Drilling for oil, 95% filtration system

[russcc]

Need some help with dimensions and reference points for drilling a 59L for a 95% filtration system using a remote spin off oil filter. I have the diagrams, see photos, but no dimensions. What I would like is;
1. The aprox. location of the vertical return hole on the bell housing hump flat spot, and the aprox. depth of that hole.
2. Also, the depth of the hole for blind hole set screw, or (the Limey Grub Screw). Thank you Fordbarners.

[cas3]

if you look in the back of the bell, you can see the oil line bumps in the casting. and the round pad on top is where to drill. some just tap threads in the oil line and use a threaded screw to block the passage, not a set screw from the outside. either will work.

[Ronnie]

Here u go post#1
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65894

R

[JSeery]

I think it would be difficult to attempt depending on measurements for this modification. You are much better off using a probe to locate visually where things are. Placing a rod horizontally through the oil passage will provide a visual aid as to where to drill. You will need good quality drill bits and taps. And you will need a good drill ! Drilling cast iron can be difficult.

[donald1950]

even if your block does not have the bump, you can use a piece of rod stock in the hole and use the length of the rod outside the block to sight a straight line on the block to locate the passage way. i had a 50 block that was done and the guy said that was easy to locate and establish the location for the new hole doing that....

[RalphM]

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If you make a drill jig like the one in Ol Ron’s book, there is no guess work! I will see if I can find mine and take a picture. The first one I did without it, an 8BA, I drilled them a little too close to each other. It didn’t hurt anything, but if you’re going to install AN fittings it may be hard to get a wrench between them. I ended up using hose barbs which were not a problem.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by RalphM

If you make a drill jig like the one in Ol Ron’s book, there is no guess work!

There really shouldn't be any guess work doing it with a probe. The whole idea is to provide a visual aid so you don't have to guess.

[RalphM]

Here is the jig I made, based on Ron’s design.

[JSeery]

Ralph would you mind explaining how that works, I can't see it. The drill bit appears to be perpendicular to the welded on bolt. Is the piece twisted at an angle to locate the new hole that is drilled? If so, how did you determine it's position?

[RalphM]

The Cut down bolt goes in the oil passage it has a notch at the end of it,
the square block has a hole for the drill bit which goes all the way to the notch so that the hole is centered on the passage. Bit will not go all the way through oil passage because it hits the bolt. The welded on bracket is to bolt to the block to steady the jig while drilling.
Position was determined by aligning block with existing hole.

[russcc]

Thank you all for your help. I looked thru Ron's Nostalgia book and could not find any reference to a drill jig. What page was that on. I set up the block in the Bridgeport to drill the new angled return hole. Will post a photo The idea of aligning the angle of that hole with a straight rod worked well. I put a rod in the drill chuck and was able to eyeball where I wanted it to go, and adjust the head on the Bridgeport.

[steve hackel]

So many people refer to "Rons" book? Where does one buy this publication.... ?

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by RalphM

The Cut down bolt goes in the oil passage it has a notch at the end of it,
the square block has a hole for the drill bit which goes all the way to the notch so that the hole is centered on the passage. Bit will not go all the way through oil passage because it hits the bolt. The welded on bracket is to bolt to the block to steady the jig while drilling.
Position was determined by aligning block with existing hole.

Man I'm confused. The hole that is drilled is at an angle, maybe 30 degs, the jig looks like it is perpendicular to the horizontal oil passage. That would be totally wrong. Guess I just don't see what this is for.

[GOSFAST]

It's not all that difficult to do but it sure helps to have some of the correct equipment to get it done easily/safely??

The 2 holes drilled straight down are best done in a Bridgeport, or at least on a decent drill press?

The problem with the drill press is the speed-control, most don't go slow enough to get some good holes.

You do need some type fixture to drill the lateral hole, this one (where the set screw ends up) can't be done on either the Bridgeport or the drill press. And it's difficult drilling into cast neatly with any hand drills! You just can't control the drill correctly by hand.

I'll place a few shots below here showing the finished vertical holes (done on the Bridgeport) and the fixture for the lateral one. I only have the shot of the tool for the 8BA handy, the one for the earlier blocks is different in the mounting!

(Add) Placed one more shot below of the setup mounted in my friend's '50 Merc, shows the hoses and the remote filter mtd on the firewall.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. When we do this mod we give the customer the option of the finished holes with either an NPT thread or an NPS thread which would use washers on the adapters. The photos here show the pipe thread setup!

[rotorwrench]

It might tilt a bit after the guide rod is inserted. A person can spot face the pad a bit flatter after drilling and before putting a tap to it if the angle isn't just right. The bore is long enough to get a bit of angle on it but the jig would have to be set up that way.

I don't do much NPT work on cast iron since most of my stuff is aluminum case applications. It can be kind of tricky at times. I taper the bore with a modified tapered reamer before I cut the threads. It makes a much cleaner tap job. I've even put NPT tapered heli coils in some worn engine cases where the fittings got loose & started working (aircraft engines).

[cas3]

steve h , i believe rons book can be bought from mac vp

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I don't do much NPT work on cast iron since most of my stuff is aluminum case applications. It can be kind of tricky at times. I taper the bore with a modified tapered reamer before I cut the threads. It makes a much cleaner tap job. I've even put NPT tapered heli coils in some worn engine cases where the fittings got loose & started working (aircraft engines).

Next time you drill & tap aluminum try an "interrupted-thread" tap, you'll never use another conventional tap on aluminum after that.

Also won't need to "taper" the holes, these taps cut like butter with the correct size holes.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a side-by-side shot showing the different appearance between the two type threads! Look very different but make the same threads!

[JSeery]

Ok, I see you ARE using a perpendicular hole to the oil passage! I have always drilled them perpendicular to the pad as the original was. Learned something new, but I prefer the other setup myself.

[RalphM]

My screw up! It was mentioned in RON’s book, but the drill jig is in JWL’s book, page 134..
Sorry for the mistake John. I keep both these books handy, but my crappy memory tends to intermingle them at times.

[Talkwrench]

I did it all by hand. here's a pic for your hole reference, just convert the MM to inches