wireless lower plate

[Purdy Swoft]

There are two styles of wireless lower plates. There is the style that is used with the V8 points that is nothing but a problem. The wireless lower plate that is designed for use with the original points is a way better idea than the wire that was originally used . There is no doubt a lot of confusion between the two different wireless lower plates. I have used the acorn nut style wireless lower plates for nearly 20 years with no problems . The style that I have uses a brass acorn nut and there is nothing to fail. The other style uses a brass strip that can and does short against the distributor housing. The plate that uses the acorn nut has been fail safe for me. Unless a person drives with their hand on the spark lever, constantly moving it untill they wear a groove through the lower plate, there should be no problem. Unlike the V8 points style wireless lower plate the acorn nut contacts the special lower plate at all times, the acorn nut can not short against anything and is fail safe unless unreasonably used . If a person runs a compression ratio that is so high that constant movement of the spark lever is needed, the practical approach would be a centrifugal advance distributor.

[Will Ziegler in LI NY]

It's like most modifications, some hate, others love it. I have run one for 30 years and have not had a problem (probably should not have said that, because I've now jinxed myself.

Mine has a brass ring on the lower plate and copper spring arm that attaches to the original style points.

[Duffy1]

Everyone in our club that has wireless plate has had problems and no longer run wireless plate .

[fiddlybits]

Ooooooooookay.....thanks for the input.

But should I go with the detergent or non-detergent wireless lower?

[Quigley1930]

I have the wireless bottom plate and the original upper with the acorn nut that rubs the lower plate I have 6V at the points which are new and gapped at .20 but cannot get the spark to jump the points. Would this be caused by the lower plate. I have a nice spark at the end of the coil wire.

Sewall Tyler

[Tom Wesenberg]

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When the points and condenser are working correctly there will be little to no spark at the points. If you have good spark at the end of the coil wire, then the ignition primary circuit is fine, as well as the secondary circuit up to the end of the coil wire.

If the plugs aren't firing then the problem could be in the rotor, distributor cap & body or the spark plug.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by George Miller

A 160 strand would even be better than a 100 strand.
Where do you get the 160 strand Tom.

Check with a hobby shop for wire for electric RC cars. I've seen 12 ga at 720 strands.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Thse wiress contarptions WILL wear out, arc, & fart out in time!!!! A quality 100 strand wire, with terminal ends soldered on & installed properly, will function well for you & the next 2 or 3 owners!!!
Bill W.

[Quigley1930]

Tom thank you for your reply. I tried a known good body, cap and rotor and still had no luck. Then tried a known good dizy and it fired right up and I could see a nice park at the points. Have no idea what is wrong with the other one. Have not tried a new condenser which I'll do tomorrow.

Sewall Tyler

[Purdy Swoft]

There is a good possibility that the metal wire end of the lower plate wire is grounding out against the housing , where it connects under the points, This is a common problem with the wire setup if the tab of the wire end isn't bent and positioned just right. One advantage of the wireless lower plate is there is no wire to short out for any reason . The upper plate can be removed and replaced with no concern for wire connection. The acorn nut style connection with original style points has never given a problem in nearly 20 years in my use . I've had wire setups give problems in much less time. I'm not one to use the spark lever a whole lot and wear is kept to a minimum. Deb and I took the roadster out for a spin late this afternoon and it run really good. the wireless lower plate works for me.

[fiddlybits]

Sitting at the bench this afternoon with a distributer in front of me and it occurred to me that the ground side of the upper plate is already "wireless" since it seeks ground through the three tabs that slide in the groove that holds the plate captive. (And that's steel to steel)

Seems to me that making the ignition side wireless, with better conductive metals, if installed right, should not degrade the system at all.

Just sayin........

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by fiddlybits

Sitting at the bench this afternoon with a distributer in front of me and it occurred to me that the ground side of the upper plate is already "wireless" since it seeks ground through the three tabs that slide in the groove that holds the plate captive. (And that's steel to steel)

Seems to me that making the ignition side wireless, with better conductive metals, if installed right, should not degrade the system at all.

