Who Can Diagnose THIS Total Mystery? Win A Prize?

[Mike V. Florida]

Grounding to the engine. My guess is the the ground is through the fuel line. This caused the fuel line to heat up and the fuel to turn to vapor. Without seeing the engine compartment to be sure I would place a cable from the chassis to the engine and see what happens.

[ehb2talk]

I had a problem like this and it was the coil. When it got hot some of the copper wires inside seperated and it acted like it was dead. After it cooled down it would start up and run untill it got hot. I replaced it and solved the problem. I changed carb, dist., and any thig else I could think off. I was on a trip with the club and was glad to git it running again. eric

[JD 1931]

I just went thru a simular problem,replaced parts including condenser and it run worst,even blew out muffler.Searched more ,Fuel system, etc., replaced more parts. Was about to give up and I then bought a condenser from napa to replace new one and it ran great again.Bought 1st parts including condenser from a well known model a house.New parts can be faultly.

[Jim/GA]

Is this car still 6 volts, or has it been converted to 12 volts?

[Tom Wesenberg]

The next time it acts up don't touch anything. Just shift to neutral, and let it coast to the side of the road. Then lift the left side of the hood and hold the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut while you push the starter rod with your right hand. Good blue spark, then you must have a fuel problem. Poor yellow or no spark, then don't mess with the fuel system but check the switch and cable leading to the distributor, and the short wire between the upper and lower plates.

My car was backfiring bad a few years ago, and it was very intermittent. One day it was starting to act up and I noticed that as soon as I touched the key on the repro switch the engine shut off. The weight of a small key fob swaying back and forth was sometimes enough for the poor switch contacts to not make. I removed the back cover on the switch and improved the contacts, so they now have a much better positive click when turned on.

[pooch]

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Originally Posted by Tinbasher

Check the voltage coming out of the generator. You could be overcharging the system causing the condensor and coil to get hot and cut out.

My two Cents worth. Tinbasher

I will go with this.

I had exact same problem.

Powerhouse was charging 18 volts in a 12 volt system.

It turned the points blue and they misfired.

After checking fuel and carb because it sure sounded like that, I simply hooked a timing light up to the coil lead.

As soon as it started misfiring it was obvious.

You can even drive with the light permanently hooked up, if it may take 100 miles for it to happen and you have the diagnosis instantly.

[MikeK]

The easy way (IMHO) to check for an intermittent fuel delivery problem is to use one of these:

It's a carb fuel level sight tube, about $8 from Brattons. You replace the bottom carb plug with it and bend the clear tube which has a stiffener wire inside, up, around, and above the bowl top. You will 'see' the float level. Drive 'till it hiccups, then quick, go look and see if it is where it normally is, or is down.

Electrical: You may also experience that type of behavior if you are running on straight generator, with the connection to the battery lost. In addition to the electrical stuff already suggested by the great Fordbarners above: Remove/clean- frame to ground strap bolt, both battery terminals, heavy cable to starter, wiring from cutout to starter switch, wiring to terminal box. How old is your battery? On rare occasions, internal connections between cells on modern batteries go bad or become intermittent. That is VERY dangerous, it can ignite the hydrogen and make the battery explode!! Here's a pix:

If my suggestions solve it, for a prize I want you to put together a good Tech-Talk about finding it and present it at one of your club meetings. Also post your experience here. If your battery blows up, don't call me, I'll call you. Did I mention safety glasses, baking soda and a water bucket? Absolutely always when doing electrical stuff in eyesight of a car bomb, er, battery.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

WOW, Holy Cow again!! Look at all these "gotta-be" answers!! I sure hope I get selected to be on the ARC (Answer Review Committee) because I am definitely leaning towards the award winning diagnosis here of either the;

11111) Two loose lugnuts on the Left Rear wheel.

OR

22222) Improper mixture of the radiator coolant.


Both of these definitely seem like the sure-fire winners. Oh, and that one about the muffler and/or tire pressure sure seems worthy of an Honorable Mention too! It truly is amazing the responses we receive when those two little innocent words (Backfire & Prize) are used in the same posting!!


