Looking for a '48 Flathead daily driver build recipe

[John Kennedy]

Hey all. I'm new to the flathead world, and picked up a 1948 59AB for my '29 Sedan.
I've done the search feature, studied, etc... here's what I know so far...
My engine disassembled VERY easy, appears to be original. One bent con rod, cracked piston. 3 rings on each piston with a fourth below the wrist pin.
"Ford" stamped in the valves, so I suspect they've never been out.
Has that strange siamesed rod bearing setup, I don't know if that's good or not.

So, I'm going to need pistons, rods and bearings. I want sensible and durable stuff. Are later rod designs better? Also, I read that '49 and later had keyed rod bearings. I suspect that's a better design?

I like what I read about drilling out the crank and installing 3/8 pipe for cleaning it out.

I'd like to retain as much exterior originality as possible as I have every little pipe, bracket, etc... and it looks nice.

Cleaned the oil pan today, not a dent in it! I wonder if that little triangular area in one corner is a road vent?

Also, regarding stock camshafts, is it that bad flow-wise? Mine's in real good shape (viewed still in block).

Thanks for any advice. John

[46ford]

Hmmm... any idea how that connecting rod got bent?

[jdl]

look for cracks in block before spending money on parts. have block pressure tested or magnafluxed ,most cracks can be fixed. look closely at the bore & valve area where the bent rod was, maybe caused by water leak. you will get lots of help here on the fordbarn.

[John Kennedy]

I'm definetly planning to have the block checked. Some small circular marks on top of the piston, like 1/4" diameter. Tells me something mechanical got swallowed in there (cyl 8).

[Ol' Ron]

Getting a book like JWL's "Flathead facts" will probably give you all the information you need to make good decisions.
Remember displacement and comression make torque. This improves drivabiliyy and economy.. Boreing youur engine to 3 5/16 = 258 ci and using a set of 39-41 "A" neads will give this at a reasonable cost for a street engine. Using a 49-53 Ford Crank and rod assy might save some cash as well. the floating bearings are expensive and hard to set up'

[jdl]

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John, I sent you a PM,

[southfork]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Using a 49-53 Ford Crank and rod assy might save some cash as well. the floating bearings are expensive and hard to set up'

I guess I'd forgotten that you can use the '49-53 crank and rod assembly in a '46-48 flathead. Could you also do that on any 85 HP Ford flathead engine going back to 1939 manufacture? If not, why not?

[Ol' Ron]

The rods wont fit into the ealy cyl Bores (31/16), You can bore the Fealy ford block 1/8" for late pistoms. The 39-41 99a (Merc) and 99T (truck) are already bored to 3 3/16. You can also install the 49-53 Ford Merc crank in the 37-8 block by turning down the main jeornals and installing a special rear seal.

[John Kennedy]

Does the special rear seal come in a modern one-piece design? Front seal also?
I live in nice, hot Tucson.... boring this block 1/8" going to cool OK? It's slated for a nice long Molasses soaking soon.... then a good crack / pressure check. Only then is it money time!

[kiwitony]

Be very carefull with the molassis soak,sometime back there was a post where the molassis had almost destroyed the block with vast amounts of pitting on the machined surfaces.

[36tbird]

Ol' Ron, you wrote, "...the floating bearings are expensive and hard to set up". What is the "set up" required for these bearings? In the cheapo rebuild of my Craig'slist 59A, I installed a stock 59A crank and rods that came out of another 59A that had only 200 miles on it. As I put everything back together, I just put a coating of white grease on the inside and outside of the rod bearings and bolted everything back together. Is there a special step I missed? I have not torqued the lower end bolts down yet so I could easily get back into it.

PS, just saw the other thread that says Ol' Ron is out of commission for a while. Get well soon.

[John Kennedy]

Originally Posted by kiwitony

Be very carefull with the molassis soak,sometime back there was a post where the molassis had almost destroyed the block with vast amounts of pitting on the machined surfaces.

Did the molasses cause the pitting, or just expose existing pitting?