The Ford Barn

bigd1101 · 09-13-2018, 11:44 AM

Bought a stock pump. Will grease the two zirk fittings as per instructions. Will I need to do anything to the large brass nut casing that holds the packing in place on the shaft? Does that need any grease???
Here is the one I bought. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/water-pump-1063

Sorry about all the questions being new to the Model A. Thanks!

Don

Tacoma Bob · 09-13-2018, 12:46 PM

Packing only I would think and do grease every 500 but don't overdo it.

bigd1101 · 09-13-2018, 12:59 PM

Yes......that seems to be the consensus......just grease the two ends, the one in the block with marine waterproof and the other with regular grease. Like I said, I'm doing this BEFORE I mount the pump making sure any grease doesn't ooze out and into the water jacket. It took me a few flushes of hot water to rid the system of greasy residue as someone before me had over done the water pump lube.

Synchro909 · 09-13-2018, 06:20 PM

You can reduce the amount of grease getting into the cooling system by loosening the packing nut and poulling the packing forward before applying the grease. Most of the grease will come forward so stop when you see it. Very little will go back into the coolant but the bush will be greased.This works very well with "leakless" pumps fitted with the synthetic seal at the back.

redmodelt · 09-13-2018, 07:03 PM

Suggestion, don't start a new topic if you are just adding info. When you add info it will come back to the top and the people looking to help will see it as unread.

Looks like you got the help you were looking for.

Mike V. Florida · 09-13-2018, 10:29 PM

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With new parts I use a light coat of grease on the packing nut and packing. Even the leakless pump parts get a little grease when assembling.

w.michael · 09-13-2018, 11:25 PM

I just installed this same pump on my '31 after my leakless pump started leaking. As you suggested, I greased both ends BEFORE I installed it, so I could see when the grease started to come out. I did not have to do anything to the packing nut. It did not need tightening, and did not drip at all.

My thought process is, when the original style pump starts to leak, just add some packing. When the "leakless" pump starts to leak, there is no way to fix it except to disassemble it. Also, I can't tell what kind or brand of leakless pump I have. Daddy put it on the car 12 or more years ago, and I have no way to identify it while on the car. So, again, can only disassemble it to see what I have, then order parts.

The new "original style" pump has been on my car for about one month. Only about 300 miles, but no problems yet.

W. Michael

bigd1101 · 09-14-2018, 05:41 AM

Got the pump last night. The packing brass nut was loose. How tight does it have to be? I know they sell a wrench to do that, but is "finger tight" good enough? That keeps the packing and water/coolant from leaking into the opening in the pump, correct?

Synchro909 · 09-14-2018, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigd1101

Got the pump last night. The packing brass nut was loose. How tight does it have to be? I know they sell a wrench to do that, but is "finger tight" good enough? That keeps the packing and water/coolant from leaking into the opening in the pump, correct?

The nut compresses packing behind it causing it to seal on the shaft. Tighten the nut just enough to stop any leak. Beofore you go anywhere, undo the nut and pull it forward, then gease the packing before doing it up. A special tool is not required. The nut will be tighter than you can get with your fingers. All the pressure you want can be easily applied by using a screw driver in the slots and the body of the pump. Do that from the RHS of the car. Hook the srew driver blade in the slot so the handle is higher and push down on it to tighten the nut. Hope I explained that clearly enough!

bigd1101 · 09-14-2018, 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synchro909

The nut compresses packing behind it causing it to seal on the shaft. Tighten the nut just enough to stop any leak. Beofore you go anywhere, undo the nut and pull it forward, then gease the packing before doing it up. A special tool is not required. The nut will be tighter than you can get with your fingers. All the pressure you want can be easily applied by using a screw driver in the slots and the body of the pump. Do that from the RHS of the car. Hook the srew driver blade in the slot so the handle is higher and push down on it to tighten the nut. Hope I explained that clearly enough!

Yep! Thanks!