.

[SteveB31]

I think it is vapor locking.

Take it for a long ride and make it quit running. After it quits, raise the hood, and pour a bottle of water on the carb.

If it starts back up and runs, then it was vapor locking.

Now......to fix that , can be a chore, depending on the caus (several of whcih were described in this thread.)

Whats the prize?

Steve

[aandtman]

It could be sticking valves, especially if you have bronze guides and have run some old gas.
Do this, hand crank (switch off)your engine and get a good feel for how good the compression is. Drive car, and when problem arises again, stop immediately and hand crank again. A noticeable difference in compression could indicate valves sticking. Weak springs could also contribute.

When do I get my prizes ??????
Don V

[Fred K-OR]

Here it goes again, "I had a similar problem", but I did. Like mentioned a number of times, I replaced the coil. So far, but I am not sure, this has worked for me. I need to do further tests to prove it.

[Mitch//pa]

Do I have to pay shipping and handling for the free prize??

[ct1932ford]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Do I have to pay shipping and handling for the free prize??

Just what I always wanted a used/bad coil

[Stretch Cab]

It's an 84 year old truck, maybe it just needs to pull over and rest awhile.........

[MikeK]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

11111) Two loose lugnuts on the Left Rear wheel.
OR
22222) Improper mixture of the radiator coolant.
.

Never underestimate thinking outside the box! Brent, you may be correct.

[oldmanandakid]

Oh man, mine is running good but after reading all of this stuff I am afraid to drive it.

[sgwilson904]

Still 6 volts but replaced original generator with alternator.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

WOW, Holy Cow again!! Look at all these "gotta-be" answers!! I sure hope I get selected to be on the ARC (Answer Review Committee) because I am definitely leaning towards the award winning diagnosis here of either the;

11111) Two loose lugnuts on the Left Rear wheel.

OR

22222) Improper mixture of the radiator coolant.


Both of these definitely seem like the sure-fire winners. Oh, and that one about the muffler and/or tire pressure sure seems worthy of an Honorable Mention too! It truly is amazing the responses we receive when those two little innocent words (Backfire & Prize) are used in the same posting!!


.

Checked the air in the tires-new- Rotated the tires also no help! Also turned the fan belt around no help! Our next step is to drive the route backwards Just maybe it'll work- driving Model a's since 12 yrs old now 63. I'm baffled!

[RHD]

I would look seriously at your coil. They are heat sensitive. My fathers old Chrysler did the same as your car, and played up on the same stretch of road every time. Once the coil had reached a certain temperature it made the engine miss until it stopped altogether.

[Gary WA]

Originally Posted by MikeK

The easy way (IMHO) to check for an intermittent fuel delivery problem is to use one of these:

It's a carb fuel level sight tube, about $8 from Brattons. You replace the bottom carb plug with it and bend the clear tube which has a stiffener wire inside, up, around, and above the bowl top. You will 'see' the float level. Drive 'till it hiccups, then quick, go look and see if it is where it normally is, or is down.

Electrical: You may also experience that type of behavior if you are running on straight generator, with the connection to the battery lost. In addition to the electrical stuff already suggested by the great Fordbarners above: Remove/clean- frame to ground strap bolt, both battery terminals, heavy cable to starter, wiring from cutout to starter switch, wiring to terminal box. How old is your battery? On rare occasions, internal connections between cells on modern batteries go bad or become intermittent. That is VERY dangerous, it can ignite the hydrogen and make the battery explode!! Here's a pix:

If my suggestions solve it, for a prize I want you to put together a good Tech-Talk about finding it and present it at one of your club meetings. Also post your experience here. If your battery blows up, don't call me, I'll call you. Did I mention safety glasses, baking soda and a water bucket? Absolutely always when doing electrical stuff in eyesight of a car bomb, er, battery.

I have one of those carb tubes no good! New Battery, New Gen built by the Tom Wesenberg! May I'll get in touch with Boeing!!! Just a ferry ride away!! Heavy cable good!!! ALL the Above has been done except checking the valves which will be this week!!!