Distributor install issues lyb

[B-ster]

Trying to get a distributor installed in my Lincoln y block. It's wicked tight. Bottom of the shaft won't go into the hole where it connects with the oil pump shaft. It came out of a 60 fyb 292 motor and I changed the gear on the shaft. I did mushroom the end getting the gear off but ground it down. If the shaft is supposed to turn, there has to be some clearance in there. What should I do? Thought about holding the distributor body in a vise and turn the shaft with a drill while holding sandpaper on the shaft slowly taking some metal off it evenly until it goes in the hole. Ideas???

[Flathead Fever]

Sometimes on engines, I've had the gears aligned but the distributer won't drop that last bit onto the oil pump shaft. With the gears started I use a remote starter switch and crank the engine while pushing down on the distributor. withing a couple revolution it will drop down onto the shaft. I don't know if your problem is the shaft is not lined up or you screwed up the end of it.

[B-ster]

I don't even have the oil pump or shaft in. Wanted to be sure that wasn't the problem. I just thought a digital caliper so I could measure the original distributor shaft against the new one but being a holiday I haven't gotten to it yet. I remember it was difficult getting the old one out. Just so I know, the shaft has to be able to turn in that hole, right? So there has to be some clearance and it must get lubrication somehow.

[Flathead Fever]

No shaft would definitely eliminate the oil pump shaft as the problem. You hate to grind away on it becuae if you end up with too much clearance it could affect your point gap. I'm not a Y-block guy. What's that shaft go into, the block, oil pump... Could it be something like a misaligned oil pump.

I forget I do have a Y-block I could look at. I bought a complete "F" motor in pieces with everything but the crank and crank pulley. Lots of new spare parts. McColloch dual carb bonnet setup for the supercharger. I cannot even find a photo of one like it. That missing pulley seems to be non-existent. I bought the engine from a 90-year-old neighbor. The rebuilt heads have the correct supercharged casting numbers on them. The guy he bought it from had it as a spare for a '57 supercharged T-bird he dragged raced in the early 1960s. I need to see if it has a "F" vin stamped on the block but I pretty sure it will. I paid a whopping $1600.00 for all of it. I also bought a rebuilt Boss 302 engine with an inline crossboss 4V carb and 427 side oiler built completely from NOS parts from the same neighbor. I got the good friend and neighbor discount.

[B-ster]

The shaft goes to not a small hole that the oil pump shaft goes up through. With nothing in the hole, the dist should've been able to just slide into. Trying to get a measurement from the original distributor and make the new one the same. I tried the old one again and it slid right in. Will be busy tomorrow

[dmsfrr]

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Originally Posted by Flathead Fever

. . . I need to see if it has a "F" vin stamped on the block but I pretty sure it will. ...

Ford didn't put the vin / serial number on the Y-blocks in '57. Maybe later in the 60's for the factory Hi-Po mustangs & such.

If it has markings as being for a '57 supercharged / F-code engine it might be possible???

[miker98038]

Kind of OT for this thread. But that missing crank pulley is probably available, along with other parts. Just the brackets and stuff for an F code bird are really valuable, there’s the odd F code out there missing all those parts.

I’ve got an F code clone using passenger car brackets in my 32 Ford. I had, but sold, the Thunderbird brackets. I’ve still got a VR 57 unit on the shelf.

I’ve seen the dual quad bonnets, but the ones I saw were McCulloch parts used with the VS series units.

If you want more info, pm me. I’ve got some contact info that might be useful.

Nice find. Some pictures of all those items would make a nice thread.

[Dave V]

Didn't you transfer the gear from your Lincoln distributor on to the FYB distributor? If so the shafts should be exactly the same diameter and therefore fit the hole in the block.

[B-ster]

The bottom of the shaft is smaller than the part of the shaft that the gear fits on. That's the part that isn't fitting in the hole. Again, how does it get lubrication? If because it was mushroomed out, would it hurt if just the end was ground in a little taper to allow it to fit in the hole?

[KULTULZ]

... chirp ... chirp ... chirp ...

Message removed. Why do I bother?

Will the boy ever learn ...

[B-ster]

I finally got it in but now the gears up against some set screw looking thing. It looks like it's going into the lifter on 8 cylinder. The distributor is about 1/2 - 3/4" away from being all the way in but it just won't go. I thought the gear might go beneath the screw and spin but it won't. What now?

[dmsfrr]

B-ster, is the original distributor missing? or I'd assume you could have it rebuilt instead of installing a stubborn substitute.

[B-ster]

I wanted to be able to get whatever carb I want so that's why I'm changing the distributor.

[dmsfrr]

Ok, got it. You're replacing the older Loadomatic version with an updated '57+ distributor.

[B-ster]

Yeah. My Lincoln is a 54, distributor is outta 60 Ford 292

[cadillac512]

Isn't that an oil galley plug that the gear is hitting? If so, you'll need to either screw it in a bit or shorten it to get clearance for the gear to go by. Access could be a problem....


Terry

[B-ster]

Yeah, clearance is an issue. There is a plug in the block across from the plug I need to get to. If I knew what the head of the plug I need to screw in is, I could get an angled screwdriver. If I can't get to it that way, I'll have to remove the plug in the block to get to it. It's been sealed so I'd prefer not to remove it. I tried to take pictures of it with my phone but can't get an angle.

[Daves55Sedan]

That plug probably has a square recess on top, or maybe it is a hex key recess, but I doubt it. Probably square. See if you can find a piece of 1/4 inch square bar stock and stick it in there. If that fits, you can take a little 1/4" open-end wrench and turn that plug in. May need to fiddle around with different sizes to get the right one.

[KULTULZ]

'Ya know ... Instead of all of the guessing, maybe break out the WSM and see how that fitting is supposed to be installed. It lubricates the DIST DRIVE.

The machine shop may have had something to do with this.

I did mushroom the end getting the gear off but ground it down. If the shaft is supposed to turn, there has to be some clearance in there. What should I do? Thought about holding the distributor body in a vise and turn the shaft with a drill while holding sandpaper on the shaft slowly taking some metal off it evenly until it goes in the hole.

I remember it was difficult getting the old one out. Just so I know, the shaft has to be able to turn in that hole, right? So there has to be some clearance and it must get lubrication somehow.

[B-ster]

Kultulz, if the wsm is the manual, I looked but couldn't find it. I have a call into my mechanic too. But if you know id appreciate ur input