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#1 |
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I'm sure this has been covered hundreds of times on here but I can't get the search to work on my cell phone and I have time to kill while I'm waiting at the dentist office. What is good way to remove rust from inside the tank without removing it and damaging the paint? I thought about electrolysis but I read somewhere that the baffles won't allow it to work. I've also read about dumping in white vinegar or a molasses solution. My goal is to get as much out as I can for now just so I can drive it and see how everything is working. Eventually when I start to restore the car I'll have it boiled out.
Thanks, Jeff |
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#2 |
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I read, on here, I think, to use acetone.
You fill your tank. Let it set for a while. Drain it, through a hose, connected to your shut-off. Strain it through a cloth and repeat. Keep doing this until it comes out clear. Be sure to put a filter on your gas line and watch it. Vinegar might work, too. It is a weak acid and it would have to sit longer. MIKE ![]() |
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#3 |
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I've used the vinegar trick several times on vintage motorcycle and antique stationary engine gas tanks with great success. I'm never really in a hurry, so I can let them sit for days (or weeks?) at a time.
Works like a charm, but it'll rust again if you let it sit empty for a while. So, I try to put it back in service and fill it with gas ASAP.
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#4 |
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How big are the gas tanks on an A?
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#5 |
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evaporust
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wasnt that one of the things you knew to check for a rusty tank
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#9 |
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Have you used evaporust? If so how were the results?
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#11 |
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There is generic evaporust out there by mail for 1/3 or less the price and are more concentrated as well. Works the same IMHO. I currently have some from rustdepot.com and it works out to $8.60 per gallon including shipping vs $25 per gallon for evaporust including tax and it is my second gallon from them. Since then I've found rust911.com and it is $3.72 per gallon. I'll buy that next. I bought several gallons of evaporust before I discovered the generic. The stuff will fix what others won't either. It fixed the stuck glove box hinge on my 36 Ford woodie for example.
Another advantage is you can mix it up more concentrated and it works faster. For $60 you can fill up your model A gas tank and have 6 gallons of concentrate left from rust911. Stuff works great and leaves no residue like phosphoric acid does. You clean the tank out to remove the dissolved rust and black residue which I assume is from the carbon in the rust that was dissolved. Last edited by mrtexas; 09-29-2015 at 03:43 PM. |
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#12 |
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The attempts to clean the tank in vivo will be a good first project.
Look up dirty leg and install one. Until you remove and have the tank boiled out you will need the dirty leg. Bob |
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#14 |
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More or less 10 Gallons. The later '31s had 11 gallons.
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#15 |
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You could half fill the tank and carefully let it sit on each side for a few days then drain it.
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#16 |
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I think I'll give the evaporust a try. What all has to come apart to pull the gas tank off?
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#17 |
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Does anyoneare an aftermarket gas tank?
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I've got a tank in here right now that came in last Friday which was filled with some sort of "rust eater" (customer's word, -not mine) that he said didn't work. I suspect it worked just fine ...but the issue is, -even if it works really well and removes all of the rust from the inside metal, what do you suppose happens in a few days once the rust has been removed from the bare tank metal? I suspect it will be obvious to us as soon as we get the tank cut open!
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#21 | |
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I stalled the "dirty leg", basically a drip leg coming off the bottom of the tank. It it works well for me no more fuel problems. |
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#22 |
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I've always been told the key to not getting rust or moisture in a tank is to keep it full. Especially if it's going to sit a long time.
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#23 |
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adding MMO to the fuel wil help coat the tank
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#24 |
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With today's ethanol contaminated gas I would completely empty the fuel tank for a car going into long term storage. Ethanol attracts water big time.
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#25 | |
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Forgot about that one. I've used Evaporust and it's quite handy. I'm cheap so I drain it, strain it, and re-use it. Still works.
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#27 |
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I can't imagine overly difficult if you have a dogleg installed. Just run a gallon of gas into the tank and shake the car around then drain. Do this few times, then fill the tank to the top with gas and with some MMO added to it to help prevent reoccuring rust.