Just sayin........

You also have the center hole and a good spring pressing against the top plate. Also make sure the head and distributor shaft that fit into the head are free of rust and paint, so it provides a good ground.

[George Miller]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Check with a hobby shop for wire for electric RC cars. I've seen 12 ga at 720 strands.

Thanks

[amodel25]

I bought one in 1982 from a club member who was making them to sell. It's still in use today and never caused me a bit of trouble.

[jrelliott]

I had the wireless and converted mine back to the original design with the wire. No more problems. Believe in the KISS principle(Keep it Simple Stupid). Restore it like original and will last longer than I will.

[rons49]

I have had my wireless in my DIST since 1991 when in 28 degree weather the pig tail broke .... fortunately in my drive way. I use the lever as it should be used, not just full retard or full advance. Never an issue.

[GB SISSON]

I an new to your great site, but have been fixing old cars for 40 years.About a month ago I bought an AA with a lot of parts missing. I was able to come up with 3 distributors but no top plate except one with the bakelite broken out. I was anxious to try to start it so I went to my napa store which is only parts store on this island. I asked to look at some ignition points that were insulated bushing type. The second set he showed me I thought would work. I got a condensor too while I was there. I drilled and tapped the top plate to suit the points and condensor. Then I took the wire from a cell phone charger and using 2 pieces in tandem (I wasn't sure one run would carry the load), I ran it up the arm of the advance lever and to the coil. It isn't super pretty, but the truck started on the second revolution of the hand crank. I have been careful in routing the wire and it seems like it would last quite some time in this application. I kept the box tops from napa so I know what points and condensor to use if I need more. My wireless top plate story. I didn't even know there was a debate about such things when I did it....

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I an new to your great site, but have been fixing old cars for 40 years.About a month ago I bought an AA with a lot of parts missing. I was able to come up with 3 distributors but no top plate except one with the bakelite broken out. I was anxious to try to start it so I went to my napa store which is only parts store on this island. I asked to look at some ignition points that were insulated bushing type. The second set he showed me I thought would work. I got a condensor too while I was there. I drilled and tapped the top plate to suit the points and condensor. Then I took the wire from a cell phone charger and using 2 pieces in tandem (I wasn't sure one run would carry the load), I ran it up the arm of the advance lever and to the coil. It isn't super pretty, but the truck started on the second revolution of the hand crank. I have been careful in routing the wire and it seems like it would last quite some time in this application. I kept the box tops from napa so I know what points and condensor to use if I need more. My wireless top plate story. I didn't even know there was a debate about such things when I did it....

That is almost how the modern points are mounted on the plate and yours look like modern Ford parts. If you will run the wire down through the opening under the point contact and out the hole for the ignition wire, you won't have to have it taped to the timing lever. Also, that is not exactly "Wireless" since you do have a wire. The system being discussed here does not have a wire connecting the top plate to the bottom plate and ignition system.

[Tom Wesenberg]

The relationship between the cam notch for the rotor and the fiber points block is very important in where to mount the points. If you weren't paying attention to the relationship, then you sure got lucky, because the trailing edge of the rotor needs to be in line with the distributor body contact when the points start to open with the spark lever full up.

[Rex_A_Lott]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The relationship between the cam notch for the rotor and the fiber points block is very important in where to mount the points. If you weren't paying attention to the relationship, then you sure got lucky, because the trailing edge of the rotor needs to be in line with the distributor body contact when the points start to open with the spark lever full up.

Since the notch for the rotor button is made into the points cam, wouldnt it always be oriented correctly? Assuming you timed it the way you're supposed to with the timing pin.
Anyhow, I think its pretty neat that he made it run with what he could find, even if it wasnt the correct stuff.
How many of us would have just given up and said " I'll have to wait until I get the right parts?"...I must admit, I will "rig" some things, but I probably wouldnt have attempted that one.