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Old 11-24-2021, 09:38 AM   #21
Harold Degand
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

Thanks Deuce Lover
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Old 11-24-2021, 10:02 AM   #22
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

You're welcome.I looked to see if I had one in my leftover parts-no luck.
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Old 11-24-2021, 10:54 AM   #23
Harold Degand
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

Just wondering, is the bearing guide long enough ?
No risk of damaging anything ?
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Old 11-24-2021, 11:22 AM   #24
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

Have someone help you and push on the lever while you look inside and see how much it moves. I am trying to understand why you have this issue and maybe its the flywheel - not thick enough? Just a guess. Hopefully another member will chime in. Is your French Flathead the 4.2L and is the flywheel original to the engine? I am not familiar with those,only the 3.9L which is like the 59AB.

Last edited by deuce lover; 11-24-2021 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 11-24-2021, 02:33 PM   #25
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

My engine is a 3.9 L. The flywheel is the same as Ford except they are drilled for 11’’ clutch.
I think the issue is the missing adjusters. So the plate isn’t thick enough.
With the rod in a normal size, I mean not full unscrewed or screwed, my pedal is close to the floor when the bearing contact the plate.
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Old 11-24-2021, 07:41 PM   #26
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

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If the clutch disk is to thick it will move the fingers in more. Some over the counter clutch assy would come that way back in the day. just a thought.
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Old 11-27-2021, 03:15 PM   #27
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

I've never used the clutch arm adjusters to adjust pedal play (on any car) - they come setup from the manufacturer to ensure even engagement with the throw-out bearing. They are not meant to be used to adjust pedal play (to the best of my knowledge).

When you put a new clutch disc in, it is probably thicker than your original one - which causes the fingers to be further down. I'd expect this . . . so the question is whether or not your throw-out bearing is TOO far out on the sleeve.

I agree with Deuce Lover - have somebody depress the pedal until you feel the clutch fingers and see where the throw-out bearing sleeve is located. You should be able to determine whether or not it is still correctly engaged with the sleeve - if so, then maybe change the rod as noted above.

Is the 39 trans using a 32 arm on the cross-shaft or a 39 arm on the cross shaft (they're completely different in length). As long as the throw-out bearing is correctly engaged with the sleeve, I'd have no problem "customizing" the length of the rod to accomplish the desired free-play.
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Old 11-27-2021, 03:20 PM   #28
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

By "customizing", I've cut them before (close to the eyelet), added some additional rod material in the middle and TIG welded them back together to achieve whatever length I needed for whatever car I was working on.
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Old 11-27-2021, 07:03 PM   #29
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

The new disk have the same thickness than the 11’’ from the truck.
I have a late 32 arm release.
I’ll check ASAP when somebody depress clutch.
I can’t be the only one with this problem.
Thank you all for your replies anyway.

Last edited by Harold Degand; 11-28-2021 at 02:38 AM.
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Old 11-28-2021, 10:15 AM   #30
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

Given your setup, I wonder if the clutch arms are in the right location when you bolt it down to the flywheel? I'd probably take the original pressure plate and disc, install them and use some sort of flat disc on top of the fingers and measure the depth to the flywheel. I'd do the same with the new setup - just so you have a frame of reference as to how far down the levers are as compared to your 11" setup.

For your pedal to be that different with the new clutch sure sounds like a clutch plate issue at this point in the discussion. Also, I'd want to talk to a clutch manufacturer - where you can get somebody who understands exactly what you're talking about. I tend to deal with flywheel/clutch manufacturers and don't just buy these types of components from the "general" parts houses.

My recent flathead flywheel/clutch builds have been done by RAM (high performance and racing stuff), have not used a stock clutch in years on my own builds. I have used Ft. Wayne for multiple street performance and stock type builds with no problems.
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Old 11-28-2021, 04:53 PM   #31
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

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Originally Posted by Harold Degand View Post
I donít think so. Mine is about 3 1/2 long from one end to the other.
What's the matter with cutting it off with a hacksaw? Duh.
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Old 11-28-2021, 06:31 PM   #32
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What's the matter with cutting it off with a hacksaw? Duh.
It is too short . . . by at least an inch or so.
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Old 11-29-2021, 05:10 AM   #33
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

I have that setup on my roadster. You just need to make a longer pushrod. You could make the clevis longer by welding a nut onto the end. That may be simpler than extending the rod. Your choice.
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Old 11-29-2021, 06:30 AM   #34
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

Here are the pics !
#1 the rod and the clevis assembled.
#2 the clutch pedal on the normal position
#3 the pedal when the bearing contact the pressure plate
#4 the gap when bearing contact the plate
#5 gap when depressing the clutch. Canít go further, the pedal contact the steering box
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Old 11-29-2021, 12:25 PM   #35
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

Does your throw out bearing hub look like the photo in post #8 ?? It appears to be much different in the photos you have posted. In posting #8 the center photo shows the throw out hub and in the third photo you can see the assembly.
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Old 11-29-2021, 12:35 PM   #36
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

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Does your throw out bearing hub look like the photo in post #8 ?? It appears to be much different in the photos you have posted. In posting #8 the center photo shows the throw out hub and in the third photo you can see the assembly.
In post ę#8, deuce lover posted 3 pics. In the 2nd one, the bearing isnít fitted, but it is on 3rd pic. Is it what you ment ?
It is the same on mine.
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Old 11-29-2021, 01:57 PM   #37
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

The hub/bearing looks standard to me . . . it is just WAY forward before it engages with the clutch forks/fingers. I think there is something wrong with the clutch and/or disc combination - that results in the clutch fingers being way closer to the flywheel than the original clutch you had in it.

Just to ask an obvious question - is the clutch disc correctly installed and the springs are NOT hitting the flywheel bolts?
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Old 11-29-2021, 03:27 PM   #38
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

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Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked View Post
The hub/bearing looks standard to me . . . it is just WAY forward before it engages with the clutch forks/fingers. I think there is something wrong with the clutch and/or disc combination - that results in the clutch fingers being way closer to the flywheel than the original clutch you had in it.

Just to ask an obvious question - is the clutch disc correctly installed and the springs are NOT hitting the flywheel bolts?
Iím pretty sure the problem come by the missing fingers adjusters.

The disk is in the right position
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Old 11-29-2021, 03:38 PM   #39
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

The adjusters aren't "missing" the plate is designed to be used like that.
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Old 11-29-2021, 04:26 PM   #40
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Default Re: 1932 clutch issue

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The adjusters aren't "missing" the plate is designed to be used like that.
Youíre right. I ment, there's no adjuster on the new plate
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