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#28 |
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When you say "MMO", are you talking about Marvel Mystery Oil?
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#29 |
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Yes
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#30 |
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I'm not as concerned about the large chunks as I am about the residue left by evaporust. Since the baffles prevent rinsing the surfaces directly, does rocking the car with water in the tank do a good enough job of cleaning off the residue? I can't imagine any residue mixed with gas would be a good thing!
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The residue is easily washed away. I'm not sure but I think the residue is the carbon from the rusted steel.
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#33 |
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I've been doing that whenever I can find time for the past three days. I'm worried about all of the rust that is stuck to the tank yet. I know it will come loose eventually so I want to try to take care of it now. My tank is pretty bad. I've purchased some evaporust from amazon. They were the cheapest I could find but it's still going to be a costly experiment. I'll try to take some before and after pictures.
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#34 |
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I found it on amazon for $84.50 + free shipping for a five gallon bucket. I bought two of them because on the directions it says to completely fill the tank. The reason I decided to try it is because it's reusable. I can find all kinds of rusty things to soak. It would probably be better and cheaper to take the tank off and have it boiled out but I don't want to have to paint the tank yet.
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#35 |
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Also you need to be careful about having the tank chemically cleaned by some shops. A guy in our club had his 29 tank dipped and it came out of the solution without the threaded fill neck. He sold it to a hot rodder and had to buy another tank.
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#36 | |
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#37 | |
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Also, another point that should be made. "Boiling out" a tank at the radiator shop is a comment that is often used, ....and I feel often misunderstood. While these days it is rare to still find a radiator shop that still uses a caustic tank, it is possible. Now here is where all of this is wrong. First off, Sodium Hydroxide in their tank will generally be in a 10-15% solution. Sodium Hydroxide is great at removing anything that is organic ( i.e.: old gas, varnish, paint, old tank sealers, rubber, wood, leaves, etc. ) however it does nothing to steel. This is why you see it contained in a metal vat. If it truly dissolved rust, given some time (a few months) it would eat a hole thru the side of the vat too. As Tom mentioned above, it does however disolve soft metals given time. I have put engine blocks into my hot caustic tank without removing the rear seal and it would be partially dissolved when removed from the tank. With that said about the soft metals, the tanks originally were a Terne-coated metal before they were stamped. This Terne coating was the rust preventer inside the tank. Hot caustic does dissolve the Terne coating. So when a tank comes back from a radiator shop after being hot tanked, folks look inside the tank and see shiny bare metal at the bottom of the tank and tell the rad. shop owner "Good job!". The issue is that most of the rust we find on tanks is on the top of the tank. This is an area you cannot see, and the hot caustic bath did nothing for that. If the rad. shop owner used a steam cleaner to flush the tank with, the pressure knocked off the loose particles & sediment however the metal is still bare inside. Guess what bare metal is going to do now?? So this brings me back to my question above, - How are you going to stop the bare metal from re-rusting again? . |
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#38 |
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Not sure I guess. What can I do without removing the tank?
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#39 |
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I think good advice has been given regarding the stand-pipe, -and my only other suggestion would be to salvage several strong magnets out of some junk audio speakers. Place these magnets on the backside and underside of the fuel tank to attract & collect floating rust and sediment. Then periodically, drain the fuel from the tank, remove the magnets and pressure wash the inside of the tank the best you can to flush out the rust. Then reinstall the stand-pipe and magnets, ...and go again until you can properly restore the tank.
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I have just began to repair a tank using Brents method. While it is not the best tank I have it is the only one with the correct firewall date that closely matches my engine/frame numbers. I gave up finding a nice tank with the right date range and swapping firewall sections on a better tank is almost as much work. Will post results some time this winter as I likely wont get back to it until after the ground is covered with snow. Rod
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#41 |
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Here's a picture of what I'm dealing with.
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#42 |
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Yep, all too familiar. Why are you not repairing it correctly??
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#43 |
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What do you mean by correctly?