100IH · 09-14-2018, 02:10 PM

When you grease the rear fitting, the grease goes through the brass fitting to the shaft. So now the shaft surface and the inside of the bushing where the friction is .Another pump of the grease gun will force the grease both forward to the packing nut and rearward to the coolant in the head where you don't want it. So grease sparingly. When water drips at the packing, only the slightest snug is needed, not time for replacing or adding packing. Good to grease packing when rebuilding though. It is possible to add a grease seal at the rear of the brass bushing to keep grease out of the coolant.

09-13-2018, 11:44 AM	#1
bigd1101 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Ithaca Posts: 345	New water pump question Bought a stock pump. Will grease the two zirk fittings as per instructions. Will I need to do anything to the large brass nut casing that holds the packing in place on the shaft? Does that need any grease??? Here is the one I bought. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/water-pump-1063 Sorry about all the questions being new to the Model A. Thanks! Don

09-13-2018, 12:46 PM	#2
Tacoma Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 1,025	Re: New water pump question Packing only I would think and do grease every 500 but don't overdo it.

09-13-2018, 12:59 PM	#3
bigd1101 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Ithaca Posts: 345	Re: New water pump question Yes......that seems to be the consensus......just grease the two ends, the one in the block with marine waterproof and the other with regular grease. Like I said, I'm doing this BEFORE I mount the pump making sure any grease doesn't ooze out and into the water jacket. It took me a few flushes of hot water to rid the system of greasy residue as someone before me had over done the water pump lube.

09-13-2018, 06:20 PM	#4
Synchro909 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 7,496	Re: New water pump question You can reduce the amount of grease getting into the cooling system by loosening the packing nut and poulling the packing forward before applying the grease. Most of the grease will come forward so stop when you see it. Very little will go back into the coolant but the bush will be greased.This works very well with "leakless" pumps fitted with the synthetic seal at the back. __________________ I'm part of the only ever generation with an analogue childhood and a digital adulthood.

09-13-2018, 07:03 PM	#5
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,340	Re: New water pump question Suggestion, don't start a new topic if you are just adding info. When you add info it will come back to the top and the people looking to help will see it as unread. Looks like you got the help you were looking for. __________________ I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!

09-13-2018, 10:29 PM	#6
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: New water pump question Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) With new parts I use a light coat of grease on the packing nut and packing. Even the leakless pump parts get a little grease when assembling. __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

09-13-2018, 11:25 PM	#7
w.michael Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 418	Re: New water pump question I just installed this same pump on my '31 after my leakless pump started leaking. As you suggested, I greased both ends BEFORE I installed it, so I could see when the grease started to come out. I did not have to do anything to the packing nut. It did not need tightening, and did not drip at all. My thought process is, when the original style pump starts to leak, just add some packing. When the "leakless" pump starts to leak, there is no way to fix it except to disassemble it. Also, I can't tell what kind or brand of leakless pump I have. Daddy put it on the car 12 or more years ago, and I have no way to identify it while on the car. So, again, can only disassemble it to see what I have, then order parts. The new "original style" pump has been on my car for about one month. Only about 300 miles, but no problems yet. W. Michael

09-14-2018, 05:41 AM	#8
bigd1101 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Ithaca Posts: 345	Re: New water pump question Got the pump last night. The packing brass nut was loose. How tight does it have to be? I know they sell a wrench to do that, but is "finger tight" good enough? That keeps the packing and water/coolant from leaking into the opening in the pump, correct?

09-14-2018, 02:10 PM	#11
100IH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: SW Idaho Posts: 970	Re: New water pump question When you grease the rear fitting, the grease goes through the brass fitting to the shaft. So now the shaft surface and the inside of the bushing where the friction is .Another pump of the grease gun will force the grease both forward to the packing nut and rearward to the coolant in the head where you don't want it. So grease sparingly. When water drips at the packing, only the slightest snug is needed, not time for replacing or adding packing. Good to grease packing when rebuilding though. It is possible to add a grease seal at the rear of the brass bushing to keep grease out of the coolant.