Ford engine green paint color

[FrankWest]

Sorry, I could not find my original posting.
What is going on with this engine green paint.
Just recieved ford engine green from Brattons...
It is almost BLACK.
Last time I ordered from Mac's and got Grey!
Does'nt anyone sell Ford engine green that is green like that shown in the 1933/1934 ford restoration guide?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I bought two spray cans from Little Dearborn three years ago and have the same problem. It's so close to black you need a bright light to tell the difference.

[glenn in camino]

Mix some out of rustoleum. 2green, 1black, 1 blue. The right color, and very durable.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by glenn in camino

Mix some out of rustoleum. 2green, 1black, 1 blue. The right color, and very durable.

Good idea but does rustoleum sell a high temp paint?

[gwhite]

Roy Nacewicz has the correct formula - copied it while he worked for Ford. Highly recommended. www.fordbolts.com

[Charles Coe]

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I've been pleased with the engine paint from Bill Hirsch Automotive.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Charles Coe

I've been pleased with the engine paint from Bill Hirsch Automotive.

Hirsch is the one that makes the paint the guys are complaining about.

[mlp623]

I used engine green from Brattons and it was fine - must be a lot of variability in the production. What was underneath it? That could influence as well.

Pics of manifold painted with ford Green engine paint from brattons

[springerpete]

Got mine from TAMS. Both the spray and brushing type were the same color. At a fall show my engine compared well to others I saw.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by springerpete

Got mine from TAMS. Both the spray and brushing type were the same color. At a fall show my engine compared well to others I saw.

you got lucky because i tried his also and got poor results in match between the brush and spray.. plus both were completely different from snyders.
stick with one lot and keep it from going bad or touch ups will never match

[FrankWest]

Roy Nacewicz has quality stuff. The bolts and other items I bought from him were beautifully made. I will give him a call thanks.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Just a thought of curiosity, ....do you suppose any of this has to do with mixing inside the can? Maybe the can was not shaken enough, --or maybe something has happened (frozen, excessive heat, etc.) after it left the manufacturer?

I will tell you that in Fine-Point judging, the rattle can available from most suppliers does come close in sheen or color of matching the original engine color or the chip inside the Paint & Refinish Guide. Never has.

[Tom Wesenberg]

mlp623 your manifold looks good and just like the brush on paint I bought from Little Dearborn 10 years ago. They no longer sell the cans of brush on engine paint.

Your carb looks too shiney and charcoal grey. I have a carb with good original paint, and the best match I have found is by using Pactra 63 jet black. I've heard Pactra is gone now, but the hobby store should have an equivalent paint. It's a good paint that stands up to gas.

[AL in NY]

I've never had any trouble with the paints I've received from Snyder's, either brush-on or rattle can.

[mlp623]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

mlp623 your manifold looks good and just like the brush on paint I bought from Little Dearborn 10 years ago. They no longer sell the cans of brush on engine paint.

Your carb looks too shiney and charcoal grey. I have a carb with good original paint, and the best match I have found is by using Pactra 63 jet black. I've heard Pactra is gone now, but the hobby store should have an equivalent paint. It's a good paint that stands up to gas.

Tom
Thanks! I didn't touch the carb - it was that way when I bought it. Thanks for the tip on the pactra 63 - Good to know the source if I do re-paint it. Right now - bigger fish to fry!

I would like to do the Generator and Starter - Any recommendations on the black to use there?

Matt

[kenparker]

I do as Glen suggest. Mix my own from Rustoleum available ar hardware store. Two parts Emerald Green, One part Black, One part Blue. Very good match and durable even on the head - which gets hotter than the block. Applied with a stubby artist oil paint brush. Brushes come in a variety of widths - your choice.
But keep in mind. If you need more horsepower and more speed - paint it red. ken

[Terry, NJ]

As Brent says, How well was it mixed? I just went through a similar situation with Rustoleum brush on bed liner. I shook the can prior to opening, even left it upside down for a while. It wasn't mixed! The Rattle cans are worse. The directions say to shake for two minutes. Who does that? A couple of reciprocal movements and it's "Ahh it's ok"! The real test is if the nozzle clogs up. Having clogged up a few nozzles with almost full cans, I learned that the nozzles are designed to work with fully dissolved paint, Not pure pigments!
Terry

[C26Pinelake]

I got 2 cans from Snyders and I think they are perfect. My neighbor was so impressed that he ordered one and guess what ? A different shade of green. Go figure, eh !
Wayne

[CarlG]

You mean, you have to shake it more than just to dislodge the marble in the can?

Learn something every day here on the Ford Barn

[Tom Wesenberg]

mpl623, I recently gave Rustoleum another try after 40 years of not using them. I like the Rustoleum semi gloss black for starters and generators. Be sure to shake the can well, and don't put it on too thick. Two thin coats with about 30 minutes between coats seems to work well. Be sure to have the part and paint at room temperature. I like to put the parts aside and let them dry for two or three days.

40 years ago I had to let my motorcycle frame dry for a week in the hot Texas sun before I could handle it, and wasn't happy with the charcoal grey look. That's why I quit using it.