29 Tudor how to reduce engine heat & fumes into interior

[fred93]

I purchased a set of firewall & rumble floor mat snap studs from Bratton's and I opened up a Pandora's box.

#1--I assume that I will need to get inventive when I try to install the two studs that are close to the left & right kick panels. It looks very tight where I need to attach the nuts to the studs. Any thoughts on that?

#2--Again, I assume that I will need to punch a hole to line up the mat to the studs, once they are in place?

#3--There seems to be areas on the inside by the lower cowl panels where air will be coming into the interior. That air will be hot and smelly. What is the best way to block that air from coming in? See photos

[denniskliesen]

Yes it was tight in those corners for the stud and nut. I think I glued the nut to the wrench and then aligned it to the hole and screwed the stud in. The mat should already have existing holes to fit the location if you bought a new mat from Snyder's. Mine fits perfect. I bought some 3/8' thick dense felt at the hardware store to go under the mat using the mat as a template for the holes and shape. Wasn't cheap but it helps a lot to keep the floor from overheating. It was called gasket material in bulk. I don't have a draft from my cowl where you do, maybe due to having the panels installed. I made my own panels from door card and covered with leather that went all the way to the floor and are held in place at the top front corner with the wire harness brackets. Those brackets have a loop in them for that reason. All of the areas where the supports along the side especially in the top corners where there is a gap I cut pieces to fit from the extra dense felt I had left over. I took a piece and wrapped it around the steering column and draped it out over the floor board around the column. It's held in place with a zip tie. The only place I have a very small gap is around the pedals and I haven't figured out yet how to completely seal those without wearing out the seal.

[History]

There are shifter boots that might work for the pedals. Some look like an accordion. They may also not work, but something along those lines I believe is what it will take as the pedal movement is pretty dynamic.

[rocket1]

You might want to try a Studebaker throttle boot from Studebaker International,part # 513536x1,$6.50 each,it has accordion pleats,might do the trick.

[Jordan]

Go to hobby lobby and buy a foam block. Cut it to fit in that triangle area where the air enters. That's what I did for my car and it has helped for 8 years.

[J Franklin]

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Originally Posted by Jordan

Go to hobby lobby and buy a foam block. Cut it to fit in that triangle area where the air enters. That's what I did for my car and it has helped for 8 years.

Maybe a can of spray-foam!

[fred93]

Originally Posted by denniskliesen

Yes it was tight in those corners for the stud and nut. I think I glued the nut to the wrench and then aligned it to the hole and screwed the stud in. The mat should already have existing holes to fit the location if you bought a new mat from Snyder's. Mine fits perfect. I bought some 3/8' thick dense felt at the hardware store to go under the mat using the mat as a template for the holes and shape. Wasn't cheap but it helps a lot to keep the floor from overheating. It was called gasket material in bulk. I don't have a draft from my cowl where you do, maybe due to having the panels installed. I made my own panels from door card and covered with leather that went all the way to the floor and are held in place at the top front corner with the wire harness brackets. Those brackets have a loop in them for that reason. All of the areas where the supports along the side especially in the top corners where there is a gap I cut pieces to fit from the extra dense felt I had left over. I took a piece and wrapped it around the steering column and draped it out over the floor board around the column. It's held in place with a zip tie. The only place I have a very small gap is around the pedals and I haven't figured out yet how to completely seal those without wearing out the seal.

I realize that when I install the cowl kick panels that I probably will not feel a draft, however the hot air will still get into the interior. The kick panels do not seal off that area completely. I guess I will just stuff something into that space between the floor brace and the cowl sheet metal. Doing that will really keep the interior much cooler I am sure.

[Bill G]

I need to think about these things too. Lots of hot air coming through the space where the kick panels will eventually go. I won't be doing the interior until next year or the next so I think I will stuff something down that space.

[J Franklin]

Spray foam will fill any voids and is usually closed cell so it shouldn't draw moisture.

[ryanheacox]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

Maybe a can of spray-foam!

Maybe form a plastic bag in the hole before spray foaming. Won't make as perfect a seal but would make it much easier to remove should the need arise.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by ryanheacox

Maybe form a plastic bag in the hole before spray foaming. Won't make as perfect a seal but would make it much easier to remove should the need arise.

I have done it that way. "Borrowed" some plastic that was used for spray foaming packages and making forms were I worked. I sectioned the cavity so teh foam could be removed easily and reused. The cavity can be inspected, and cleaned if necessary. Also helps keeping moisture from getting into the foam.

[fred93]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

I have done it that way. "Borrowed" some plastic that was used for spray foaming packages and making forms were I worked. I sectioned the cavity so teh foam could be removed easily and reused. The cavity can be inspected, and cleaned if necessary. Also helps keeping moisture from getting into the foam.

I am concerned about the moisture issue now that I am rethinking this problem. The seal between the gas tank and the cowl does not seem to be absolutely waterproof. If water does seep into the interior at that point it would normally flow down the inside of the cowl panel and leak out of the bottom of that area. If I totally seal up that area I could prevent any water from finding a way out. Decisions, decisions!

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Just throwing this out as discussion , do not know the answer. If moisture gets behind the kick panel in standard A's without sealing/foaming I would think there would be problems with mold and also beraking down due to moisture, and kick panels going bad.

[redmodelt]

Cutting down on the heat is one thing but fumes, that is just part of owning an old car like the Model A, part and parcel. You might also insulate the back side of the kick panel. Also, when installing floor boards, the edges were wrapped with welt, somewhat like under the aprons, only smaller and thinner.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword

[Railcarmover]

you can pack strip caulk in areas you can see..its wise to use it as an aide to the cowl welt when installing the cowl,its non hardening body sealer..its black and tar like,you can force into areas or use it where ford used 'anti squeak welt'its what the manufacturers used in the last 50 years or more.

Spray foam is bad stuff in high humidity areas,rust never sleeps,el crujiente oxido..


love the smells,its what makes it what it is..