The Ford Barn

Tom Wesenberg · 02-04-2015, 06:09 PM

It's an upside down picture, but it does seem to match the Model A timing picture I've posted.

Charles Coe · 02-04-2015, 07:11 PM

It's hard to tell from Frank's picture but it looks to me like it is off one tooth.

Y-Blockhead · 02-04-2015, 07:31 PM

Franks picture rotated. I'm interested also. Is it timed correctly?

Bob C · 02-04-2015, 08:24 PM

looks like the timing gear dimple lines up with the crank gear tooth
to the right of the keyway like Tom's picture.

Bob

Purdy Swoft · 02-04-2015, 08:26 PM

The picture is very poor. A better view of the keyway slot in the slinger would help . It does appear that it could be off one tooth. If this is truly the case it will have a bad effect on how the engine runs .

FrankWest · 02-04-2015, 08:42 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

The picture is very poor. A better view of the keyway slot in the slinger would help . It does appear that it could be off one tooth. If this is truly the case it will have a bad effect on how the engine runs .

Look at the marked photo.. Yellow highlights index marks on both gears

FrankWest · 02-04-2015, 08:46 PM

Better closeup

FrankWest · 02-04-2015, 08:49 PM

You guys are scaring me. But better to know now before I close it up.
Show I just order a new thrust plunger spring, because I am not able to measure ther tension in my old spring.

FrankWest · 02-04-2015, 08:58 PM

Here is another picture before I cleaned up the particles on the cam gear sell yellow arrows

700rpm · 02-04-2015, 09:01 PM

OK, you're timed properly if the marks in the photo are showing the alignment and timing marks. A new spring is cheap insurance. Go for it. If your crank gear is pitted, as I mentioned before, I think the only adverse effect will be a little noisier engine; it's unlikely it will do any serious damage to the aluminum gear.

Mitch//pa · 02-04-2015, 09:07 PM

yes put in a new spring and plunger.... they are made in the usa... grease the plunger before assembly

OL JENNY · 02-04-2015, 09:12 PM

I just installed Dan's aluminum gear, like Frank I did not want to pull my engine to do the matched set. My engine is noisier, but I have only run the engine not driven the car since we have 12" of snow. Dan advised me it would make more noise without being matched, and to clamp the gear and not stress the teeth when tightening. I cut pieces of 1" X 1/8 steel bar and was able to clamp the gear and torque the modern nut to the full torque.

OL JENNY · 02-04-2015, 09:28 PM

Got it lined up correct

Purdy Swoft · 02-04-2015, 10:08 PM

I still can't be sure by the pictures. Take a close look at Toms picture in post # 33. Notice the relation with the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the key that holds the crank gear. You will mostly have to judge by the keyway slot in the oil slinger on your crankshaft because the oil slinger mostly covers the timing mark on the crankshaft gear. Toms picture clearly shows the timing mark on the drivers side of the key. This is what you will have to go by. If you are on the passengers side of the keyway, you will be one tooth off. You are on your own and you will have to make the desision of whether you are on the right side of the keyway. This is the simplest way that I can say it. If it is off one tootrh , it will still run but won't have full power .

Tom Wesenberg · 02-05-2015, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OL JENNY

Got it lined up correct

WARNING WARNING WARNING

The first thing I noticed in your picture is the worn notch in the oil slinger, and this can only be caused by the slinger not being held tightly in position by the crank pulley. Your picture shows the crank pulley notch is NOT lined up with the keyway. You need to rotate the pulley as you push back until you feel the key engage the pulley notch, then crank it into place by the front bolt/start ratchet.

You must fix this before you do anything else.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 02-05-2015, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OL JENNY

I just installed Dan's aluminum gear, like Frank I did not want to pull my engine to do the matched set. My engine is noisier, but I have only run the engine not driven the car since we have 12" of snow. Dan advised me it would make more noise without being matched, and to clamp the gear and not stress the teeth when tightening. I cut pieces of 1" X 1/8 steel bar and was able to clamp the gear and torque the modern nut to the full torque.

Dave's wife held the crank while he torqued the cam nut to 100 Ft Lbs. (It's easy, it's called gear reduction.)
Bill W.

earbleeder · 02-05-2015, 04:42 PM

This is a very informative thread. Not to change the subject too much,but. How can you take a correct measurement of the cam to crank centerline spacing? I'm going to order a set of dans gears for an engine thats apart ( crank is in but not cam) and want to make sure I don't need the oversized cam gear. The engine is on a stand and I have a cam to put in to get a measurement. any tricks?
Steve

FrankWest · 02-05-2015, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

yes put in a new spring and plunger.... they are made in the usa... grease the plunger before assembly

Thanks...will do!

