Stromberg RF carb info

[Bruce Compton, Canada]

I have a decent running Stromberg "RF" on my '25, and would like to fine tune it. Apparently there were literally tens of thousands of these carbs sold and used back in the day, but there is virtually no remaining literature or technical information on them. I would really like to know what the float or fuel level should be, and how to check it. If I knew the exact fuel level, I would consider modifying the bowl by installing a "sight plug" like they used in all the old Holley 4V carbs. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks : Bruce

[23hack]

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages...tml?1382298754 This is only one thread . There are many more there. Search : Stromberg rf mtfca forum Look for postings by Stan Howe, suspect all others.

[redmodelt]

Stans the man when it comes to Stromberg Model T carbs. This is his web site;
http://www.strombergof.com/Stromberg_RF_Photos.php

[Bruce Compton, Canada]

Thanks guys, but I've been searching the MTFCA site as well as Fordbarn for over a year and there is nothing about the actual float or fuel level. I've also talked to Stan many times and he says that the level "isn't critical" although he has helped and encouraged in other ways. I tried setting the float with the soldered seam parallel to the body, but it leaks (slightly overflows), so that setting is too high. I just thought that with so many of these units out there, surely someone would have some info they could pass on . Thanks : Bruce

[redmodelt]

Bruce;
I think almost if not all the Strombergs with the float bowl like yours adjust the same. OF's, LF's L's M's etc. As I recall holding the needle with a screw driver and turning the collier down that the levers ride in lowers the fuel level in the bowl. This might be a trial and error till you get it right. While there may be a number in one of the books and because of wear in the parts would only serve to get you in the ball park anyway. These carbs are known to drip some on shut down and as long as it's running good, install a shut off at the carb.
Found this from 2005 MTFCA forum;
Two more comments I forgot above to those initially adjusting their OF's that is not in the manuals.
(1)You adjust the gas level in the float chamber by taking off the acorn nut on the float chamber cap. Under the acorn nut you will see the threaded top of the float needle and a smaller nut. By placing a tiny screwdriver at the top of the float needle you then run the smaller nut up or down the threads to adjust the gas level. The more threads you see above the nut the higher the gas level will be in the bowl when you let the needle move up and down on its own by the action of the floats. Be forwarned that the threads on the float needle may no longer fit tightly on the small nut and during operation and vibration the nut may eventually thread its way down the float needle and lower the gas level in the bowl until the engine stops from lack of gas. This happened to me 7 miles from home one time. I eventually adjusted the nut back to a good level and then applied one drop of loc-tite to the threads and the small nut has not moved now for two years.

One more thing to add; I looked at my copy of the LF manual I have (very hard to read) in my photo file, I don't see anything about float adjustment in it. It was factory set. Dykes motor manual might have more info.

[Bruce Compton, Canada]

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Thanks for your input, but my carb is an "RF" and has a float setup very similar to a Model A. There is quite a bit of info for Stromberg OF carbs and Stan's web site has a picture of all the RF parts but gives no other info. Ironically, I had an original Stromberg manual several years ago and gave it to a model T guy at Hershey as I thought I would never need it, Sure wish I had it back. Thanks again : Bruce

[dropacent]

Bruce, working on one right now . I've had 3 and really like them over an OF for a late car. I cannot help on float level, but perhaps there are other issues. There area lot of passages in these that can get crud in them. Mine spent several days in a watchmakers ultrasonic cleaner, and still had crud. There was one passage that had what I thought was just a plug. It turned out to be the gasoline sediment tube, and I expect an important part. I ended up getting it out, but ruined it in the process. There was a lot mre crud in there. This all in a carb that worked, but not where I thought it should. I am going to make a new tube, as likely I will never find one, so hope that really makes it perform as I hope. It's a bit difficult to work on these without any drawings and instructions as the OF has, but they are very similar. If you do not have OF instructions, I can send to you. Good luck!

[dropacent]

This may be why the RF carb book is so elusive. Here it is, marked the Stromberg aeroplane carb. Sorry for the poor pics, it's as good as I can get.

[dropacent]

RV carb

[dropacent]

Rf carb

[dropacent]

RF carb

[Bruce Compton, Canada]

Hi dropacent : I did the same thing on my RF, and drilled off the top of the actual idle jet thinking it was only a plug. I have several idle jets for some later model of Stromberg carb that can be used as a replacement and only require the lower hole being enlarged from 0.023" to 0.028". The actual thread size is 1/4 -28. I can send you a modified one if you want. Bruce

[redmodelt]

Well duh on me! That's what I get for assuming that the RF's were like the other Strombergs of the era. I have looked at them but never really noticed that they don't have the adjustment on the bowl cover.