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Old 06-06-2020, 07:38 PM   #1
Gene F
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Default Tri-Power acting up

The tri-power has started acting up on my 57 Ford Y-block.

The thing is loading up, and dies soon after you pull up to a stop sign, or a light. Ya have to hold the primary carb open abut 50% to get the thing restarted. I made it home, and heck it idled a little in park, but eventually died. The other 2 carbs are running fine, so it's not a fuel pressure issue. These carbs are different. The primary carb is a normal Holley 94, with a choke. The fore and aft carbs have no idle circuits, power valves, or chokes.

I pushed it in the garage, because I could not keep it running long enough to get it to move more than about one foot. Engine temp is 180.

Raised the hood, and the front carb is leaking. I'm thinking something with the float, need & seat.

It's only a year or so old, so I was having a bit of fun with it before this happend! But still...

Any ideas?
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Old 06-06-2020, 07:57 PM   #2
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

It could very well be the front carb is spilling over (flooding) for what ever reason, or also sounds like a classic case of the power valve in the center carb being ruptured.

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Old 06-06-2020, 08:24 PM   #3
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

Is the front carb just leaking or is gas flowing all over? If flowing then it may be just a stuck needle valve/float. Try lightly tapping on the fuel inlet to see if it stops.
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Old 06-06-2020, 08:36 PM   #4
Gene F
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

I'd replace the power valve, but I have no idea the best choice... You know, just as a preventative item.
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Old 06-07-2020, 10:37 AM   #5
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

Send Charlie ny on this forum a personal message or here is other contact info for him. He has good quality power valves for the Holley 94 type carbs that are machined for a good seal. Comes with a nylon gasket too.

Charlie Schwendler
(716) 662-9159
cas5845@yahoo.com

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Old 06-07-2020, 05:26 PM   #6
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

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3 deuce set ups could be Stromberg 97 or 94 types. A float valve that won't seal or a blown power valve that leaks if its a 94 type will be internal leaks. Fuel pressure is important on the old cars so a lot of hot rodders put a regulator before the fuel block to keep it from being too high. The Holley types can blow a power valve diaphragm pretty easy. The PV numbers would be low for a 3 deuce set up. One of the carbs may not even have one. It just depends on how it was initially set up. Just make sure and match the number up if it needs a power valve or two.
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Old 06-07-2020, 06:22 PM   #7
Gene F
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

I took the front carb air horn off. Blow in it, and operate the float and it seem fine. Of course...makes it hard when ya can see it busted...

I'd like to change the power valve. Might change the needle and set anyways...
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Old 06-08-2020, 09:19 AM   #8
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

What type carbs does it have?
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Old 06-08-2020, 09:40 AM   #9
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene F View Post
The primary carb is a normal Holley 94, with a choke. The fore and aft carbs have no idle circuits, power valves, or chokes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rotorwrench View Post
What type carbs does it have?
He says primary is a Holley, doesn't say what secondaries are, probably Holleys as well.
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Old 06-08-2020, 06:04 PM   #10
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

I wonder if it's the later 2100/2110 type or just the last of the 94 EBG & EBU types. They are all similar but the later ones are a bit larger. This is sort of what they would look like depending on the manifold.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic145474.aspx
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Old 06-09-2020, 07:18 PM   #11
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

They are all Holley 94s. The middle carb is primary all the way. Choke, power valve, accelarator pump.
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Old 06-09-2020, 07:19 PM   #12
Gene F
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

Fuel pressure regulator is before the fuel block. Less than 2 lbs.
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Old 06-09-2020, 08:39 PM   #13
Gene F
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

OK, new development. I took the front carb air horn assembly off, and blew through the line. The float simply must have just got hung. Put it back together and it works fine.

After it sits even one day, no choke, no touch of accelerator ya turn the key and it fires right off. Sounds great right. Nope! It's fine till it gets to 185F on up to 195F . If ya have the car in drive the RPM starts to fall. Eventually it will stall. Then to restart the warm engine you have to hold the primary carb about 1/2 open.

Any ideas?
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Old 06-10-2020, 07:27 AM   #14
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

Had the same problem with my 57 with 3x2's. For that concern I lowered the float level until it didn't flood hot. I spent 3 months getting my setup right. Overhauled all 3 carbs, installed larger jets (engine was built some), used my best 1 1/16 primary base, plugged the secondary power valves, and bought 2 secondary bases from Charlie Price. Ran great when I finally finished. Don't have the 57 and more, I replaced it with a 61 Starliner 406. Being a glutton for punishement it has 3x2's on it also. This one took a bit longer because I had to wait a month for some new throttle shafts.
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Old 06-10-2020, 09:54 AM   #15
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

I haven't done it yet but if I ever get another FE car, I want to try the fuel injection on it.
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Old 06-10-2020, 07:05 PM   #16
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

Quote:
Originally Posted by LOWRIDER View Post
Had the same problem with my 57 with 3x2's. For that concern I lowered the float level until it didn't flood hot. I spent 3 months getting my setup right. Overhauled all 3 carbs, installed larger jets (engine was built some), used my best 1 1/16 primary base, plugged the secondary power valves, and bought 2 secondary bases from Charlie Price. Ran great when I finally finished. Don't have the 57 and more, I replaced it with a 61 Starliner 406. Being a glutton for punishement it has 3x2's on it also. This one took a bit longer because I had to wait a month for some new throttle shafts.
This lowering the primary float sounds like a good idea. It won't cost me anything to try it. What about a phoneolic spacer under the primary carb? Speedway sells em.
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Old 06-11-2020, 07:02 AM   #17
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

I put them on all 3 carbs. Have to watch hood clearance though. Don't ask me how I know.
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Old 06-11-2020, 09:52 AM   #18
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

"This lowering the primary float sounds like a good idea. It won't cost me anything to try it. What about a phoneolic spacer under the primary carb? Speedway sells em."

I thought the issue was with the front carb ? Not the primary carb ?
I wouldn't lower the float more than 1/32" below spec if you decide to do that. If fuel is boiling out of the carb, go for the phenolic spacers instead. Asking for other trouble by lowering the float level (band aid fix).

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Old 06-11-2020, 07:21 PM   #19
Gene F
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

Update. The float was way high. I lover it just a smidge more than 1/4", which is a lot. It is dead on spc right now, but I think I'm gonna try another 1/16th of an inch. Thick gasket... I realize if I get it too low that when I go around a corner the car will die. I realize just how sensative this setting can be.

It will now idle in drive for over 4 1/2 minute and doesn't stall. Quite a difference.

I'm also going to order the phenolic spacer, and see if I can put that under it and still get hood clearance.

Made one heck of a difference! It's pretty close to where I want it now. After I got it heated up, I didn't see the need to take it back apart hot. Tomorrow or Saturday seems like the natural choice.

ONE MORE THING. I want to adjust my primary air-fuel screws. I suspect they are fairly close. Should I use a vacuum gage with full manifold vacuum, or a tachometer? I'd be adjusting it to max (whichever). I have heard that setting the carb up with a vacuum gage is actually better, even though few people do it that way.

When setting air-fuel mixture, do you think there is a big difference between park, and an assistant holding it in drive?
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Old 06-11-2020, 10:03 PM   #20
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Default Re: Tri-Power acting up

You can do it one of three ways. With a vacuum gage for the highest vacuum, with a tach for the highest RPM, or just by ear for the best running. Of course if the speed goes up higher than desired for idle, you need to turn the speed screw by the throttle lever to get the desired idle speed.
If an automatic trans, it's usually best to adjust it with the car in gear.

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