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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
Posts: 3,828
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No, sorry, I have no pictures of main caps. I don't have a C69A apart at this time. As I said in an earlier post, i always fit studs in those blocks anyway.
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Unfortunately, two half wits don't make a whole wit! |
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,855
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I;m not that smart. I think Bill Barth told me that. I saw him doing that to a SBC. Also JWL does it aswell. There are allot of smartpeople out there and I just pass it along.
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#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,052
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Just a tip, forget using any bolts, put in a stud kit and be done>
All our builds nowadays get main studs, we put the kits together in-house using all ARP fasteners! They use .125" thick flat-washers under each nut. We spot-face the original registers on the main cap for a fresh surface! Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. Here's a shot of one laid out with the studs, the nice part about the studs we use they can be adjusted in or out up to a .625" or so as needed! The other shot is one with main cap straps included, these studs are just a bit longer O/A however!
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#24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 850
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Stopped by the machinist this morning. The Speedway/ARP bolts are about 1/4" too long. Also the shoulder just under the head which is a larger dia than the shank interferes slightly with the bore in the cap. The orig bolts have a much larger head and appear to be in good shape, so I'm sticking with them. Lock washers were originally used, but I'll swap out those with the flat washers that came with the new bolts. I'll call Speedway next week to see if they can explain what the issue is.
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#25 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: harpursville ny
Posts: 1,040
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#26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 850
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