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Old 02-18-2018, 10:20 AM   #1
fts1966
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Default front cross member

The front cross member on our car is in very bad shape. lots of welding on top of welding and cracks all over from side to side. also the front mount area were the engine floats on the springs is all broken and in very bad shape.

I want to buy a new one and install it in the car. were is a good location or supplier to purchase them from?
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Old 02-18-2018, 10:22 AM   #2
jrelliott
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Try Bert's in Denver or Arizona Model A's in Gilbert, AZ they may have one.
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:52 AM   #3
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If you get one from a private party be sure it's for a 30-31.

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Old 02-18-2018, 12:04 PM   #4
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The 30-31's have Recessed Radiator Mounting Pads. Try to get an original piece as they are easily had, I see them all over the place.

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Old 02-18-2018, 01:50 PM   #5
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Read up here back threads on riveting, that sounds like a pain :-(
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Old 02-18-2018, 04:09 PM   #6
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It is best to find an original cross member. The repos do not always fit very well. Bert's should have one.
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Old 02-18-2018, 11:09 PM   #7
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Bert's, like mention above, is a good option. I have replaced both of my members and have bolted them back in. So far no problem. But mine are drivers and I did not want to do the rivet thing. Also you may find a good one on EBay. I bought one on Ebay and it was good but check it out good.
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Old 02-19-2018, 03:11 PM   #8
Purdy Swoft
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Try A's and more in west Stafford springs Connecticut 06076 . I have had good results finding parts there that I had problems finding elswhere . Good luck .

Last edited by Purdy Swoft; 02-19-2018 at 03:15 PM. Reason: added zip code
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Old 02-19-2018, 03:18 PM   #9
Charlie Stephens
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Remember that a lot of the reproduction ones were built for street rodders and don't look correct for a restored car.

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Old 02-19-2018, 04:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big hammer View Post
Read up here back threads on riveting, that sounds like a pain :-(
It's really not that bad if you have somebody to help by holding a bucking bar for you. Besides, you'll have a lot of satisfaction and maybe learn a new skill! It's tempting to use bolts, but don't.
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:41 PM   #11
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I used countersunk grade five machine bolts with hex internal drive on the top rails and high shear aircraft bolts with AN fiber lock nuts on the sides. This was with a NOS front crossmember. I hope it holds up. We'll see. I don't have any friends so there was no one to buck the rivets for me.
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:45 AM   #12
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It is my understanding that when using bolts there is always slight movement whereas with rivets there is no movement since if installed correctly the rivet swells inside the holes to fill it completely. I don't know if it is that critical the way we drive our A's today but back in the day it would surely make a difference.

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Old 02-21-2018, 10:45 AM   #13
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It is my understanding that when using bolts there is always slight movement whereas with rivets there is no movement since if installed correctly the rivet swells inside the holes to fill it completely. I don't know if it is that critical the way we drive our A's today but back in the day it would surely make a difference.

TerryO
Agreed, although with the amount of bolts the crossmember has im not concerned that it can even move.

I used grade 8 bolts on my AA and used the flathead hex drive metric bolts (fit tighter) for the top 6 rivet locations. Coated everything in POR-15 and once fenders are on noone will see it.
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