The Ford Barn

Grampy · 05-08-2010, 11:45 PM

Hi All,

Due to some issues with the engine quitting while driving, I’ve performed a great many diagnostic tests and procedures. I’ve finally gotten to the point where I suspect a fuel flow problem and decided to vacuum the tank.
Holy cow! This has got to be the problem. I’ve got so much rust particles coming out that I think the car will weigh about 20 or 30 pounds less than before; and that’s just the center section.
Which leads me to ask two questions:
(1) How are the baffles laid out in the gas tank and
(2) how can I get to the side sections to clean them out?
I appreciate your help, Thank You.

Tom Wesenberg · 05-09-2010, 12:25 AM

You're lucky the gas fumes going through the vaccum cleaner didn't explode. I would keep running gas through the tank into a cloth over a bucket, then dump the filtered gas back into the tank. Rock the car from side to side to try to stir up most of the crud and flush it out. Keep recycling the gas like this until it comes out fairly clean. Then install a small stand up filter into the shutoff valve. Drain the sediment bulb as needed.

Rowdy · 05-09-2010, 12:25 AM

Brent has posted a sure fire method of derusting the tank. I have not seen him here yet, but might e-mail him for pic's. With the archives temporarily closed I can not direct you in any direction. I just finished one tank with the POR-15 tank cleaner and sealer. It seems ok. The tank must be off for this and Brent's method. Also someone posted pic's of the dirtyleg. If you don't want to remove the tank this will get the rust chunks out, but not really clean up the advancing rust in the future. Rod

Still need a firewall for this tank

Craig Lewis · 05-09-2010, 01:30 AM

This cut 30-31 tank is a photo from either Vince or Brent
(sorry I can't be more accurate with the source)
Maybe it'll help in your cleaning endevours.

Mike V. Florida · 05-09-2010, 02:16 AM

The baffles are vertical on either side of center. The only absolute way is to cut open the tank, blast it, weld it back and seal it.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 05-09-2010, 07:45 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rowdy

Brent has posted a sure fire method of derusting the tank. I have not seen him here yet, but might e-mail him for pic's.

Sorry, ...I've been away for a few days hangin' out with Bill Sturm, Bill Stipe, Doc Kalinka, and a few other pretty cool folks up north!

Grampy, hopefully this is what you are looking for....

Kevin in NJ · 05-09-2010, 08:22 AM

There are many ways of handling the problem. Here is one that fixes the problem over time.

The problem will typically be the car when first started and moved will stop running in a blocks distance. You have to blow back on the fuel line to get the line clear. Then as long as the car is vibrating it keeps running. When you stop for a while, the rust settles into the drain depression and clogs the inlet.

You can flush something through the tank rocking the car a lot to get the stuff moving around. One my fordor I put in a couple of gallons of gas and a ball valve on the bottom of the tank. Others have used less flammable liquids, whatever you are comfortable with using. After a few flushes, filtering the junk out of the gas each time you find most of the big stuff is cleared.

Then cut a short section of 1/4" pipe and insert it into the original valve. This will keep the junk from settling into the valve when you stop. As you drive the small stuff will come through and get caught by the original filters that Ford put in the system. You just have to clean the filter bowl.

After a while you will find very little being caught in the filter bowl. Then you take the valve out and remove the pipe. You no longer have crud in the tank that will cause you problems.

Grampy · 05-09-2010, 11:23 AM

That was exactly the information I was looking for! Brent’s pictures really nailed the question. It looks like I was on an impossible mission to get the sides of the 30 tank.
I was trying to avoid taking the tank out of the car, but, to do the job right, it looks like I’ll be doing that. I know opening the tank, cleaning it and welding it would be the best approach, but I’m not in a position to do that, so I’m going to go with the POR-15. I’ve used some of their other products with great satisfaction so I suspect this will be just as successful.

I’ll start with Tom and Kevin’s plan, then the weekend after next, I’ll pull the tank out and go on that adventure.