Bob C · 02-05-2015, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by earbleeder

This is a very informative thread. Not to change the subject too much,but. How can you take a correct measurement of the cam to crank centerline spacing? I'm going to order a set of dans gears for an engine thats apart ( crank is in but not cam) and want to make sure I don't need the oversized cam gear. The engine is on a stand and I have a cam to put in to get a measurement. any tricks?
Steve

Look at Vince's site. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/camcrankposition.htm

Bob

earbleeder · 02-05-2015, 07:43 PM

I understand what the measurements are supposed to be but the problem is how to get an accurate measurement. I measured the crank diameter and the cam flange diameter where I could get venier calipers in a straight line as possible. Divided those diameters in half and subtracted from the total out to out from the crank to cam flange. I got 4.157 but was wondering if there was a more accurate way of doing it. It seems right. maybe I'm overthinking it. I don't want to get a gear set that doesn't fit right (too tight). I guess this should be OK. What do you guys think?

02-04-2015, 07:11 PM	#82
Charles Coe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pace, FL near Pensacola Posts: 374	Re: installing new timing gear It's hard to tell from Frank's picture but it looks to me like it is off one tooth.

02-04-2015, 07:31 PM	#83
Y-Blockhead Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Redondo Beach, CA Posts: 5,848	Re: installing new timing gear Franks picture rotated. I'm interested also. Is it timed correctly?

02-04-2015, 08:24 PM	#84
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,741	Re: installing new timing gear looks like the timing gear dimple lines up with the crank gear tooth to the right of the keyway like Tom's picture. Bob

02-04-2015, 08:26 PM	#85
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: installing new timing gear The picture is very poor. A better view of the keyway slot in the slinger would help . It does appear that it could be off one tooth. If this is truly the case it will have a bad effect on how the engine runs .

02-04-2015, 08:49 PM	#88
FrankWest Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 3,005	Re: installing new timing gear You guys are scaring me. But better to know now before I close it up. Show I just order a new thrust plunger spring, because I am not able to measure ther tension in my old spring.

02-04-2015, 09:01 PM	#90
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,902	Re: installing new timing gear OK, you're timed properly if the marks in the photo are showing the alignment and timing marks. A new spring is cheap insurance. Go for it. If your crank gear is pitted, as I mentioned before, I think the only adverse effect will be a little noisier engine; it's unlikely it will do any serious damage to the aluminum gear. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

02-04-2015, 09:07 PM	#91
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: installing new timing gear yes put in a new spring and plunger.... they are made in the usa... grease the plunger before assembly

02-04-2015, 10:08 PM	#94
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: installing new timing gear I still can't be sure by the pictures. Take a close look at Toms picture in post # 33. Notice the relation with the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the key that holds the crank gear. You will mostly have to judge by the keyway slot in the oil slinger on your crankshaft because the oil slinger mostly covers the timing mark on the crankshaft gear. Toms picture clearly shows the timing mark on the drivers side of the key. This is what you will have to go by. If you are on the passengers side of the keyway, you will be one tooth off. You are on your own and you will have to make the desision of whether you are on the right side of the keyway. This is the simplest way that I can say it. If it is off one tootrh , it will still run but won't have full power .

02-05-2015, 04:42 PM	#97
earbleeder Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: NW Indiana Posts: 119	Re: installing new timing gear This is a very informative thread. Not to change the subject too much,but. How can you take a correct measurement of the cam to crank centerline spacing? I'm going to order a set of dans gears for an engine thats apart ( crank is in but not cam) and want to make sure I don't need the oversized cam gear. The engine is on a stand and I have a cam to put in to get a measurement. any tricks? Steve Last edited by earbleeder; 02-05-2015 at 05:18 PM.

02-05-2015, 07:43 PM	#100
earbleeder Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: NW Indiana Posts: 119	Re: installing new timing gear I understand what the measurements are supposed to be but the problem is how to get an accurate measurement. I measured the crank diameter and the cam flange diameter where I could get venier calipers in a straight line as possible. Divided those diameters in half and subtracted from the total out to out from the crank to cam flange. I got 4.157 but was wondering if there was a more accurate way of doing it. It seems right. maybe I'm overthinking it. I don't want to get a gear set that doesn't fit right (too tight). I guess this should be OK. What do you guys think?