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Old 09-14-2018, 07:20 AM   #1
bigd1101
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Default Thermocure and new water pump

Planning on a flush with Thermocure. Did a vinegar flush and then a few clean water flushes until the water was clear. There was a tad bit of water pump grease in the system from a bad water pump which seems to be gone now. Just doing one last set with Thermocure as most say it's easy on the system. Will it affect the new stock water pump at all?


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Old 09-14-2018, 12:10 PM   #2
30 Closed Cab PU
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Default Re: Thermocure and new water pump

My experience, but have a leakless, used both white vinegar and thermocure treatments, - Had no problems.


Perhaps you already know, but here goes.


If you have original style water pump, insure the packing lead is OK and it is greased before running the engine after vinegar treatment. Ir running the motor with Vinegar it can/will flush out the grease when you run the motor you will have a leak. Ends up all over the motor bay and out the hood (bonnet) louvers.


I did both treatment multiple times.. If doing vinegar took advice and flushed afterwards with Baking soda/water to neutralize the remnants of the vinegar. Left treatments in for weeks at a time and ran the car every day. Suggest putting in a upper hose filter to keep crud out of the radiator and cleaning frequently - before flushing and before back flushing, and after running the A.. I had a really bad case of rust
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Old 09-14-2018, 01:20 PM   #3
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Default Re: Thermocure and new water pump

Most of the rust is always in the block around the rear 2 cylinders. Have seen enough to fill a 2# coffee can when dry, stripped block, turned upside down with head off. That was after flushing. Use a segment if old speedo cable and long screw drivers to loosen up the solid mass. Any cure in a can good enough to clean out the block would destroy a radiator in minutes with rust chunks and could damage the block as well. In either case, when all is said and done a coolant filter in the upper hose should be used because flakes will circulate, looking for a new home. Catch them on the first lap around and before they get to the radiator.
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Old 09-15-2018, 04:11 PM   #4
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Default Re: Thermocure and new water pump

I have a new radiator on order for my '31 and do not want to plugged it up right off the bat from the gunky red rust crap I see after removing the head. I was thinking about some sort of solution to just pour in the water jackets and let it soak,like the beet juice or acetone and automatic trans fluid,obviousy stuff like Kroil would cost hundreds. I may try the vinegar flush,whatever I use I want to not harm the engine.
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Old 09-15-2018, 07:03 PM   #5
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Default Re: Thermocure and new water pump

See preceding posts. If head is on, some hook a pump (sump pump, or similar) in a bucket/container, hook up hoses and circulate. Thermocure, rust911 and evaporust affect rust/scale only, safe on seals/gaskets and do not etch metal.


White vinegar and other acidic treatments are more aggressive and if overused may cause damage to seals/gaskets and slightly etch metal, if it gets on paint it damages paint and other finishes on metals. If your A is not a sealed water pump, it will dissolve the grease and cause the pump to leak. Acidic solutions - you should flush or let sit a treatment of water/baking soda to neutralize the acidity as a last treatment.




As above, especially with a new radiator, you should run an upper hose coolant filter at least until you are comfortable your cooling system is clean. Some use a nylon stocking on the head coolant outlet neck inside the upper hose. There are also commercial filters available if you plan on running a filter permanently. Check often to insure the filter does not get plugged.


Thermocure and evaporust turns extremely black, which indicates it is no longer good/used up. Thermocure/Evaporust seems to dissolve the rust and/or turn it into fine particles. Not sure about rust911, but some swear by it that it is great stuff.
My feeling is that you get more rust flakes and larger particles when you flush backflush after white vinegar, than the other 3.
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Old 09-16-2018, 07:05 AM   #6
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Default Re: Thermocure and new water pump

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Would like to find and buy some sort of cheap transfer pump to try to flush engine a bit while radiator is not installed yet.I know warm or hot flowing rust remover would be better but would like to try flushing block the way it sits now installing head back on.
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Old 09-16-2018, 07:57 AM   #7
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Default Re: Thermocure and new water pump

I have not done it this way so other than an old sump pump am not aware of another way. You could try searching on the Barn for other suggestions.


To be on the safe side, most recommend removing the Water Pump and sealing off the opening .
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Old 09-16-2018, 08:25 AM   #8
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Default Re: Thermocure and new water pump

The water pump is off but I have other ones I could put back on or seal the opening someway,put the head back on with the old gasket and just get some kind of flowing action going. Some small transfer pumps on Ebay and couple cheap swimming pool pumps.
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Old 09-16-2018, 08:48 AM   #9
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Default Re: Thermocure and new water pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by 37 Coupe View Post
The water pump is off but I have other ones I could put back on or seal the opening someway,put the head back on with the old gasket and just get some kind of flowing action going. Some small transfer pumps on Ebay and couple cheap swimming pool pumps.
Make sure that what ever you get can pump good volume, and provide enough pressure. That is why sump pumps are a good idea. If enough pressure they are also great for flushing/backflushing blocks. More pressure than garden hose pressure. But do have to be careful with radiators, too much pressure can damage radiators.
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Old 09-16-2018, 09:11 AM   #10
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Default Re: Thermocure and new water pump

Would like to clarify previous post.


If you want a pump just to circulate, an inexpensive pump is fine.


If you also want a pump that does a pressurized flush/back flush, opt for a pedestal or high volume sump pump.


Your choice.
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Old 09-16-2018, 10:38 AM   #11
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Default Re: Thermocure and new water pump

Sorry if being repetitive. When ready to run, use an upper hose filter. Here are a few examples. If you Google Coolant Filter, may find more. May have missed recommendations from others on the Barn. Google each commercial type with "review" to see other's opinions. Just be sure to check the filter often. If leaving it in and being lazy for a combined radiator/block flush and backflush, clean the filter before every flush, and before every back flush.


Panty Hose - install in hose closet to Head. Cheap, does a good job even on fine particles. . Downside have to remove hose and drain some coolant to check frequently.


Dryer screen inserted in hose - cheap, must take hose off for cleaning/inspection. Again have to partially drain coolant


Various fine screen material inserted in the hose including strainer materials in Walmart Kitchen wares. Must take hose off for cleaning/inspection. Again have to partially drain coolant


Homemade and handy is limited only by your and other's imaginations.






Tefba Coolant filters - Most expensive choice I see. Install close to radiator, cut hose to install inline, has cap for inspection and filter removal cleaning. No/or very small loss of coolant when inspecting/cleaning. I am trying this one soon. May rig up some type of a clear cap for viewing.
https://www.tefbafilters.com/


Gano Coolant Filters
Cut Hose to install inline, can be ordered in clear material for easy inspection of the filter, and allow viewing of coolant flow. The design also traps most of what it filter to prevent stuff from falling back into the block. May be a little more difficult to clean I believe it has to be disconnected to clean it out. Not the most expensive, but not cheap. Seen a lot of barn members happy with it.

http://www.ganofilters.com/
Here is a barn string that in addition mentions a Caterpillar filter along with the Gano filter.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...coolant+filter




Champion - seen it mentioned on the barn, Inline, clear window for inspection, filters can be cleaned, expensive, personally not familiar with them. Again have to partially drain coolant. Not the most expensive, but not cheap.
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