The Ford Barn

pesobill · 03-20-2016, 10:21 AM

I have a 55 Customline, 272, Fordomatic, stk 2bbl. Would anyone with a similar car please provide a photo or two of their carb linkage setup? Or, if you have a diagram that would be great also. A previous owner at one time had a two 2bbls setup and I'm having difficulty figuring out what is stock and what may have been cobbled.
Also, my accelerator pump linkage arm will not stay attached to the 3 hole "cam" that operates the pump. How is that held together - is there a snap ring or?

Thanks very much!

Daves55Sedan · 03-22-2016, 12:16 AM

I have that same factory original setup with the Ford EBU carburetor. I will try to take some photos tomorrow.
The accelerator pump link has a long pin and a short pin at the backside. The long pin snaps into the accelerator pump actuating rod. The factory installed a little wire clip at the back to hold it in but you should not need it. The short pin fits into the 3-hole cam. It is a precision fit and should not come out unless it is forced during disassembly. If your link is falling off, there is something wrong. I would speculate the flat part of the link is bent. It should be perfectly straight. If it is not, it will not stay in the hole.

pesobill · 03-22-2016, 06:04 PM

Daves55, I look forward to your photos - thank you. There have definitely been some things done to the linkage that do not look stock (tack welding pieces, etc). Also, you are correct. The link is slightly bent and is not staying in any one of the 3 holes. Would you suggest removing the carb to try and bend it back or is it safe to proceed with the carb on the car? BTW, which hole have you found works best. I can barely read it but it looks like the carb is a Ford EC or ECG 1-1/16.
Thanks again.

Daves55Sedan · 03-25-2016, 01:56 PM

You need to remove the carb to remove the link. It only takes 10 minutes to remove the carb so no big deal. After the carb is off, look on the backside of the link at top pin to see if it has the little spring clip. If it does, pull it out with needle-nosed pliers. now use a very small screwdriver to pry the link off the accelerator pump actuator rod by placing the tip behind the link just under the top pin.
It may be necessary to set the link in a vice with spacers to prevent the link from being bent improperly. Or, you could set the link on a piece of 1/2" square steel stock and use a square punch with flat end to hammer it straight.

Daves55Sedan · 03-25-2016, 02:20 PM

Photos of carb linkage below. 6 photos. scroll page to the right to see all photos

Daves55Sedan · 03-25-2016, 02:29 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

As you can see in the photo, I am using the middle hole. It is for normal weather conditions. The other two holes are for hot and cold weather conditions.
I just leave my link in the middle hole year around. Remember that changing the position of the link may require re-adjustment of the Ford-O-Matic passing gear link. That adjustment is crucial to the proper operation of the transmission. A maladjusted passing gear link can cause damage to a Ford-O-Matic. Best thing to do is to make all carb linkage adjustments in accordance with the Ford-O-Matic shop manual and lastly to adjust the passing gear link. Then leave it alone forever.

scicala · 03-25-2016, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

As you can see in the photo, I am using the middle hole. It is for normal weather conditions. The other two holes are for hot and cold weather conditions.
I just leave my link in the middle hole year around. Remember that changing the position of the link may require re-adjustment of the Ford-O-Matic passing gear link. That adjustment is crucial to the proper operation of the transmission. A maladjusted passing gear link can cause damage to a Ford-O-Matic. Best thing to do is to make all carb linkage adjustments in accordance with the Ford-O-Matic shop manual and lastly to adjust the passing gear link. Then leave it alone forever.

How does changing the hole position of the accel pump link change the Fordomatic downshift linkage adjustment ? I don't understand that one ?

Sal

pesobill · 03-25-2016, 07:22 PM

Daves55sedan - thanks very much for all this info and the photos. This will get me heading in the right direction. My linkage setup is definitely different. I have enough nerve to ask one more favor: When you get a chance one or two more photos with the air cleaner off showing all linkage from the carb back to the firewall. I do not have a dashpot - apparently the previous owner didn't think it was needed. Thanks again.

Daves55Sedan · 03-30-2016, 05:19 PM

See attached two photos. This is the best I can do.

pesobill · 03-30-2016, 09:38 PM

Daves55sedan- Again thanks very much - this is very helpful. Now I'll set about figuring what is not original - there is definite differences in our linkage. It's probably part of my problem which is sticky linkage. Lubed the crap out of it and still hangs up. I have springs were you don't, etc. I think the linkage is just binding on itself because it's not standard.

Daves55Sedan · 03-31-2016, 11:45 PM

Not pictured is the 2-hole bracket that holds the gas pedal crank on the firewall. Not possible to get a picture because it is behind the engine. But you can see the top part of the crank lever sticking up where the accelerator link attaches to the crank in one of the photos.
You need to have the dashpot for Ford-O-Matics. It is an anti-stall device.
I strongly suggest getting a copy of the '55 or '56 Ford-O-Matic shop manual for proper adjustment of the passing gear link.

