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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tinley Park Ill
Posts: 1,111
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Vinegar, full strength works well for cleaning out the water jackets, cheap too
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gerrardstown, WV
Posts: 2,292
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I soak my water jackets with vinegar for a couple of days but not the machined surfaces.
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#23 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 1,738
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I dig coal, which provides motivation for EVs. |
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#24 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 5,607
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#25 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 1,738
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You can buy a thread chaser, but a grade 8 bolt will work. Use a cut-off wheel in a dremel to make 1-2 reliefs lengthwise through the threads.
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I dig coal, which provides motivation for EVs. |
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#26 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 5,607
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Quote:
" Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without"
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#27 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 1,738
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I like your thought processes as well. Given a choice, I build rather than buy. Am in the process of conjuring a two gallon gear lube dispenser at this time. Started with a 6" diameter pipe. The actual pump will be a SBF oil pump. I'm going to line the tank with Toolmaster insulating varnish.
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I dig coal, which provides motivation for EVs. |
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#28 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 5,607
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How do you do that? Put water pumps on and cap the snouts?
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 2,617
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Much better than Vinegar is "Evaporust".
Block will look new inside |
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#30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 11,101
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I second the "Evaporust" approach. Here are a couple of pictures of my '51 Merc after 2 soakings in "Rust-911" solution (generic "Evaporust"). I was pretty impressed with how it came out.
I used to use "Evaporust", but switched to "Rust-911" which is a concentrate because it is cheaper to buy and ship. I think it works just fine for my purposes, but if I had an infinite income, I'd probably go back to "Evaporust". Last edited by tubman; 10-10-2016 at 06:16 PM. |
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#31 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tinley Park Ill
Posts: 1,111
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Vinegar was $5.00 for four gallons at the local grocery store
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#32 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 5,607
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Would I do the rod/cable/conduit/shop vac treatment before the evaporust/vinegar douche or after?
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#33 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 1,738
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Before, give whatever chemical you use direct contact with parent metal. You probably have wood bleach. Check to see if it has oxalic acid. You can use that for removing internal rust.
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I dig coal, which provides motivation for EVs. |
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#34 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,518
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Red Paint on the Inside: Another option is Rustoleum Damp Proof primer - just buy a small can, get a small brush and paint all the inside surfaces by hand.
It really doesn't do anything for performance, but it does help seal the surfaces, traps any little bitty crap that was still in the pores of the cast iron and helps to prevent new stuff from sticking. Just make dang sure that the block is really clean - so it sticks! |
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#35 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chelan,Wa.
Posts: 62
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After I remove all the old oil and grease from a flathead, I soak my blocks in a 55 gallon drum of 10% livestock molasses to 90% water for 7 days. Cleans the inside water jackets really well. I then wash with a 4000 PSI washer and a 200 degree hot box. Final is to blow dry with a leaf blower to help prevent flash rust.
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#36 |
Senior Member
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I would put the heads back on with a old gasket say greased, then with it standing on end fill the block and heads with full strength Vinegar or molasses ,let that sit for min of 3 weeks even 8 .Then water blast ,you can degrease with Diesel or kero or some cheap solvent probe and water blast before the vinegar and after the machinist .dry it in the sun or a blow heater a little rust discolouration will not hurt ,or leave it covered in diesel while you wait for assembly . Ted
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#37 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 5,607
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__________________
Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#38 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Harare Zimbabwe
Posts: 160
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Hi,
A freind of mine recently cleaned up a dirty rusty chevy motor by putting it in a drum filled with a mixture of molasis and water. He left it in the drum overnight, took it out next day and pressure cleaned it. The motor was as clean as the day it was cast, no grease, oil, paint or rust. Incidentally, if you have a motor or anything else rusted up solid, put it in a drum of water and leave it to soak anything from a week to 3 months, the water will dissolve the rust better than any penetrating oil and you will eventually take it apart. I have tried this on a 29 Chev engine and it DOES work Regards Viv. |
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#39 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 5,607
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Did the cable in a drill trick. After about 3 days soaking in vinegar I heated the block over charcoal til it was good and warm. This was a ford reman block with what seemed very little use. Then a gunk bath and took it up near the house and hooked the garden hose to the washing machine's hot supply side. Pulled a rag wetted with marvel mystery oil over and through machined surfaces. Our one car wash on the island recycles their water through a filter and they have a sign 'No greasy engine parts'.... I will do my honing, drilling and valve grinding next and then a good thorough cleaning afterwards. I got a lot of really good input from you Barners that replied. Thanks!
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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