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#1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA
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I just received my Gallon of Rust 911 which when mixed could be a lifetime supply.
![]() TIA, Chris
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1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? ![]() |
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#2 |
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Location: SoCal
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Hey Chris, where did you get the Rust 911 from?
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Is this Out-of-the-Kitchen thinking or what?:
1. You think about just finishing a family Thanksgiving Dinner where you picked up all plates and utensils and placed them in a large sink full of hot soapy dish detergent water; and, you wash the dishes in this sink, rinse all with clear water over the adjacent sink, and put dishes aside; and, 2. You now think whether adding this dirty dishwater mixed with greasy food particles to your radiator, will possibly clog your "clean" Model A radiator; and, if so, 3. You think that maybe the cleaning of the dishes may be similar to cleaning greasy chunks of rust from your block when you operate your engine; and, 5. Would it be wise to place some sort of filter in your upper radiator hose to trap greasy block debris from clogging your "clean" radiator? Hmmmmm! A clean block with a clogged radiator? Or is there a Plan B? |
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#4 |
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Location: PASADENA, CA
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If the car has been running with the radiator that is in it, I would put in the Rust 911, run it until black, drain and flush and repeat until the Rust 911 no longer turns black.
Flush again a couple of times and put in distilled water and additive or anti freeze (which I do not like to run in a Model A unless you need it to prevent freezing). If there is a lot of oil residue in the cooling system, you may first want to de-grease the system first. Evidently Rust 911 gets contaminated in the presence of grease and oil and does not work very well. I am going to use Rust 911 in one of my cars with rust in the block. I ordered my Rust 911 directly from their web site. Let us know how it works out for you. Chris W. |
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#5 |
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I would also put a womens stocking in your radiator neck to catch crud you just need the foot part. poke it into the upper radiator tank through the upper neck and then re-attach your upper hose. You will be surprised how much garbage you catch.
(great images from Isaiah Garcia on the MARC Facebook page)
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#6 |
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Your initial post for using any type of chemicals in a Model A block creates thoughts about any Model A owner's use of chemicals. Every now and then some past Model A owners attempted to clean their Model A blocks; however, they sometimes forgot about coolant filtration similar to that shown in above Reply No. 5. Whether one is informed or not of this issue, one may be taking a risk that the cast iron block debris removed can possibly cause partial blockage within the small tubes of a near perfect expensive Model A radiator. Please let us know how well your Rust 911 cleaning procedure worked ..... many Model A owners' eyes will be focused and awaiting your Rust 911 report of results. Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 06-30-2017 at 03:38 PM. Reason: typo |
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#7 |
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Amazon.com
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#8 | |
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#9 | |
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#10 |
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I "heard" that DAWN was a FAILED concoction, it was supposedly formulated to clean a D-8 Caterpillar Engine!!! BUT, it worked SUPER for dishes & black, oily Birds & Wildlife.
Sorta' like the POST-IT "story"---LOL If you ever need to know something, jist ask my Dog ![]() ![]() Bill Researcher
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#11 |
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Hi Chris,
Water can cause cast iron to rust. Rust 911 converts rust and creates a black residue. The black residue mixes with water as the water circulates; hence, the water is black. In trying to answer your question, "My question is does the Rust 911 ever stop getting thick and black?" There is a definite answer one may want to try; but, it may appear asinine! |
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#12 | |
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![]() D8H 46 A..no sissy high track,a mans dozer.. |
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#13 |
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#14 | |
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According to Chatterpillar the high final drive has less shock load due to no ground contact..and according to the engineers (true knowers of things) it has more effective track wrap...from a mechanics point of view the high tracks are easier to work on...but they are way less manly.. |
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#15 |
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Hi Chris,
Not all manufactured coatings provided on cast iron can stop molecules of water from penetrating same; hence, forming ferric oxide is possible. My guess is what may work best is to provide your Rust 911 treatment, then flush with clear water; and repeat Rust 911 treatment and flushing with clear water to your satisfaction. Afterwards, adding 50/50 percent coolant/distilled water, and providing Prestone antifreeze coolant can prevent further Model A block rusting as well as any other manufactured product. There are so many varying Forum "Pro & Con" opinions on any Model A subject that one just has to pick and choose whatever one thinks is best. This is the most "non-asinine" coolant suggestion I can think of ........... prior to a most wonderful July 4th weekend. I hope you have great success with your Rust 911 and have a Happy 4th. Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 06-30-2017 at 10:50 PM. Reason: typo |
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#16 |
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After repeated flushing and a couple days of driving have distributed a fine silt of black particles through the cooling system. Most were small enough that they passed through the nylon stocking in the upper tank. The car is running cool, actually mid range on the temp gauge, during 90 degree weather. I guess more flushing tomorrow morning to try to get the silt out.
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#17 |
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Anyone seen or operated a Model-22 Caterpillar? I could write PAGES & PAGES about my experiences with one!!!---LOL--They were made BEFORE the "D" prefix was used.
Bill Farmer
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#18 |
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#19 |
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I got my crap out of the water jacket the old fashioned way..I yarded the head and cleaned the water jacket with compressed air..sand,rocks,petrified sticks and grass..gotta flow test your radiator too,I back flushed mine,a bunch more came out,got it to drain 4 seconds..when trying to flush and assembled system you chase your own tail,from water jacket to radiator..the crap just migrates..even a stocking doesnt get it all..
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