Any tricks to fitting a new distributor?

[Lefty W.]

I am attempting to replace my old distributor with a new one. The old distributor has the one-piece shaft, and it drops right in. It fits kind of loose, and the distributor wobbles a bit when the engine is running.

I was wanting to try to use a new distributor with the modern top plate/points/condensor and two-piece shaft. My problem is that I can't seem to get the shaft to fit correctly onto the drive gear. I know the slot in the shaft is off-set, and I can see the position of the drive gear spline when I look down into the hole, and I think I'm putting the shaft in the correct position, but it doesn't seem to want to go down all of the way.

Does anybody have any tricks to getting a new shaft and distributor to fit?

[Jim Parker Toronto]

You could chamfer the leading edge of the shaft to help it get started easier! Just take a little off the edge. Perhaps measure both of the blades to make sure they are the same thickness.... Jim

[Dick Deegan]

Lefty;

If my memory serves me correctly (which it probably does not) the lower shaft only goes in one way. In other words the part of the shaft that goes into the dizzy will not go into the drive in the oil galley. Turn the shaft over and it should go in.

Dick

[Kurt in NJ]

If the hole in the block is rusty/sludged debris can fall on the top of the drive gear making it hard to install a new shaft.
It's possible that you could have to remove the valve cover to clean the drive gear tang recess.
Also what you think is a 1 piece shaft can be a 2 piece rusted together

[Lefty W.]

Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto

You could chamfer the leading edge of the shaft to help it get started easier! Just take a little off the edge. Perhaps measure both of the blades to make sure they are the same thickness.... Jim

Good idea. I will try that to see if it helps.

Originally Posted by Dick Deegan

Lefty;

If my memory serves me correctly (which it probably does not) the lower shaft only goes in one way. In other words the part of the shaft that goes into the dizzy will not go into the drive in the oil galley. Turn the shaft over and it should go in.

Dick

On mine, both ends of the shaft will fit into the distributor. Perhaps the same is not true for the drive gear side. I'll try either end of the shaft to see if that helps.

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

Also what you think is a 1 piece shaft can be a 2 piece rusted together

You're probably right. The shaft on the old distributor is pretty rusty.

[Ron in Quincy]

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It should not make any difference which end of the lower shaft you put down, both ends are the same for the drive gear and the distributor. Check that both ends of the lower shaft will go into the distributor, if so, than you probable have rust or somthing else in the drive end.

Ron

[Gary WA]

Are you sure you have the pin on the bottom of the dizzy going into the hole on the head??

[Lefty W.]

Originally Posted by Gary WA

Are you sure you have the pin on the bottom of the dizzy going into the hole on the head??

That's exactly the problem. Without the shaft in place, the distributor casting will fit into the head with the locating pin in its corresponding hole, but when I try it with the shaft, the distributor won't insert far enough in for the pin to even reach its hole. I figure the shaft is not being seated properly on the drive gear.

[Milton]

Put the lower shaft into the distributor and measure the length. Compare it to the old distributor shaft. Let me know the outcome.

[Dick So. Cal.]

Something I ran into when doing the same operation.
Over the years, both the block and the head may have been surfaced. This makes the distance from the bottom of the distributer to the top of the drive gear shorter thus making the drive shaft too long. I had to grind a bit off the shaft to let the distributer sit flush on the head. Just a thought.
And, as mentioned, rust and junk may make the fit a little tight.
Also, why don't you dip both ends of the shaft in grease before you install it. It would help with wear and might prevent a little corrosion.
Just a thought.

Dick

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Maybe old shaft was stuck in drive gear and pulled drive gear up some. Try a wood dowel and tap down on drive gear.

[Lefty W.]

Originally Posted by Milton

Put the lower shaft into the distributor and measure the length. Compare it to the old distributor shaft. Let me know the outcome.

The total length of both distributors and shafts appear to be the same.



But I think I have discovered the problem.



The slot in the new shaft measures 9/32" deep, while the slot in the old shaft is 12/32" (3/8") deep.

This appears to be what is keeping the distributor from seating on the head.



Dang repop parts...

[hardtimes]

Yup, obvious slot difference...could/would make a difference.
BTW..I smear a copious amount of 'never seize' all over the shafts..top to bottom , before final install. This has prevented the eventual rust problems caused by condensation,etc on bare shaft. And, do again, each time removed for whatever reason. Gook luck

[1931 flamingo]

Do both ends of the shaft have the same indent??
Paul in CT

[Milton]

Originally Posted by Lefty W.

I am attempting to replace my old distributor with a new one. The old distributor has the one-piece shaft, and it drops right in. It fits kind of loose, and the distributor wobbles a bit when the engine is running.

Looking at the photos that you posted I betcha that the drive shaft is rusted into the dist shaft socket.

If the new shaft slot is off by 3/32" double that for 3/16" and if that is the gap under the dist you just might have the solution. Looking at the slot picture there are some shiny spots at the very bottom which make the shaft appear to be flared out at the bottom or it could be debris in the drive gear socket holding the shaft up while it was being turned.

[Lefty W.]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Do both ends of the shaft have the same indent??
Paul in CT

Yes, both ends of the new shaft have the same slot measurement (9/32"). The socket in the bottom of the distributor has the same measurement, so the shaft appears to be seating all of the way in the distributor. Although I was able to get the shaft to fit into the spline on the drive gear, it clearly is not going down far enough. I'll get the shaft machined a bit and report back.

[Lefty W.]

Update:

I ground the slots in the distributor shaft a bit deeper on each end. The shaft fits in the drive gear, but the distributor body just won't get seated on the head. In fact, it won't go any lower than it did before I made the shaft slots deeper. I am officially puzzled.

[Bob C]

Have you tried putting the old distributor back in to see if it fits?
That would tell you if there is junk in the drive gear slot.

Bob

[james hitchcock]

Could it be the pin on the distributor body that's a bit too big ? Just over in size enough to keep from going in.

[Lefty W.]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Have you tried putting the old distributor back in to see if it fits?
That would tell you if there is junk in the drive gear slot.

Bob

That's the puzzling thing... the old distributor slips right in, no obstructions, it actually fits kinda loose and wobbles a bit when the engine is running. The new distributor body will seat correctly without a shaft. The lengths of both distributors with shafts appear to be exactly the same. I'm still getting about a 3/16" gap between the new distributor body and the head. I guess its the continuing curse of using reproduction parts.