Original Cutout Cover Removal

[Tom Wesenberg]

I made this tool to hold cutouts while I use my sharped center punch to knock the two small spot welds apart. Notice the thin point on the center punch so I can get it between the base and cover better to split the spot weld. Once it's apart the small bends in the cover and base can easily be corrected by using a large diameter steel rod as an anvil, then hammer on the bends. No need to spot weld the cover or use any kind of glue because the cover fits tight, and the two screws and insulating washers also lock it in place.

Once the cover is off I can adjust the closing voltage by adjusting the spring pressure. I can also adjust the air gap and clean the contacts. Notice the fine wire that is soldered to the base. On a couple cutouts I found the wire broken, and it was easily resoldered by using a larger soldering gun such as a WEN 250.

BTW, due to the closed mounting feet you can tell this is a cutout made after the Model A years. That's fine because it's still a quality original ford part and works well for the Model A's. This one wouldn't close the contacts until 9 volts was reached, so that won't work if an electronic voltage regulator is installed and regulated the generator stud voltage to less than 8 volts.

BTW, the holder is just a 2 x 4 with a hole cut through, then a 3/4" thick oak board screwed to it.

[tbirdtbird]

way to go, Tom. I have taken them apart w/o the jig; the jig would make it waaay easier

[larrys40]

Tom, great idea... I have taken many apart and use to rebuild them in a decent qty.. but folks don't want to give enough for them to make doing more than an occasional worthwhile unfortunately. I use to buy the insualtors from Walt Bratton ( insulator inside and outside of covers) in bulk. Sure made it easier and used a either the original fiber washers or even the quality rubber o-rings as insulators and new rivits to go back together.
I would always rather have a quality rebuilt original than the repro junk.


Larry Shepard

[larrys40]

I should have added that there are still many original cutouts available out there. As Tom said the originals have open feet but the 32 and later had closed feet as well as service replacements. they are just fine and have the same characteristics internally.
( except for V8 oval radio cutouts)

They are spot welded on each side underneath and can be opened with care. Next swap meet look for one and give it a shot at restoration. The spring tension on all the repros is junk ( unless you have a diode) , so if you compared the original coils and mechanism you would see what a high quality it is inside. A testimony that they still work today as they do.
I've done seminars on these and will try and find one of my info sheets to post in the next day or two. In the meantime don't throw away those old cutouts!!!
Larry

[Shortdog]

Tom, I think I have seen that cut out before. Is it worth saving. Johnny

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Originally Posted by Shortdog

Tom, I think I have seen that cut out before. Is it worth saving. Johnny

Yes. Last night I adjusted the closing voltage to 6.0 volts, and today I'll work on cleaning it up.

[barnstuf]

To Tom and to all, yes the feet with a round hole for mounting is later than Model A. A script cover with a capital letter A was original July 1934 to April 1936. One with the capital letter B was original April 1936 through the end of 1938 production. This may be important to post 1932 folks, and these would be out of place on a Model A but would fit and would work OK. Personally I do not like to see a correct but relatively rare part for a later year used on a Model A when it would be appreciated and more valuable for its correct use.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

When I got Minerva, I used a borrowed, like new, re-pro?? cut out, with the cover held on by rivets.
It stuck, at times. Opened it & the moveable arm support was BENT over to one side & the points BARELY opened. Straightened it, & it worked PERFECT!
"Maybe" the assembler dropped it on the floor, just before he put on the cover???
My "stories" may seem BIZARRE, but they are true. What else could you expect from a Guy that drinks 8:00 Blend Coffee @ 12:17???
If anyone has some "unbelievable" stories, just P.M. me.
Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

My Olds has been down for a few weeks, so everything has been on hold while I try to get it back on the road. Anyway, yesterday I got back on this cutout and sandblasted the cover, then used my Caswell plating set to give it a zinc plating. Caswell and other outfits that sell the kit call it "copy-cad" but it's really zinc. Looks close to cad and if you wipe it down once or twice a year with an oily rag it will last many years.

After plating, the surface is a dull grey color, so I lightly stroke the finish with a worn brass brush to give it a brighter silvery look. One of the insulators is missing between the terminal and case, so I'll have to make that, then reinstall the cover. No need to spot weld or glue the cover because it's a tight fit, and the terminal screws also hold it in place.

For the base I have to hold the cutout at a slant so only the feet and a small part of the base get into the solution. Look carefully, and you can see the break line on the base of the cutout.

[figment]

Will the plating process simulate the tern finish?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by figment

Will the plating process simulate the tern finish?

I'd like to see an NOS cutout to see how the tern looked, though it likely had dulled through the years. I would think if I rubbed the cover with a canvas cloth it might be closer to the original tern look, but I'm just not sure how shiny tern was when it was new.

[Fullraceflathead]

Tern is basically a solder finish right?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

Tern is basically a solder finish right?

Yes, that's always been my understanding. I've read it was used inside the gas tank as well.

[figment]

Thanks guys , I saw some cutouts a a swap meet that had the tern finish and it was a dull solder finish. I would like to know how he got a nice smooth finish melting solder on the cutout cover. It was a few years ago and I felt the price was high but I would like to find one now. Norm

[Hunter]

Tom,

I always enjoy reading your posts and learning new ways to do things. You give so much to this hobby.


Thank you - Hunter

[old31]

I will double what Hunter said about Tom. Yep, X2.

[1930marie]

Originally Posted by Hunter

Tom,

I always enjoy reading your posts and learning new ways to do things. You give so much to this hobby.


Thank you - Hunter

Goes for me too! Thank you for all that you do. *** I will take a photo of a cut out I picked up at a recent swapmeet, I think it is all NOS.