New Member! Suspension identification
 

Hello gentlemen! Have watched from the shadows and learned a great deal from this forum. Having been raised in a car family I have grown to appreciate the simplicity of an old car. Pop always had a toy in the garage. In the 70s we moved from Ohio back to Missouri and I still see dad's Model A pickup in the back of the Redball trailer. Now for a plea for some guidance! I have recently ventured into the Early V8 world. I have a second owner driver quality 35 5W coupe. I am interested in making this a little more road worthy. I purchased a suspension that was supposed to have come from underneath a 35 with a hydraulic conversion already done. Any help identifying this front and rear suspension would be appreciated. I have attached some picture that I hope offer enough detail to be beneficial. Once we have established the orgin, any good soures for a rebuild kit and drums for thie would be appreciated! Here in SE MO we're looking for some of that winter weather the West coast has sent us!

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

Ok, I'll have a stab at it.

Front axle: 37-40. (Perch pins look like 37 ish - no provision for 40 style anti-sway bar)

Front brakes 39-41(Not sure on the 41. 39, 40 definitely).

Rear axle 37-40

Rear brakes 39-41 (Same as front)

Rear hubs/drums 1935.

Can't see enough of the front drums. It should be noted that the rear drums should only be used with wire wheels.

That should be enough info for when you want to buy things like brake shoes, wheel cylinders, bearings, kingpins, track rod ends etc.

Mart.

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

I agree and you can measure between the perch bolt centers to be sure. 37 to 40 is about 38 in. and 35 and 36 should be about 2 in. less.

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

I think Mart is right on the money with everything he said. Looks like that '35 standard 5w coupe is in excellent condition. Does it have a rumble seat or a trunk? What condition is the existing running gear, suspension and engine in? The only thing I would use from the '37-'41 front and rear ends would be the hydraulic brake components and maybe the ring and pinion gears if they happen to be 3.78 or 3.54 ratios. Put more pictures of the car up if you have them.
Welcome to the Fordbarn!

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

Welcome lots of info here for the picking just ask us. "LOL"

R

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

Thanks for the quick reply Mart! I waited until I could steal the iPad from my youngest to reply. According to your information, and John's input the front axle is not a direct swap as the front is 2" wider than mine. John I bought the old car with the understanding the motor was free? That didn't prove to be the case. Have had ATF in it for about 3 months, but we've had a real winter here in Missouri. Unheated garage has not allowed me to work on it like I want. Original motor, 111,000mi. It has a trunk. Kind of interesting, it has the radio and the manifold heater/defroster. The pictures make it look much nicer than it is. But it's a straight old car. Lived its life in Overland, MO, a suburb of St Louis. Apparently the brakes began to fail as it aged. Has scuffs on the corners, and a mod dent on the right front. Doug

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

Thanks for the welcome!

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

Welcome aboard fellow `35 Ford owner. Coupes hold a special place in my heart.

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

That's not entirely correct, while their are differences in the axle width and
perch pin spacing, the complete front ends do interchange, and in the past was commonly done to get juice brakes.

If it was my project, I would install the later spindles and juice brakes on the '35 front using a new kingpin set and brake parts as needed. In the rear, I would take the hydraulic brakes off the later rear, rebuild as needed, and install them on your axle.

Seems like the correct and probably quickest way to get thru that part of your project, and still keeps the chassis mostly true to original.

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

[QUOTE=51Hardtop;832975] But it's a straight old car. Lived its life in Overland, MO, a suburb of St Louis.

I grew up next door in St.Ann, MO haven't been back in years, looking forward to a Spring trip. As for rebuilding the wheel cylinders and spare parts. I honed mine and they all leaked. I bought NORS parts from Fred at Southside Obsolete in Minnesota. When they arrived I took them apart and one thing I noticed is the inside of the wheel cylinder bore was much smoother, almost polished, than the hone finish I obtained using a standard brake hone. Fred's replacement parts did not leak and have been working great. The Chinese knock-offs have mis-located fluid ports that may cause you grief. When you reassemble, search the threads here, it is easy to displace the pistons and induce a leak if you don't install the brake shoes evenly.

Beautiful car by the way.

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

I agree with Rich, use the spindles, backing plates and drums from the front with a new king pin and bushing set, use the backing plates and drums from the rear and you may want to check the condition of the brake lines, they rust from the inside out. Your also going to need a set of 39 pedals and a master if you did not acquire those parts in your purchase.
I just finished up this conversion on my 36. You can see the upgrade here.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207803

Also the conversion I did on my 35 Coupe a few years back.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=134639

Re: New Member! Suspension identification
 

Welcome, and sweet looking 35. Probably any info you need can be found here.