Thanks again, everyone!

05-08-2010, 11:45 PM	#1
Grampy Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 61	It's got to be the rust . . . Hi All, Due to some issues with the engine quitting while driving, I’ve performed a great many diagnostic tests and procedures. I’ve finally gotten to the point where I suspect a fuel flow problem and decided to vacuum the tank. Holy cow! This has got to be the problem. I’ve got so much rust particles coming out that I think the car will weigh about 20 or 30 pounds less than before; and that’s just the center section. Which leads me to ask two questions: (1) How are the baffles laid out in the gas tank and (2) how can I get to the side sections to clean them out? I appreciate your help, Thank You.

05-09-2010, 12:25 AM	#2
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: It's got to be the rust . . . You're lucky the gas fumes going through the vaccum cleaner didn't explode. I would keep running gas through the tank into a cloth over a bucket, then dump the filtered gas back into the tank. Rock the car from side to side to try to stir up most of the crud and flush it out. Keep recycling the gas like this until it comes out fairly clean. Then install a small stand up filter into the shutoff valve. Drain the sediment bulb as needed.

05-09-2010, 12:25 AM	#3
Rowdy BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gothenburg Nebraska Just off I-80 Posts: 4,893	Re: It's got to be the rust . . . Brent has posted a sure fire method of derusting the tank. I have not seen him here yet, but might e-mail him for pic's. With the archives temporarily closed I can not direct you in any direction. I just finished one tank with the POR-15 tank cleaner and sealer. It seems ok. The tank must be off for this and Brent's method. Also someone posted pic's of the dirtyleg. If you don't want to remove the tank this will get the rust chunks out, but not really clean up the advancing rust in the future. Rod Still need a firewall for this tank

05-09-2010, 01:30 AM	#4
Craig Lewis Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Parksville B.C. Canada Posts: 880	Re: It's got to be the rust . . . This cut 30-31 tank is a photo from either Vince or Brent (sorry I can't be more accurate with the source) Maybe it'll help in your cleaning endevours.

05-09-2010, 02:16 AM	#5
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: It's got to be the rust . . . The baffles are vertical on either side of center. The only absolute way is to cut open the tank, blast it, weld it back and seal it. __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

05-09-2010, 08:22 AM	#7
Kevin in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South East NJ Posts: 3,398	Re: It's got to be the rust . . . There are many ways of handling the problem. Here is one that fixes the problem over time. The problem will typically be the car when first started and moved will stop running in a blocks distance. You have to blow back on the fuel line to get the line clear. Then as long as the car is vibrating it keeps running. When you stop for a while, the rust settles into the drain depression and clogs the inlet. You can flush something through the tank rocking the car a lot to get the stuff moving around. One my fordor I put in a couple of gallons of gas and a ball valve on the bottom of the tank. Others have used less flammable liquids, whatever you are comfortable with using. After a few flushes, filtering the junk out of the gas each time you find most of the big stuff is cleared. Then cut a short section of 1/4" pipe and insert it into the original valve. This will keep the junk from settling into the valve when you stop. As you drive the small stuff will come through and get caught by the original filters that Ford put in the system. You just have to clean the filter bowl. After a while you will find very little being caught in the filter bowl. Then you take the valve out and remove the pipe. You no longer have crud in the tank that will cause you problems.

05-09-2010, 11:23 AM	#8
Grampy Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 61	Re: Thanks for the help and the information That was exactly the information I was looking for! Brent’s pictures really nailed the question. It looks like I was on an impossible mission to get the sides of the 30 tank. I was trying to avoid taking the tank out of the car, but, to do the job right, it looks like I’ll be doing that. I know opening the tank, cleaning it and welding it would be the best approach, but I’m not in a position to do that, so I’m going to go with the POR-15. I’ve used some of their other products with great satisfaction so I suspect this will be just as successful. I’ll start with Tom and Kevin’s plan, then the weekend after next, I’ll pull the tank out and go on that adventure. Thanks again, everyone!