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#45 |
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I don't know of any shop that does that kind of work. All that I have in my area is a radiator shop that could boil it out. I'm avoiding that as of now because I'm not wanting to do any body work yet. What good is a pretty car if it doesn't run. I have read a lot of positive reviews about evaporust so I'm going to give it a try.
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#46 |
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Not trying to sound like a devout Christian Missionary in Iran trying to change religious beliefs .............. or trying to change Model A Forum Rust-Religions during the past 20 or so years; however: 1. Ever look at a 1700's musket barrel that is rusted as opposed to blued, and very well preserved. 2. The rust finish is still there after 300 years ...... the finish is "rust", a forgotten gunsmith created gun finish known as Browning, made with intentional layers of "rust", where "rust" is the "protective" coating. 3. Your tank is rusty ....... remove the rust with vinegar, molasses, Evapo-rust, acid, or whatever and one will have exposed bare steel in gas tanks or exposed bare cast iron in engine blocks, which invites "new" rust to start eating away at the rust pits and deterioration already caused by the former 80 year old rust. 3. The Cor-Ten rust coating article below, (with FAQ), can be incorporated into the Model A Rust Fighting Religion on Model A Forums; it has been practiced by vintage gunsmiths for over 300 years, and is presently working on thousands of building construction projects. 4. In my opinion, one option to removing all "rust" protection on 80 year old metal created by former "rust" in a Model A gas tank, is to install an in-tank cylindrical filter above the shut-off valve, add Marvel Mystery oil to your gas, try to maintain a full tank at all times, and start driving. http://www.corten.com/frequently-asked-questions.html |
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#47 | |
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Install the stainless "pencil" filter in the top of your fuel shut off valve, THEY'RE A GODSEND against flakes in your gas tank. I've never heard of one plugging up. Bill W.
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#48 |
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I agree with Bill. I install the filters in all the valves, even though my tanks look spotless inside.
It also helps prevent scoring on the tank valve tapered part. |
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#49 |
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After 80+ years we see rust protecting old metal on railroad rails, railroad spikes, Model A and vintage vehicle gas tanks, old muzzle loader weapons, etc.
Remove the protective rust crust and bumps and we then can see shiny rust pits in the metal. As hinted in reply no. 20 & 37, after removing rust, with no follow up with a protective coating, when the shiny metal begins to rust the 2nd time, the initial rust pits will get deeper. At this rate of continually removing rust, and allowing shiny metal to rust again, after time, one can create a gas tank that can hold gas as well as a screen door. |
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#50 |
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After cleaning it as best you can and adding the screen in the tank to hold off the big pieces and adding the drip leg under the tank, you can place a small magnet in the glass sediment bowl in the engine compartment.
Just a thought. Al |
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#51 |
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I have a little rust problem in the gas tank evidenced by some flakes collecting in the sediment bowl earlier this year. Looking in the tank did not reveal a significant rust issue. As a remedy I fitted a Wix (NAPA) filter in the sediment bowl and dropping a small powerful magnet in the bottom of the bowl, I also add a couple of ounces of two-cycle oil to each tank fill-up and plan on fitting a dirty leg.
To date I have not had any problem caused by the rust flakes. |
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#52 |
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So I'm pretty much gathering that I shouldn't use the evaporust.
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#53 |
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With a "pencil" filter, you won't get flakes in the "dirty leg" & it prevents flakes from plugging up or scoring the fuel valve, like Tom W. said.
