pulling stock 32 engine

[jimTN]

I have never pulled a 32 engine and ran into fun right away with the radiator mount sticking under the fenders on both sides, is that correct, there were also pads under there also. A hard shift to one side and picking up the other side got it out. I am pulling the engine and trans. as one unit, trans has some bad gears to be replaced. What is the easiest way to line the rear mt in the frame going back in?

[Andy]

The center crossmember has two bosses the trans mount will sit on. The bigest fight is the torque tube. I raise one rear wheel and kick it to rotate the driveshaft.

[DavidG]

With respect, a stock '32 center cross member has no 'ears' that the transmission mount 'will sit on'. Instead it has vertical face that encloses the back of the transmission with the mount attaching in four places on the face of the center cross member. See photos below -- when the system permits.

The pads under the radiator mounting ears belong there. Those ears will often not clear the front fender flanges if the front fenders are attached. As you found, the radiator had to be rotated slightly to clear the fender flanges.

When re-installing the engine it is best to use one of the adjustable threaded rod fixtures with hooks at each end so that you can vary the angle of insertion as required (and it is required, especially if yours is an early car with the taller vertical flange at the rear of the front cross member). Take it real slow.

[jimTN]

Sounds like a floor jack under the trans to hold it at right height. I'm sure it will be fun. Thanks all. It appears some dimwit pulled the rear end and trans by cutting the crossmember and welding it back sometime in the past to avoid puling the engine. This appears to be an early Can. car with single pull hood latches.

[Flatout]

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As DavidG says, there are no "ears" on the crossmember face to support the transmission mount.
But there is a short pin on the crossmember face, on either side that would seem to perform that support function.