03-20-2016, 10:21 AM	#1
pesobill Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Brush Prairie, Washington Posts: 14	55 Customline 2bbl linkage problem I have a 55 Customline, 272, Fordomatic, stk 2bbl. Would anyone with a similar car please provide a photo or two of their carb linkage setup? Or, if you have a diagram that would be great also. A previous owner at one time had a two 2bbls setup and I'm having difficulty figuring out what is stock and what may have been cobbled. Also, my accelerator pump linkage arm will not stay attached to the 3 hole "cam" that operates the pump. How is that held together - is there a snap ring or? Thanks very much! Last edited by pesobill; 03-20-2016 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Changed Title

03-22-2016, 12:16 AM	#2
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: 55 Customline 2bbl linkage problem I have that same factory original setup with the Ford EBU carburetor. I will try to take some photos tomorrow. The accelerator pump link has a long pin and a short pin at the backside. The long pin snaps into the accelerator pump actuating rod. The factory installed a little wire clip at the back to hold it in but you should not need it. The short pin fits into the 3-hole cam. It is a precision fit and should not come out unless it is forced during disassembly. If your link is falling off, there is something wrong. I would speculate the flat part of the link is bent. It should be perfectly straight. If it is not, it will not stay in the hole.

03-22-2016, 06:04 PM	#3
pesobill Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Brush Prairie, Washington Posts: 14	Re: 55 Customline 2bbl linkage problem Daves55, I look forward to your photos - thank you. There have definitely been some things done to the linkage that do not look stock (tack welding pieces, etc). Also, you are correct. The link is slightly bent and is not staying in any one of the 3 holes. Would you suggest removing the carb to try and bend it back or is it safe to proceed with the carb on the car? BTW, which hole have you found works best. I can barely read it but it looks like the carb is a Ford EC or ECG 1-1/16. Thanks again.

03-25-2016, 01:56 PM	#4
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: 55 Customline 2bbl linkage problem You need to remove the carb to remove the link. It only takes 10 minutes to remove the carb so no big deal. After the carb is off, look on the backside of the link at top pin to see if it has the little spring clip. If it does, pull it out with needle-nosed pliers. now use a very small screwdriver to pry the link off the accelerator pump actuator rod by placing the tip behind the link just under the top pin. It may be necessary to set the link in a vice with spacers to prevent the link from being bent improperly. Or, you could set the link on a piece of 1/2" square steel stock and use a square punch with flat end to hammer it straight.

03-25-2016, 02:20 PM	#5
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: 55 Customline 2bbl linkage problem Photos of carb linkage below. 6 photos. scroll page to the right to see all photos Last edited by Daves55Sedan; 03-25-2016 at 02:30 PM.

03-25-2016, 02:29 PM	#6
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: 55 Customline 2bbl linkage problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) As you can see in the photo, I am using the middle hole. It is for normal weather conditions. The other two holes are for hot and cold weather conditions. I just leave my link in the middle hole year around. Remember that changing the position of the link may require re-adjustment of the Ford-O-Matic passing gear link. That adjustment is crucial to the proper operation of the transmission. A maladjusted passing gear link can cause damage to a Ford-O-Matic. Best thing to do is to make all carb linkage adjustments in accordance with the Ford-O-Matic shop manual and lastly to adjust the passing gear link. Then leave it alone forever.

03-25-2016, 07:22 PM	#8
pesobill Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Brush Prairie, Washington Posts: 14	Re: 55 Customline 2bbl linkage problem Daves55sedan - thanks very much for all this info and the photos. This will get me heading in the right direction. My linkage setup is definitely different. I have enough nerve to ask one more favor: When you get a chance one or two more photos with the air cleaner off showing all linkage from the carb back to the firewall. I do not have a dashpot - apparently the previous owner didn't think it was needed. Thanks again.

03-30-2016, 05:19 PM	#9
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: 55 Customline 2bbl linkage problem See attached two photos. This is the best I can do.

03-30-2016, 09:38 PM	#10
pesobill Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Brush Prairie, Washington Posts: 14	Re: 55 Customline 2bbl linkage problem Daves55sedan- Again thanks very much - this is very helpful. Now I'll set about figuring what is not original - there is definite differences in our linkage. It's probably part of my problem which is sticky linkage. Lubed the crap out of it and still hangs up. I have springs were you don't, etc. I think the linkage is just binding on itself because it's not standard.

03-31-2016, 11:45 PM	#11
Daves55Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Granite City, Illinois Posts: 3,008	Re: 55 Customline 2bbl linkage problem Not pictured is the 2-hole bracket that holds the gas pedal crank on the firewall. Not possible to get a picture because it is behind the engine. But you can see the top part of the crank lever sticking up where the accelerator link attaches to the crank in one of the photos. You need to have the dashpot for Ford-O-Matics. It is an anti-stall device. I strongly suggest getting a copy of the '55 or '56 Ford-O-Matic shop manual for proper adjustment of the passing gear link.