When you order the "pencil" filter, buy a dozen & give them to your friends. I know friends that have really FLAKEY tanks & with that filter, NEVER have a problem! With it, & a standard sediment bowl & the filter in the top of the Zenith, you'll be set for TROUBLE FREE miles. OH, I found out that the "pencil" filter DOESN'T restrict the flow, on Minerva, with 1/2 tank of gas, it would flow a 6" stream of gas from the disconnected gas line at the carb! Bill W. & The Rat Dog
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#54 |
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Hi Jeff,
Just one opinion, and one bunch of past experiences: 1. First, it is difficult for anyone to "see" the condition of your tank from miles away; so expect guesses. 2. Difficult for anyone to guess how many times your tank may have been "de-rusted" and "re-rusted"; and/or if you are on the verge of having rusted out gas tank pin holes; more guesses. 3. If you do not have old "dissolving" and "peeling" former gas tank liquid sealer, consider yourself very lucky ..... difficult situation. 4. Vintage vehicles operating with rusty fuel tanks in old vintage 80+ year old vehicles of all sorts are as common as old men over 80 running around with grey hair and aching joints ............... nothing at all new ........... the rust is not always attractive, and neither is the gray hair attractive ........ especially in a disco joint night club full of young people. 5. Draining fuel, filtering it, and adding back to a tank at "any" time can never hurt to remove rust & dirt particles. 6. The in tank cylindrical screen, NAPA fuel filter in glass bowl, and MMO to penetrate the tank's porous metal works great. 7. We oil old rusty guns, we oil old rusty tools ...... nothing wrong with oiling a rusty gas tank with MMO either ....... 4 ounces per 10 gallons ....... most vintage mechanics I knew always recommended this in our humid climate ....... it always worked. But just one opinion ......... from far away ...... just trying to help. |
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#55 |
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evaporust the tank
flush tank with fuel combined with heavy MMO mixture install pencil filter install wix filter in glass bowl refill with fresh gas and fresh MMO dont be scared into trying this route it works vs removing the tank. a rusty tank is a deal breaker for me when purchasing a car, its not worth the agg IMO, but you knew to check for this going in. |
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#56 |
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Hi Jeff,
Just one opinion from many experiences by applying Browning rust protection. Evaporust advertises it will not just remove rust, but will remove bluing and Browning rust protection provided on guns by vintage gunsmiths. If you are "not" going to provide a "protective coating" after rust removal, I would not use Evaporust. The first time one forgets adding MMO ........ (and guess how many Model A owners have CRS) ........ gas will wash out the MMO in the shiny metal ...... the shiny tank gets low on fuel ......... and the rust starts all over a second time eating away on the already thinner shiny metal rust pits. The Cor-Ten FAQ in reply 46 explains protecting metal with rust. I have a "rusty" corrugated galvanized roof today on a building that is 97 years old, and the roof does "not" leak. The rust was never removed with Evaporust, vinegar, molasses or any other chemical ...... however ......... had I removed this rust protective coating with chemicals several times .......... the "re-rusting" on the thinner shiny metal pits in the metal would have eaten holes therein. But again, one opinion. Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 10-03-2015 at 09:49 AM. Reason: typo |
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#57 |
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vinegar is the "poor" mans method for evaporust. Takes a bit longer, but am in no hurry.
10 gallons of vinegar is between 10. and 20. bucks.............. works great on radiators where you dont want something overly caustic. |
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#58 |
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I am all for using the vinegar. You have to let it set longer to dissolve the rust. If you get in too much of a hurry, it just might only loosen the rust.
It is a very mild acid and not harmful to the environment. MIKE ![]() |
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#59 |
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A weak point in the gas tank construction/design is the riveted/soldered support for the steering column. look there for weeping after the derusto treatment.
Bob |
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#60 |
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My plan is to use the evaporust and get the tank cleaned out. I'll use MMO with the fuel until I can get the tank off and use something like POR 15. Evaporust claims that their product does not eat away at any metals. I understand that any new rust that forms will eat away at the tank but I'm hoping that I can control the rusting until I have a chance to use some kind of tank liner. What do you guys suggest for a tank lining? Is POR 15 the best out there?
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#61 |
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Also I appreciate everyone's advice and input. It is all being taken into consideration. Thank you.
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Before you put too much faith in magnets, particularly "cow Magnets" which are very powerful and have been used by Model A owners, check to see if YOUR tank's rust is MAGNETIC. Many have tanks rust not affected by magnets.
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#63 | |
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To me, tank sealing crap is SCARY, I always remember when Gene was pulling LOOOONG STRINGY Grey bits of it out of his gas tank, with a wire coat hanger!! AGAIN, just get out what you can & use the "pencil" filter. Bill W.
