Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

The problem I had was more to do with mis-installed and damged e-brake carrier than hub stuck on axle. Some of the damage was the result of lug studs being welded into place rather than swedged. All NOS linings and other parts ruined because of the idiot that attempted to rebuild the brakes the first time without fixing the rear axle seal problem and lack of knowledge and possibly tools to do the job right the first time. What a waste. Rod

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Don't know if this was mentioned. Screw a nut on the axle(leave a gap between the
nut and hub) so it won't mushroom and also keeps the drum from jumping off the axle.

Bob

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

I have always been able to get even the most stubborn hub to pop loose by using a knock-off puller made from a nut with a solid piece of plate welded over the end.I have always done it by myself by using 2 large screw drivers & jamming 1 driver on one side between drum & backing plate and 2,nd s- driver on opposite side.With 1 leg pushing on L s-driver & R- leg pushing on the other s-driver,you give the K-O nut a good hit with a 4# hammer.Hit the KO with a strong hit.Wimpy hits will not do any good.After EVERY hit you must retighten the KO,otherwise you can damage the threads on axle.This method has never failed me with the 16 A,s I have had over the years. You should be glad that you have a tight hub.The vast majority are loose & have wider keyways from running with loose hubs.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Mike, do it like Kurt says here. Here's the TRICK: Using the SIMPLE supplied screw on knocker, Rap on a 15" Crescent with a big hammer to tighten it, with that wheel on the ground & the other one jacked up, rap the knocker once only with a BIG hammer, tighten it again with Crescent & hammer & rap it only once again before another big rap, ALWAYS retighten the knocker after each rap! The constant retightening seems to be the SECRET! I've ALWAYS been able to get them off, this way, even on those OLD MOPAR axles.
It even works on a rear end out of the car, if you put a wheel & tire on the hub you're removing.
JUST REMEMBER, HIT ONCE, & TIGHTEN, HIT ONCE & TIGHTEN, HIT ONCE & TIGHTEN!! bILL w.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

I bought the Vintage Precision Inc hub puller and had great results on a VERY stubborn hub. I really like the tool design and construction. For $99 it seems like a good deal. http://vintageprecision.com/products...ers/index.html

My question is how many foot pounds should that hub nut be tightened up to? I keep getting mixed signals on that.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

[QUOTE=lasjts;760868]I bought the Vintage Precision Inc hub puller and had great results on a VERY stubborn hub. I really like the tool design and construction. For $99 it seems like a good deal. http://vintageprecision.com/products...ers/index.html


That looks like a very good tool for the money. My car is all tucked in for the winter, so I'll order one of these when the snow melts and I can get back in to my house and garage - hopefully by May. I've had the car for less than a year and restored the front brakes. The rears work great, but I need to take a look at them. Thanks for the suggestion.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

I just had the very same problem and tried all the suggestions including backing off the castle nut and driving it around. In the end, I had a steering wheel and fan puller that was able to attach and ended up having to "walk" the drum all the way off. Felt like I won the lottery. I also couldn't find a fiber washer ad watched the video on how to grease the wheel bearings online. Try everything but don't be afraid to try something yourself. You'll get there.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

A common garden hose washer will work in a pinch.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Do it EXACTLY like post #24 & it'll come off! Remember to hit it ONLY 1 time, & re-tighten the knocker nut with a 15" Crescent & a rap on it with your BIG hammer.
I've even pulled drums on an old rear end, just layin' on the ground. Just put one old wheel on the drum you're workin' on, then follow my instructions, exactly!
Bill W.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Bob C's advice about putting a nut on the end of the axle so the threaded nipple will not mushroom is very good. The other good thing to do is to insert the shank of a broken drill bit into the cotter-pin hole so that the hits on the end of the axle shaft do not crush and deform the cotter-pin hole. Drill bit to be of same size as hole...

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Getting ready to do this to.. My wife and I are newbs.. just bought our 1st, a 1930 PU.
Thank you for the info.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

I just went thru this over the last week. I tried most of the previously mentioned methods. After removing the axle nuts, washers, and fiber gaskets, I began applying Kroil to the axle. I laid one 3# hammer on one side of the hub and smacking the hub on the other side with another 3# hammer. After a few hits the driver side came off. The passenger side was more stubborn. I reapplied Kroil over several days and repeated the 2 hammer method, while waiting on my puller order from Vintage Precision. The puller arrived and was immediately used. It removed the stubborn hub with just a moderate amount of force, with a mild pop.
The Vintage Precision puller is an "improved" version of the KR puller. Just what this "improvement" might be, I do not know, having never seen a KR. I can say that it is well built and machined, and made in the USA. I did not mind spending the money on the tool, as I am sure that it will be used again.
I might add that the VP puller does come with the thread protection nut, which I did use. There was no damage to the axle thread. I did not use any hammer on the axle thread or to the puller. I was reluctant to use any heat on any of the brake or axle components.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Several years ago I bought a puller that attaches to the lug bolts, and bears on the axle. It works every time. Ask the guys in your club if anyone has one. Good luck, don't break anything.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Do NOT use a lug nut type puller. Good way to ruin a hub.
Do NOT use a hammer of any size. Good way to have to
re-machine the threads and end of an axle.

Take the axle nut off and replace it with a HARD HIGH NUT run down within 3 or 4 threads of the axle.
Use a HIGH QUALITY clamshell type puller.
Pull it up as tight as you can.
PUT ON EAR PROTECTION, this is going to be loud when it comes loose.
Now, use a rosebud or very large tip acetylene torch and heat the exposed part of the hub behind the puller.
Re-tighten the puller as you go. No need to get even dull red.
BANG!
This is about the only way you can get them loose if they have been lapped on as in race cars in the old days.
No buggered threads or bent axle ends either.
DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING TILL ALL COOLS!

And now a word from the soap box.
All early Ford type rear ends should, if used on the street have either bolt on drum clips or weld on safety hubs.
The people you could run into head on in case of an axle failure will thank you and it may even save you having a bashed up fender like if a wheel came off and rolled down the street.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Here is what I use

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Yup, that works good also.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

This is one of those no brainers that I wish I had thought of. Thanks for the tip as it would have saved me hours of time and effort getting the threads back in working order after pulling the drums.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

they can be a real pain in the butt.i do a lot of brake jobs and have had many problems with getting rotors off.got sick of banging them off.went and purchased a hydrolic puller.they come off with ease now.word of caution,stay out of the way because they will fly off with force.

Re: Removing rear brake drum
 

Any pictures of the hydraulic puller?

Could you use it with the nut on but loose?