wireless lower plate

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Rex_A_Lott

Since the notch for the rotor button is made into the points cam, wouldnt it always be oriented correctly? Assuming you timed it the way you're supposed to with the timing pin.
Anyhow, I think its pretty neat that he made it run with what he could find, even if it wasnt the correct stuff.
How many of us would have just given up and said " I'll have to wait until I get the right parts?"...I must admit, I will "rig" some things, but I probably wouldnt have attempted that one.

By moving the points location you change when they open, so the rotor will move to a different place in relation to the cap. As I understand it some of the repro modern points plates had the points located wrong.

[GB SISSON]

I guess then that I was just lucky. When I started, I assumed that the cam, being totally on it's own would never be an issue. Upon assembly, I did find it interesting to get it right with the timing pin. In the end I may not have full control of spark, but seems to sound about like my last AA. Will knock on hill at full advance, and idle real slow at retard. Thanks for the support and kind words.

[Rex_A_Lott]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

By moving the points location you change when they open, so the rotor will move to a different place in relation to the cap. As I understand it some of the repro modern points plates had the points located wrong.

I see what you mean. That would really suck to buy something and try to make it work, when it was never going to work.

[jerry shook]

Well lot of negative talk about the wireless lower plate. I have had one in my 30 cope for to many years to remember never had a problem. Just saying.

[CountrySquire55]

My 31 Slant Town Sedan has a wireless lower plate and, knock on wood, over 11,000 trouble-free miles using it.

[John/CT]

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Originally Posted by Quigley1930

I have the wireless bottom plate and the original upper with the acorn nut that rubs the lower plate I have 6V at the points which are new and gapped at .20 but cannot get the spark to jump the points. Would this be caused by the lower plate. I have a nice spark at the end of the coil wire.

Sewall Tyler

Make sure the copper contact in your lower plate does not move relative to the steel backing plate. Remove the lower plate, hold it in a vice by the steel base and try to wiggle the copper contact plate back and forth. I have found the brass rivets were not crimped enough on a few NuRex lower plates and the copper contact plate moved slightly pushing the rivet against the steel base plate and gounding out the primary ignition. Try to center the rivets in their holes with their insulating washers centered in place. Then, using a punch and a small anvil under the rivet head, crimp the rivets in their proper place.

John

[Quigley1930]

John thanks for your idea as to my possible problem. Will check it out tomorrow and get back you.

Sewall

[fiddlybits]

Thanks for all the input.
I put in the wireless. It's brass on brass and I put a thin film of dielectric grease on it. Since the ignition circuit already has three other contact points and two of them involve steel I figured this would be the least of my worry. (armored cable contact to lower detent and the upper plate ground to the distributor body both have steel. The ignition switch is brass.)
Before taking it out on the road I rotated the upper plate 3-400 times while monitoring resistance between the plates. The resistance did not vary and the brass had no marks on it.
I've run a couple of hundred miles on it so far and not a skip. Now, only time will tell.

[barnstuf]

My log book shows I put the wireless in my distributor June 24, 1994. About 1,000 miles per year, no problem yet. My "modern" points went on the original upper plate but I had to do some grinding of the plate in the installation process. Having said all that it would be my luck to have a failure in this years July 4th parade but I have not had any trouble in the 20 years since installation.