrometer is a cheap mechanical model and I get different readings if I use the metric scale or the English scale and convert back and forth. Don't know which scale is more accurate. Of course, I could just buy a new micrometer and I just might do that this afternoon anyway.

I've probably answered my own questions but just checking the 'Barn to see if anyone has gotten into this before and could offer some advice that would make this easier or save some time.

Zeke3 · 05-13-2023, 05:32 PM

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I can’t tell the difference looking at the bottoms of the levers, below the “S” and “W” markings. The Unisyn is saying both carbs are pulling the same amount of air, so one throttle is not open more than the other. It looks to me like the attachment ball is closer to the carb shaft on the left carb. You might try unhooking the accelerator pump rods to see if you can then get adjusted the way you want or hook the accel rods to the “W” ball to see if that is any improvement.

A few more pictures of the carbs and linkage from a different angle may be helpful.

Do both carbs have chokes? If not that would affect the airflow readings.

05-13-2023, 04:24 PM	#1
SoCalCoupe Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Point Loma, San Diego, CA Posts: 430	re-clocking Stromberg throttle shaft ball pull linkage end What the heck does that mean? In the picture, if you look closely, you can see that the throttle shaft ball pull linkage end on the left hand carburetor is about 10 degrees more clockwise than on the right hand carburetor. I want to re-clock the linkage end on left hand carburetor to match the right hand carburetor. Why bother? No one will notice. We'll, you can't see it in the picture, but on the left hand carb, the accelerator pump rod is acting as a stop preventing me from reducing the idle speed with the idle speed set screw. No doubt I could remove the throttle rod, clamp it in a drill press and drill out the "rivet", or whatever it is, attaching the crank to the throttle rod and reattach it in the desired position. I've heard silver brazing might work but I have no idea where to find someone with that skill and equipment. Is there another way that's easy to do with more common tools and materials? Before you ask if something else could be wrong, possibly, but I don't think so. Yes, I used a Unisyn to sync up the carbs and I don't think there's a vacuum leak. If I block off either carb, the car chokes to a stop. Don't think the idles too rich either. The plugs are clean and even an eighth of turn in on the screws chokes the car. Suppose I could just buy a new shaft with bushings (the only ones I can find are oversize) and new throttle rod end that "locks" with asquared shaft, hole and a screw. Don't really want to get into replacing throttle shaft bushings. Don't know the diameter of my current rod, my micrometer is a cheap mechanical model and I get different readings if I use the metric scale or the English scale and convert back and forth. Don't know which scale is more accurate. Of course, I could just buy a new micrometer and I just might do that this afternoon anyway. I've probably answered my own questions but just checking the 'Barn to see if anyone has gotten into this before and could offer some advice that would make this easier or save some time.

05-13-2023, 05:32 PM	#2
Zeke3 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Columbus, IN Posts: 1,411	Re: re-clocking Stromberg throttle shaft ball pull linkage end Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I can’t tell the difference looking at the bottoms of the levers, below the “S” and “W” markings. The Unisyn is saying both carbs are pulling the same amount of air, so one throttle is not open more than the other. It looks to me like the attachment ball is closer to the carb shaft on the left carb. You might try unhooking the accelerator pump rods to see if you can then get adjusted the way you want or hook the accel rods to the “W” ball to see if that is any improvement. A few more pictures of the carbs and linkage from a different angle may be helpful. Do both carbs have chokes? If not that would affect the airflow readings. Last edited by Zeke3; 05-13-2023 at 05:35 PM. Reason: Added question.