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02-18-2018, 10:20 AM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: kansas city mo
Posts: 34
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front cross member
The front cross member on our car is in very bad shape. lots of welding on top of welding and cracks all over from side to side. also the front mount area were the engine floats on the springs is all broken and in very bad shape.
I want to buy a new one and install it in the car. were is a good location or supplier to purchase them from? |
02-18-2018, 10:22 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 794
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Re: front cross member
Try Bert's in Denver or Arizona Model A's in Gilbert, AZ they may have one.
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02-18-2018, 11:52 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 8,747
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Re: front cross member
If you get one from a private party be sure it's for a 30-31.
Bob |
02-18-2018, 12:04 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: SoCal Desert
Posts: 826
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Re: front cross member
The 30-31's have Recessed Radiator Mounting Pads. Try to get an original piece as they are easily had, I see them all over the place.
Regards Bill |
02-18-2018, 01:50 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,129
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Re: front cross member
Read up here back threads on riveting, that sounds like a pain :-(
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Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap get a bigger hammer tap done |
02-18-2018, 04:09 PM | #6 |
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Re: front cross member
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02-18-2018, 11:09 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
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Re: front cross member
Bert's, like mention above, is a good option. I have replaced both of my members and have bolted them back in. So far no problem. But mine are drivers and I did not want to do the rivet thing. Also you may find a good one on EBay. I bought one on Ebay and it was good but check it out good.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
02-19-2018, 03:11 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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Re: front cross member
Try A's and more in west Stafford springs Connecticut 06076 . I have had good results finding parts there that I had problems finding elswhere . Good luck .
Last edited by Purdy Swoft; 02-19-2018 at 03:15 PM. Reason: added zip code |
02-19-2018, 03:18 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,031
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Re: front cross member
Remember that a lot of the reproduction ones were built for street rodders and don't look correct for a restored car.
Charlie Stephens |
02-19-2018, 04:01 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 702
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Re: front cross member
It's really not that bad if you have somebody to help by holding a bucking bar for you. Besides, you'll have a lot of satisfaction and maybe learn a new skill! It's tempting to use bolts, but don't.
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02-20-2018, 10:41 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ophelia,Va.
Posts: 219
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Re: front cross member
I used countersunk grade five machine bolts with hex internal drive on the top rails and high shear aircraft bolts with AN fiber lock nuts on the sides. This was with a NOS front crossmember. I hope it holds up. We'll see. I don't have any friends so there was no one to buck the rivets for me.
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02-21-2018, 09:45 AM | #12 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: N. GA
Posts: 531
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Re: front cross member
It is my understanding that when using bolts there is always slight movement whereas with rivets there is no movement since if installed correctly the rivet swells inside the holes to fill it completely. I don't know if it is that critical the way we drive our A's today but back in the day it would surely make a difference.
TerryO |
02-21-2018, 10:45 AM | #13 | |
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Location: Central, IL
Posts: 3,968
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Re: front cross member
Quote:
I used grade 8 bolts on my AA and used the flathead hex drive metric bolts (fit tighter) for the top 6 rivet locations. Coated everything in POR-15 and once fenders are on noone will see it.
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