Hard starting when hot

[bbook]

Skip Haney: I went to www.fordcollector.com and followed the instructions to send the coil to him with a check for $83.00 ($75 rebuild and $8 shipping).

Starter: The strange thing is that when my engine was hot and would not start, the starter was turning much faster than when starting cold. It was what I would expect with 12 volts on a 6 volt starter. Still a bit of a mystery in that regard, but for now, my particular problem appears to have been solved by bypassing the second resistor.

[grumppyoldman]

Is Skip still doing coils, I left phone message and haven't heard back. I want to talk to him before sending my coil to see what he needs from me, and see if he has condensers. Al

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by grumppyoldman

Is Skip still doing coils, I left phone message and haven't heard back. I want to talk to him before sending my coil to see what he needs from me, and see if he has condensers. Al

Skip needs your coil, return address and a check for $85.00. Shipping
cost has been increased. You should also send him a couple condensers
to hot test so you know they don't break down when hot. He also cleans,
disassembles and sets distributors for $50.00 providing they were working
and don't need major parts. When the coil, condenser and distributor are
all done and checked as a unit you can be assured all preform to the
original Ford specs. He uses an original Ford~Heyer distributor machine.
G.M.

[grumppyoldman]

Just got back from post office, my coil is on it's way to Skip. Thanks FB guy's Al

[grumppyoldman]

Think I'll send my dist. to Bubba's because I know nothing about the condition of it. Only had car a couple of months. Al

[1942deluxe]

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Supereal, good advice. My 1948 business coupe had been starting poorly hot for over a year. Skip coil, new battery , correct cables ,ect. Put a new C&G starter on it yesterday and drove it over 25 miles. Started right up hot and I almost can't get my finger off the starter button without it running cold!

[Capt Kirk]

Originally Posted by 1942deluxe

Supereal, good advice. My 1948 business coupe had been starting poorly hot for over a year. Skip coil, new battery , correct cables ,ect. Put a new C&G starter on it yesterday and drove it over 25 miles. Started right up hot and I almost can't get my finger off the starter button without it running cold!

Am I to understand your post that you had a Skips coil, new battery and correct cables (as do I) and the car still started hard when hot? My car struggles cranking when hot and I'm thinking it's the starter. I see the C&G starter comes with a modern bendix...did you use that or replace it with an original?

[1942deluxe]

Capt Kirk, replaced the modern bendix with original. C&G has a video on You Tube if you google "Flathead starter drive replacement" which helped. Correct on starting hard hot. Would have to let it sit for 30-45 minutes at times before it would fire again. Wife said "I think your starter is bad". I hate when she is right. C&G recommends in their catalog that you replace the modern drive with the original. Years ago I was told there is nothing wrong with a 6 volt system IF everything is up to snuff !

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by bbook

I forgot to add that I did send the spare distributor mount coil to Skip Haney for rebuilding, so I can go back to the original style if I want to.

This is the coil you want. It sounds like a coil problem to me. G.M.

[grumppyoldman]

Just got my coil back from Skip, waiting on dist. from Bubbas, sure miss getting back on road. Have rebuilt bango rear end, brakes, cleaned ballast resistor, gas filter, checked compression, and ready to go. Al

[Seth Swoboda]

Folks when your entire ignition system is 100% healthy with a skip coil and distributor has been set up on a timing fixture your hard starting problems should be solved, no mater the ambient temperature. 99% of my flathead starting troubles have been poor ignition components. Vary rarely do I have a fuel supply problem unless I let the tank run out.

[bbook]

I got my rebuilt coil back from Skip Haney and installed it with a F-5 condensor, modified to mount on and wire to the dome style coil, per posts in the archives, and re-connected the resistor under the dash. Even after an extended run at full temperature, the engine starts every time with a very short starter turn. Even though I had already improved the situation with the tube coil by eliminating the dual resistors, it is clear that I have a much stronger spark with the rebuilt coil. Thanks Skip, and thanks Barners.

[fordv8j]

I had the same problem with my 38 coupe, running a 59a engine and a round 50s type coil, tried everything nothing helped, finally called Dick Flynn, he said to bypass the under dash resister, that that coil needed 6 volts, did that, hasn't failed to start in years, no point problems

[VeryTangled]

Hi Everyone. When I read the title, 'Hard starting when hot.' I think... yeah I've got that. Especially my 35 which I am very suspicious of the coil, which will be sent to Florida very soon, but...

A lot of times when I stop, and know I'm going to get started again in the time of over five minutes but less than about an hour, I put one hood side up.

This is a simple thing to do if you think hot starting is what you're trying to troubleshoot.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by fordv8j

I had the same problem with my 38 coupe, running a 59a engine and a round 50s type coil, tried everything nothing helped, finally called Dick Flynn, he said to bypass the under dash resister, that that coil needed 6 volts, did that, hasn't failed to start in years, no point problems

LOL, Yep, it works better when the resistance in the circuit is correct!