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#64 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,316
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I would avoid using a sealer-however I have used them and Bill Hirsch gas tank sealer is one of the best. It is white in color- put it in my 51 chevy tin wood 10 years ago and tank is still in excellent shape. The main advantage of the sealer is that it seals pin holes.
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#65 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 20
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Wow, great discussion and very educational. Thanks to all!
JimC |
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#66 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,179
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Per your reply no. 63, if a Model A owner bought some cows ........ and if a Model A owner bought some Cow Magnates ......... in your opinion ....... would the Cow Magnates be strong enough that this Model A owner would never have to worry about "When the cows come Home". Just wondering. Last edited by H. L. Chauvin; 10-03-2015 at 03:35 PM. Reason: typo |
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#67 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2
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I am a little dumb but what does a pencil filter look like and where can I get one.
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#68 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 79
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This is what I used. It presses into the fuel shutoff.
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#69 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 79
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I ordered mine from Bert's Model A Center. They cost about $4. Here's the link to the site http://parts.modelastore.com/ .
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#70 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2
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#71 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Easley, SC
Posts: 109
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I currently have my tank pulled out to fight this rust issue too. Keep watching to see what others use. Once I remove this light powder rust deal, I plan on using a sealing kit to never have to do this again.
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#72 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,820
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![]() One point that I will make on this for the ones who are choosing the "no sealer option" is, when you have cleaned all of the rust out of the tank, what keeps it from re-rusting inside? Most fuels today have oxygenizers and all kinds of additives which like to encourage rust to form on bare metal. Do you think a constant-full tank is the answer?? And finally, a thought for some to ponder on. When you have your engine restored (i.e.: rebuilt) you naturally want it to last for awhile but most realists would agree that at some point it will likely need rebuilding again. The same for new tires & tubes. We spend nearly $1k on quality tires & tubes however most folks realize they are only for a time until they will need to be replaced. The same applies to paint, upholstery, chrome, etc. So why do people skirt the idea of restoring a tank, ...and when they do attempt some type of repair/restoration, it upsets them if there is a possibility for it needing to be redone somewhere in the future. ![]() ![]() Granted, not every car needs the door latches, window regulators, and speedometer restored, ...and likewise not every Model-A gas tank needs to be restored either however, just like the latches and speedometers, many do! ![]() . . |
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#73 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,315
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Brent, after you open up a tank, how do you remove the rust, and how do you prevent it from rusting. Do you have any after pictures?
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#74 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,334
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In extreme cases a tank can be cleaned out by cutting part of the top panel out . The baffles are spot welded to the bottom of the tank so the top will lift out clear . I did this on a tank where the tank had been out in the weather for a long time with no gas cap on . It was full of debris and a bees nest/comb. I cleaned it out and seam MIG welded the top back in . A skim of bondo and just looks fine in my AZ red 30 pickup and no junk in the filter after 5 years . BE SAFE !!! you cannot do this if any gas vapour is still in the tank or your hobby will come to an abrupt halt . Mine was for sure gas free as the bees had checked it out for me .
John in warm humid sunny Suffolk County England . Last edited by john charlton; 09-15-2016 at 04:24 AM. |
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#75 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,820
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#76 |
BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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Brent what are you using for the final sealer??
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#77 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,315
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WOW!!! Beautiful work!!! That's the way to do it right. Thanks for you time and posting the pictures.
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#78 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: canton,michigan
Posts: 312
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I'll be sending my tank to Brent for that treatment sooner or later, when I get around to pulling it out of my truck. It's a late '31 tank, and that horizontal outlet fills up right away with sediment and rust. I'm going to spend the money and have it done right, once and for all.
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#79 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 14
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Got the Rust 911 concentrate worked as advertised, filled tank to the top let it set for two days drained and I now have a clean tank. I'm sure many have mentioned but make sure you have installed the filter that goes into the tank, kept me going even though I had a lot of junk in the tank prior to the Rust 911".
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