Help with front brakes

[Talkwrench]

Ok Guys need a bit of help here .
I was going to replace the front wheel bearings on my pickup, so thought I would check the drums etc while at it. Well seems to me I have to replace the drums [39 Lockheed style twin adjuster?] I measured across and Im at around 12 1/4" on them ..oohh I think that's well oversize.
So what choices do I have ? bare in mind Im in the most isolated city in the world our dollar is crap and the shipping from the US has sky rocketed.

I'll do my best to hunt around locally for drums but my guess is they may not be better than what I have.
SO which drums[years] are the same ? any easy conversions? replacements?

I would like to keep my hubs as I have all new bearings / cups ready to go.

[V8COOPMAN]

'37-'39 are all wide five and are interchangeable. '36s have a goofy bearing spacing and won't work right. DD

[V8COOPMAN]

Now that I remember, your truck has the 5 X 5-1/2" bolt pattern wheels, right? If so, even with the '39 Lockheed plates, you can use '40 thru '48 drums. DD

[Talkwrench]

Yep sounds right they are 5 x 5 1/2 Im running 40's rims

[Talkwrench]

Anyone tried these macs drums? http://www.macsautoparts.com/early_v...kup-truck.html
Anything to be aware of when pressing out hubs?

[oldford2]

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If they seem to be stopping O K and the linings show fairly even wear all around, why not run them?

[cas3]

MT products make the best drums. when you open the box you'll think you are looking at a piece of art! buy studs from them too. the others, macs, etc are chinese and have poor casting quality and fit and balance issues. to get your hubs apart you need a 5/8 hole saw to cut the swedge from around each of the ford studs. drill down about the depth of the saw teeth is all thats needed, then they press out. drums are snug on the hub, a little heat sometimes needed near the hub and the come off with a bang! check your hubs for true while they are apart skip

[19Fordy]

Here's what the MT drums look like. When you open the box, it feels like Santa Clause has arrived early.

[Kahuna]

I got new drums from Speedway. Very nice units

[Talkwrench]

Can I ask why new studs are needed..? The drum wont press on and off ok??

Oldford2 as you can see its on the thin side ! I run my pickup pretty hard and just about every day, I guess its just time to be done as I want to fit the new wheel bearings as well..

[rich b]

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

Can I ask why new studs are needed..? The drum wont press on and off ok?? .

The original studs are swaged, which both retains the studs and attaches the drum. The swages needs to be cut (as explained earlier) to remove the drum. If the studs are pressed out without cutting, the hubs can be damaged. Once the studs are out, it is better to heat the area around the center register and "slam" the drum down on a solid surface to dislodge the hub as it is also easy to damage the hub if a press is used to remove the drum.

I have seen more than a few hubs damaged by well meaning; but unknowing
people and shops.

New studs are needed as the centers of the repop drums are thicker as they are full cast drums vs the original composite drums. The new studs are serrated and are pressed into the hub, when you are done, the drum will slide on and off like newer cars.

[Talkwrench]

Thanks Rich, now I get it.
I do have an option, A fellow rodder here said he has the complete new MT front brake setup .. He said bring a fistful of cash and I can have it.. that means $1600. phew! but that would be about what it would cost here in AUD.

Anyone have this setup and was the original master cylinder OK with the setup, the wheel cylinders are obviously different..?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Here's what the MT drums look like. When you open the box, it feels like Santa Clause has arrived early.

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

Thanks Rich, now I get it.
I do have an option, A fellow rodder here said he has the complete new MT front brake setup .. He said bring a fistful of cash and I can have it.. that means $1600. phew! but that would be about what it would cost here in AUD.

Anyone have this setup and was the original master cylinder OK with the setup, the wheel cylinders are obviously different..?

19Fordy (above) actually runs the MT parts on his black '40 coupe and loves them. Another 'Barner (Heard) runs the MTs on the front of his '36 3-window and loves them. They work very well with the Lockheed brakes still on the rear axle, too. The MTs are the absolute BEST option you have.......period! DD

[cas3]

1600!!! drums are 135 ea, studs are 17.50, shipping was high because they are heavy, and i know you are a long ways from califunny, but total to my door for 2 drums and studs was 339, a month ago. not mentioned here yet is you also need to ream the stud holes to .600, and grind a flat spot like the original studs. not a big deal, and not 1600 dollars worth of shop time. they are actually made by Boling Brothers inc, 559 562 5840, or google up MT products, nice folks on the phone, you'll be glad you did

[Talkwrench]

I'm about to ring the guy here and discuss further about what he has . The $1600 is inc the backing plates, hubs the lot. Just had the shipping price come back from Bolling bros $340 USD ! so with a set of drums and studs is $290 + 340 = $630 USD. now in AUD = $830. plus a bit.. So it might look like in for a penny in for a pound!

I have found a set of drums but not sure of year I'll put up another post . Also Bolling bros said I have to use 40 -41 hubs with their drums .. Why are they not all the same 39 - 48 ???

[A bones]

Originally Posted by cas3

1600!!! drums are 135 ea, studs are 17.50, shipping was high because they are heavy, and i know you are a long ways from califunny, but total to my door for 2 drums and studs was 339, a month ago.

He did not say drums. He said "setup". Which is why he needs info of master compatible with wheel cylinders.

[Kahuna]

On my 32 Tudor, I have the Lincolns (12" x 1 3/4") in Front and Ford 9" (11" x 2 1/4") rears on a 36 axle.
I use a 1967 Ford Mustang single master cylinder. Works fine

[cas3]

the different hubs are that 40-42 ish, the drum mounts over the outside of the hub. the post war drums mount on the inside of the hub, so if looking at the rig on the car, you will see the wheel mounts against a flange, not the drum itself like the pre war hubs. just to ramble some more, you also will need to have the new drums trued on a brake lathe. no such thing as a perfect hub, so you mount the drums and take it to your local parts store and have the assembly cut to be true. here, my store was 18 bucks a shot. once they are trued i like to take a small drill, 1/8 inch or so and make a mark on one stud end and the drum near by to locate the drum if you ever take it off. thats the plus of these style drums that you can remove the drum without messing with the bearings. a couple good wacks with your palm and they come off. also, they are thicker so can be cut to 090 oversize as opposed to 060 on original drums. also, they have the ribs cast in like lincolns and pickups. and, they are perfect. i just wiped them off with accetone and then paint. no ruff castings or machine marks, santa clause would not deliver bad parts!

[Talkwrench]

Well look what I just did.. I got them a little cheaper and they are the vented backing plates, even Sooty approves. Not real happy about the linings though they are between 1 3/4" and 2"? .. What are they trying to save money geez..

I'll report and see how good they are..

[A bones]

Good move, congratulations. Use them in good health.

Now we're talking high performance! (yeah they could be wider, but the effort will be notably different)